I have two friends running non-coated aluminum heads that mainly boat in salt water.

They tell me it all has to do with flushing them out very well.

Go to the coast for three or four days and FLUSH them very well and you are good.

As mentioned by Big Block Billy, "Flushing is the Key".

I would not be afraid of them, and would probably not spend the extra money for coated heads based on what I know and have seen first hand.

I run aluminum heads in salt water. I also have closed cooling, wouldnt try it any other way.

Here is a pic of one of my $3000/set AFR heads after 1 year in brackish water. Although you can get flush most of the salt water out, the crevices will retain salt water. Closed loop cooling is cheap insurance at $1000/side. I also listened to a buddy who had run aluminum heads for 3 years with no problems. Not to say he did have problems but every situation is different as my issue previously posted.

we have a high salt content here in the north east. i have alot of costumers with engines runing aluminium heads, and no major failures like the one shown by thunder struck.
i do however run non-toxic bio antifrreze thru the systems 2 times a season after draining the block.

Depends on the type of aluminum,I have run aluminum for over 20 yrs with no problems in salt.Dart and brodex.I hear
some of the cheaper brands don't hold up so well.On a blower motor the gains out weigh the negitives.Also much lighter to handle. just my 2
I always flush if the boats going to sit for more than a day or so.

What is the brand name of that anti-freeze? Sierra?

The flow numbers aren't always the issue. Aluminum heads conduct heat from the combustion chamber quicker and lessen the chance of hot spots that cause detonation. This is very important if you are supercharging the engine. On some heads there are places to install sacrificial anodes in the core plugs. This will help along with the flushing if you are NOT going to run a closed system. The other issue with running aluminum is super heated salt water. Salt water is corrosive enough cold...... it will dissolve aluminum relatively quickly when heated over 150 degrees.

What was the root cause of the corrosion? The mis match of water passages?
I have a alum Edlebrock heads that have failed after 75 hours. Flushing alone can not prevent the corrosion. I will bet that nobody flushes an engine more than me. I also use salt away after every run.

I know std intakes in salt water get eaten to crap in a couple of years...I would go to closed cooling system no question to run aluminum parts at all....

I know std intakes in salt water get eaten to crap in a couple of years...I would go to closed cooling system no question to run aluminum parts at all....