500 Efi
 

Not sure if this is the right place for this. I need to know the best way to get 625hp to 650hp out of these motors. Don't want to go much more than that because of the drives. Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance, Robert

Call Tyler Crockett, or Mark Boos with Precision Marine.

They both have it figured out and do a very nice job.

Also they both know how to program the ECM which is critical.

I got 600 HP with heads and cam, and reprogram.

Ask Roger "RHC" how they run. He loved the midrange.

Good luck

Thanks Dock, do you have a number for Tyler of Mark? Would like to talk to someone who knows.
what to do.

Some buddies just did mine and Mark at Precision did the dyno/tuning. Made 630 at 5,100 rpm with full accesories and my exhaust (wet CMI's). My concern though is torque...made 700 ft/ lbs at 4,200 rpms!! :eek:

540's, ported heads, higher compression, 50# injectors and monoblade intake.

We have a couple options with heads,intake and throttlebodys. You can make 580-590 HP with aluminum heads, bigger camshaft, and larger throttlebody. After 600 HP the stock plenum top becomes the restictor. Our new high flow plenum top should be ready soon. Tyler 8103242720.

Robert:

I told you Tyler is the man! He offers many upgrades to 500 efi's and can make hp just like your old 575's. He'll be posting pictures soon of our new 650 / 700 efi engine in the build process. He has some cutting edge stuff that you'll appreciate.

What t500 did was

Dart Iron Eagle heads
New SRP Pistons, 9.7CR Small Dome
Converted to 540
Larger Crane Cam
50lb Injectors
Mono Blade

The intake is the wall at 625-630 HP. Engine had a lot of vacuum at the point. The engine idled very well and had all the same qualities of the EFI. Did not spend a fortune getting there either.

Is Whipple an option for you?

Canada Jeff, the whipple is the way I would like to go, however I'm afraid because of loosing drives. Plus I was told that I would need to dyno, is that true?

No need to whipple.

I don't think so. I believe Whipple has it all figured out. I have the same engine and I'm at 300 hours. I am thinking new head gasgets and I should be OK for another 200 hours if I whipple it.

I too am worried about the drive. but we have control of how much we push it right. Keep the bost low, and easy on the stick.

Where are you located?

I wouldnt build the engines you are looking to build without dyno'ing them.

I have seen these stock style plenums on 650-700 HP engines from Pfaff and others, is there different sizes of the ASM intakes or how are they getting the ponies when others say 600-630 is the limit for this air intake plenum?????

The ASM monoblade allows for more air so it helps but still limits what can be done below. My dyno run (630HP) was done with the motor assembled just as it sits in the boat. Some builders make dyno pulls with no accessories on the front and dry "dyno" headers, these items rob HP. I am convinced their are builders out there that could provide me a 700HP dyno sheet with MY motors if pulls were made in this way. Also, IMO if a builder claims he is going to sell you a 650-700HP motor, do you think he is going to give you a dyno sheet that says anything less??? My buddies helped me build my motors so Precision Marine (who did the dyno pulls) had no pre-determined number that HE promised we would hit. If your paying someone to build and entire motor.....can you really determine that he's 50 HP short of what was claimed?

A dyno is always preferred, but if Whipple offers this kit complete, as they do, I don't see why a dyno is nesissary. A whipple is going to put you to 700 hp at least, so what if its a little more or less.

After the kit is installed just do some diiferent runs and different rpms and check the pulgs as you go.

Not the best answer, but I haven't read where this kit has let anyone down.

I have the AS&M mono blade valve on mine. Had the computer recaled too. I notices some gain in mid range, thats it.

Can't they be extruded honed larger without loosing too much air speed? BOB

Canada Jeff......you just don't know the problems, a good friend of mine has BECAUSE he did not dyno his motor.Whipple is guessing on each install.
But go ahead and bolt one on your motor and you will see what I'm talking about. BOOM!!!!

Exactly....

So your saying my engine will go boom if I don't dyno? Whipple doesn't even sugest a dyno. Nor does procharger. But if you say so.........

Canada Jeff- I'm in Georgia.

I'm speaking for excursion here so bear in mind these are my thoughts (and I think his). A buddy of ours put Whipples on 525's, spent alot of time trying to get everything right but did NOT dyno/tune them. A year later....BOOM! We are re-building one right now.
I just removed Prochargers from 500's on a boat I bought used. They were supposedly "tuned" but ran so dam rich it looked like a diesel. (buddies 525's did the same thing). The fuel curve must be mapped to what the Whipple/Procharger needs and unless you put them on a dyno your just guessing at what they need. Some are right on......others aren't. For the cost of the dyno I'm not willing to gamble with the cost of a motor or a month (plus) lost during the middle of the summer.

So are computers recaled wrong? H ell they have sold enough now to know how to set the computer you would think. So I guess a dyno would show excessive smoke?

You understand my confusion here right. I agree that a dyno for any engine work is a great idea, I just thought Whipple had a better package than that.

Twin Screws, where is your closes dealer?

Mine is in Buffalo.

I know they offer it that way.....the only boat I have personally seen with them is 1 for 2 :rolleyes:

When we opened up my Procharged motors one didn't look so good....although it may not have been fuel curve related and more because of boost in general.

(504) 469-7463

Mark @ Precision Marine

http://www.pmefi.com/company.html

In my opinion the dyno is not neccesary with a Whipple or ProCharger on a EFI motor, I have run a M3 ProCharger on a 502 MPI since 2001 with no problems! Mark @ Precision did the ecu for me and custom headwork in 2003. I bought a 35 Fountain last fall and just installed a pair of 500 EFI's w/ Whipples and considered getting them dynoed before dropping them back in the boat but Mark said it was not neccesary! If you really want to dial it in the best way is to have o2 sensors bungs in the exhaust and have someone like Mark tune the boat on the water in real world conditions. There are a LOT of these kits (ProCharger & Whipple) on the water with zero problems that you never hear of but as soon as someone has a problem they blame the kit. The truth of the matter is more than likely they did not know how operate the boat with the supercharger in the first place. I have seen people stay in the throttle and be all over the rev limiter and not even realize it and before you know it they have major problems. My .02 for what its worth.

All I know is will the Supercharger who ever the manufacture garranty your motor if you "BOLT ON" one of there kits and it blows...........NO!!!!!!!!! sorry for your bad luck is what they will tell you. Just wander what you would do if it were your motor?? I would guess if you were smart DYNO??????????

Both or more of you are somewhat right. What you get if you buy an offshelf whipple is a program that will work. It is easy all around. Whipple is not out there trying to blow motors. Every engine is different, a carb is forgiving, where a computer does the same old thing every time. A slight air flow change or a few extra degrees of cam timing, a higher fuel pressure, timing off a little, Add this all up and a EFI can work, but not really be close. A dyno lets you get all prameters good. The trick is to simulate idle in gear, how much load? Mid range & top end are easy picks for someone who understands the EFI. I really only think there are 2 places to go with calibrations. I like Precision. A dyno allows you to tune the engine to Max performance. A off shelf Whipple will work as these guys have done massive research to develop a program. They have to add a safety factor in for the unknown and the idit factor. What you get is a system that will work 99% of the time. Dont sell these guys short. With Dyno tuning you get a better tuning. In the water is a guess. That should only be a idle adjustment issue.

My 2 Cents

I see your point but consider this, if you bought a Merc HP600sci, 700sci or 850sci and a YEAR later the motor developed problems you would be same situation......no warranty and the repair is on you. At that point with my bolt on kit at least I would have saved a lot of money for repairs. :drink:

O.K. this is making sence now.

Indy27, are you happy with the whipples on your 500's?

Love em! :D

Did you replace head gaskets? what boost are you running? What HP do you think your engines are pushing?

Boost is 6psi and head gasket were replaced. HP is around 700-725 depending on rpm.

You did dyno or anything right? Just installed the kit as it was shipped to you right? Did you have to remove the cool fuel system? What RPM is it prop at when running WOT??