Both, side to side play is from a worn gimble ring in the swivel pin area and up and down play is from the swivel pin nut coming loose and letting the gimble ring drop and cause a problem at the lower gimble pin.

Swival-Shaft Cover Kit, (without removing bell-housing?)
 

HI BigJim. I'm going to attempt this, (Ron Bender's Swival Shaft Cover Kit), and I'm thinking perhaps I can drop the swival-shaft without removing the bell-housing; maybe just pulling the aluminum ring on the bellow and pushing the bellow through... and reaching up through there? Ever try that... I'm nervious about removing the bell-housing because I know my trim-sensor & trim-limiter screws are going to break-off corroded, and I don't have the star-tip tool. think this might be possible?

Wow I am shocked to see this thread again.

I have done several and after you do your first one you will find its not that bad.

Don't try to take any short cuts. You will need to take it all apart so you can replace the upper swivel shaft seal. Check the lower bushing also.

Ron is a great guy to work with, give him a call if you have questions.

How is the seal when it is all said and done? I talked to one shop and they said they do not it this way and that they must pull the motor.

They say drilling into it will create more problems but it looks like a good system to me.

Any such method for a TRS drive?

The seal is fine. Rubber gasket and I used a smear of RV black. You would know if it leaked!

They shop probably wants to pull the motor for more $$$. When I did my first one, the engine was actually out of the boat. Some people prefer to pull the engines. I doubt this causes any weak points for a 500HP application.

I would call Ron on the TRS, I can not answer that question.

Good Luck:D

Awesome post...Just what I was looking for!

Good info

THANKS for info...