OK, so a Crane box is the best setup, and no V6 module or do I still need the V6 module with the crane box?...Index the rotor? not sure what that means...Panther, yes I knew about that rear bench seat issue, but it didn't scare me..I have had that rear bench removed many times..this is the 3rd motor in this boat since I bought it 7 years ago..plus, I had a little issue with my idler pully on the fuel pump and getting to that pump is a bear with the seat still there.I can cut a pocket in the rear bench seat & I don't think you would hardly notice it from the front. I also thought about moving the whole bench forward about 1", but not sure if I want to do that or not..I do not use those engine trays, gets in the way of showing off my motor!..I am also installing new headers..CMI's..uni-tops...should be a coooool sleeper when i'm all done..I p/u the blower next week & then I will need to wait until 2nd week of March to go get my boat out of the water & pull it to my shop..I am thinking the upgrade will take me a couple weekends start to finish.. btw, thanks for all the input guys!

I had to do the same thing on my scarab:eek: it was still tuff putting it in

See rotor Phasing in the attached PDF.

http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/90006462b.pdf

You really need a bigger fuel pump! My stock pumps were fine to 5000 rpm then pressure dropped to nothing.

Holy smokes! reading that PDF is like trying to read german...I am not that smart on the ignition system guys..so do I need the V6 module & an ignition box..or just one or the other..I am keeping the Thund V dist..I bought new cap and rotor and will buy new coil and plug wires..still not sure about the box or V6 module though...the guys at Competition Marine say use it (V6 module)so Iwill & just keep the Merc system in tact, which is what they suggest....I also am trying to keep the cost to a minimum...I plan on some kind of fuel pump upgrade..hopefully it is just a bolt on system to my current pump..again..I am only running 4.5psi boost & don't plan on running the RPM's over 5200 or so..I want a very reliable engine...

Leave the blower off. :)


You just need a V6 module to replace your V8 module. That's all as far as the igntion part. As mentioned earlier, ideally set timing at full advance, not at idle rpm.
The Merc ignition has proven itself to be very reliable.

Worth reading.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...ight=B%26M+250

I gues I should have typed "very reliable blower motor"..you guys are terrible! lol thanks for all the help. RLW, that was good reading, thanks...I think i have my bearings now, should be a snap!..yeah right!

In all fairness, my motor was as reliable as a non blower motor once i got the carb straighened out. The carb is the make or break thing on blower setups in my opinion. Mine just took along time and 3 different carb guys to dial in. With the boost and rpm you have set forth, you'll be fine, plus a good base motor to start with. B&M (now owned by Holley) use to spec that you replace the stock head gaskets with better ones. Haven't been following blower motors since I sold mine. I used Felpro and never had any issues. My motor originally was a 'bolt-on' blower package that ran 200 hrs witih no problem by previous owner. I had the heads bowl blended, installed larger roller bump stick and picked up a couple mph and ran another 200 before selling. Compression was never changed over for the blower and all was good.

Good luck

Well, I have the metal-lined head gaskets on my heads, I did that when I rebuilt this engine the first time. And I will buy the good felpro intake manfld gaskets for the blower intake..so I should be in good shape...my only worry is my compression..with mine being a 509 now, I am looking at about 9:1 or so..that is why I want to keep the boost down..I don't think I should have any problems.. I have about 125 hrs on this new rebuild so i figure in 2 or 3 years I will freshen it up again (another 100-150 hours)..