TRS vs Bravo 1
 

Does anyone know the "X" dimension conversion for the TRS drive is ? I know what the Bravo 1 is and want to do a comparison. Thanks

I have a Trs on a 22 Donzi. I can tell you that people in China duck when I motor by.:D

I have it backed in against my garage wall that I cut out, but I might be able to measure the bottom of the hull up to the outer transom assembly if that will help. Can't help you with the Bravo. My other two performance boats have a surface drive, and an Alpha drive.

I have all measurements for the Bravo 1 but what I would like to know is bottom of boat to centerline of driveshaft thru the transom assembly on the upper gearcase and where the cavitation plate is relative to the bottom of the boat (distance above or below). I am also guessing yoy "V" bottom is rounded over. Thanks

A picture of the bottom. I can measure inside the engine compartment. I'd have to guess where the center of the shaft is, or again, the measurement to the bottom of the inside transom assembly.

Nice looking Hornet by the way. :)

I can tell you that on my formula my drive shaft is 1 foot below the bottom of the boat. My caviation plate is even with the bottom. I am not sure what the centerline to centerline is on them....

Jon

I think a TRS drive measurement from cavitation plate to the centerline of the input shaft in the upper gear case will tell me what I want to know?

Why go from a good drive to a Bravo? If you're going to convert you should consider the Konrad. The TRS to Konrad conersion can be done in HOURS and requires no re-rigging.

your much better with the konrads.they have a 1 1/4" prop shaft and the there alot wider on top

with no rerigging

Konrads are great but big $$$. If you can do the Bravo conversion yourself its cheaper.

Let's do the math here;

Bravo conversion (single application):
Used Bravo, gimbal, inner transom $ 7,000.
Bravo bellhousing, coupler, coolers, etc. $ 1,000
Steering, engine mount and misc. rigging parts such as cables and hoses. $ 3,000

Plugging transom. $ 6,000 (approx.)
R&R Motor. $ 1,000
Relocate Engine and cut transom for Bravo. $ 4,000

Total parts and labor. $22,000

Konrad conversion.

Half Kit (drive only and this is perfect if your gimbal is in good shape) $11,000
Labor $200.
Total $11,200
Full Kit (drive gimbal, rams, etc) $14,000.
Labor $600
Total $ 14,600

I'm not the sharpest guy here so maybe you should check my math but I think the Konrad comes out cheaper. It's also a FAR better drive! It's not uncommon to go through multiple Bravos per season so you need to add in the cost of repairs or in many cases replacement of you Bravo every season.

Konrad has had NO failures to date! Brian Bunch (Fountain of youth P4-33) has over three seasons on the same set of drives with no failures. Find me a Bravo that can do that!

I guess you missed the do it yourself part.........

Your estimate numbers are ridiculously high, $6k to fill transom yourself, try $200 and some time. Relocate engine, $0, just time. $4k to cut a hole, please. I don't sell Konrads or Mercs so.........
I am sure Konrads are great and easy to install which is great but $$$.

Used Bravo $2-3k
Bravo TA $1-1.5k
Bell House $250
Coupler $250

Total $3.5-5k plus time, time, time. Less than half the Konrad price.

If you cant DIY then I agree go Konrads or a used TRS.


Buying a used TRS would be the cheapest.

Don't forget that there is a stand off box that bolts to TRS and then put the bravo on. I have not done the math, but I know of a guy that did it and has had good results.

Stelling mad a box, it is no longer available.

If you do it yourself then yes it may be cheaper but this kind of a project is WAY beyond the capabilities of most boaters. The glass work is not trivial nor is re-locating the engine in the correct position.

The hour involved are much greater than most people imagine. I can't tell you how many times I've heard a customer tell me how easy it is to "just" move the engine.....

When did Stelling discontinue this? Doesn't Fred at Trick Marine still sell them?

I agree on the do it yourself. I would send it to someone else. There is nothing wrong with running a TRS. There are a lot of parts out there still in case you break one.

Just to get back on track & why I want the measurements. The boat I am refurbishing had twin 4 cyl. 190 HP Mercruisers. I know what the correct height for a TRS is for this specific boat. I have already bought a new engine that came with a Bravo 1 drive hence my desire to come up with a conversion "X" measurement.
If I can get these 2 measurements :

1. prop shaft center to cavitation plate
2. cavitation plate to input shaft center in upper gear housing

I will be able to figure out what I want to know.

Sorry if there was any confusion for my initial question.

Can you get the template from Mercruser?

I don't need the template. All I need is the above dimensions from a TRS drive.

1. Bravo dimension + 1"
2. Bravo dimension + 1"

However, due to better current propeller technology you should take advantage of the shorter drive and mount it at or within 1" of the recomended TRS location (about 1 " lower)

I agree with Ironman.
Most of conversions I know of, the engine crank centerline to the bottom (X dimension) is left the same or increased 1".
The Bravo drive is approximately 1" shorter.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help.