the most common reason your oil is milky.....
 

Rule out exhaust......Pressure tested that already.............

intake gasket
head gasket
cracked head
cracked block


Fresh motor....dart heads 540 eagle rotating assemble, je pistons......Blah blah blah

The powers of oso are the powers to be..................

have you ruled ut reversion yet?
whats the cam profile?

have you done a leakdown test? if it passes that, then a HG might be gone between an oil and water jacket. That's what happened with me.

reversion is not a option exhaust is completly dry

thats my thoughts, just want a lot of your guys thoughts.....thx

My old leaky exhaust passed the pressure test, but leaked like a sieve when heated up.

But.... I'll take intake manifold gasket for 200, Alex

That is what i was told, but i filled the manifolds with water and 60 pounds of air pressure, then took 4 propane torches and laid them in each port..........Still no leaks..................gotta be intke or head gaskets eh

Just went thru this with my boat.Leak down test indicated a blown head gasket on port side.Since the intake was off told the shop to replace both gaskets.

Also,in my case but not yours, the exhaust riser gasket on starbord side was leaking too.Did you pull the plugs to see if their wet?

I'll also take the intake for $200.

yup plugs just wet from first run and break in.....I like to run a touch fat the first time out...Then lean my way down slowly....None of the plugs were washed clean ie reversion.......I read back to your posts before i posted this.....

Mine was a cracked block, at the top of the cylinder jacket. Hope to run new mill next weekend. I was feeling pretty good about the new build until I started reading your post. You got me scared now:D

Intake gasket, You'll check that first before you pull the heads.

cracked oil cooler. Had a bad one once. Took me forever to figure it out. Take it to a radiator shop have them pressure check it. Might not be it but its one more possibility.

I've been down this road also.

Cracked block or heads unlikely. The machine shop should have caught that.
If it is running strong, I would say a head gasket is also unlikey.
My vote would be oil cooler first because it is easiest to check, then intake manifold. How much water pressure are you running?

Second that... Especially if you are running a crossover(no water pump). Assuming you are, check the gasket near the back water passage on the intake. Have an aluminum (Brodix) headed stroked motor, 11:1 compression, HVH intake and due to the fact I was running a restrictor in the thermo housing, and just a crossover w/bypass, too much H2O pressure was building and pushing past the intake gaskets at the rear passage. Never saw a rise in oil level, just a nice chocolate shake. Could idle for days without any water getting in, but take it past 4000 and wallah instant shake. Didn't have a pressure guage installed, so I can't give you any numbers. Hope this helps.

Did the same to mine after taking a 502 to a 540. Using Dart Pro One aluminum heads. It was the intake gasket. Put in a Mercury relief valve, changed to the right gasket and no water!

Im in for a intake gasket. Make sure you use the orange silicone around the water prts both side of the gasket and stick it on good. j

Intake gaskets, what's your water pressure? My Eliminator had the same problem, under 4000rpm everything was perfect. Over 4000rpm:eek: milkshake in the valve covers and catch can. Pulled the intake and had pudding. Changed gaskets numerous times until I checked the water pressure. put a relief valve and a dump out the transom, problem solved:rolleyes: Good Luck, hope it hasn't hurt anything else. I had a bearing failure the next spring from the water.

Run it at idle for an extended period after warming the motor up. The pull the exhaust away and check for signs of water at or near the exhaust ports. If water then bad exhaust.

Check water pressure. Could be pushing gaskets.

Do you have the correct head gaskets? Are you installing the intake with care and not over-applying sealant to the water ports?

Could be a bunch of things here but I would check the obvious first... Exhaust.

i have a relief for steam pockets already.....My water pressure is around 4-5pounds at idle and about 18-20 at wot.......

not the exhaust pressure tested them already..........


has anybody given thought to head bolts leaking into valve train........I am told that without proper sealant on the threads the water can walk up the thread and drip into the valve train.....

Leaks don't always show up with pressure testing. Unless you get the manufacturer to test them and certify them then they are still suspect. The best way to check yourself is as I prescribed.

The oil cooler is a good call too. Easy to check.

That would explain water in the oil, but when i run the motor with just the manifolds on (gen 111) why would it only mist out of some of the cylenders....mainly the back


no thoughts on the head bolts lofty

If sealant or silly cone wasn't used, that would definitely be a problem

has anybody thought about condesation from the eng. running to cool, not able to burn off the moisture in the eng, it got two of my eng. due to clogging my oil filter , because of all the idling i have to do ,and i even have oil thermostats.......and only the thicker merlin block does it.

I have thought of this......Amoung all the other things, cold water, early season testing....I might be overeacting but the money i have in this mill is almost more than i can handle...

Trying to be extra cautious.........Plus the help and insight i get here is better than anywhere else.......


Thanks guys keep brainstorming

If you're getting mist in the exhaust and you run dry pipes then you've narrowed this down a bit. Head bolts? Maybe but I've never seen that happen, the gasket should still seal the water away from the combustion chamber and you would only get water in the oil. And just a bit at that.

It's going to be in the intake, the head gasket, or the exhaust.

I had the same problem. I pressure checked everything, no help. Made adaptors for the exhaust, collers and block. No indication. I finally followed some advice from this forum (REPLACE THE INTAKE GASKET WITH I CANT REMBER) Look it up and you will see which one to get. I should also tell you that I had 3#s of procharger boost on a stock engine and that add on took out the stock gasket. It is a cheep fix, you may just want to do it to eliminate one thing.

I've seen problems with Gen 6 heads on Mark IV blocks. There is a big mismatch in water jacket passages.