MSD advance springs??
 

I have the marine MSD distributors. THey advance 4 degrees at around 4500-5000 rpms acording to my light. My engines make their best top end power at 32 degrees. That means I have them set at 28 at 2000. THis is the lowest I can get a good reading.

People have said that I should take the advance springs out of the distributors and lock it in at 32 degrees.

Please, those of you who hate the MSD set up, don't chime in unless you can help with the situation. I have these and I am going to use them because I loaned out one of my TB-iv's.

I am trying to get the best set up with the MSD's
Thanks,

Oh and does anyone have a schematic on how to take the springs out if that is the way I decide to go?

Lock them and be done with it. Start better, idle better, and run better with never any maintenance issues... and ignore the calls that its too hard on the starter...45 degrees well maybe but not 32, have been locking in stuff for yrs and have never had any starter problems. Its easy to lock out...can do in about 2 mins... Here is link.... see page 4 bottom....

http://www.msdignition.com/pdf/8360_frm%2023793.pdf

That's what I have been hearing. The diagram does not say if I can accomplish this without actually pulling the distributor out.

You have to pull it out because you have to drive the roll pin out of the gear so the whole assembly can lift up a couple of inches and be rotated around 180 degrees....no biggie, but it must come out....:drink:

Ive never had any problems with the springs on my MSD systems...had them in my old K5 blazer w/383 and had them in my old scarabII w/454's
It takes a little playing with but once you get the right spring combo in and maybe even change the bushings it runs like a top :)

After discussing with some other guys on the phone and reading literature. I need to run the black bushings 18 degrees. THe biggest ones. And the lightest springs so that I am at full advance at around 15-1600 rpms.

Take a close look at the counter weight assembly and it's weak spotwelds. You may consider welding or brazing them to keep things together. If you don't you may be sorry.
I've been there, BBB

Why do they and you feel it needs a curve in it? If you want full advance by 1500 then why bother putting a curve in it;) ....you are not going to hurt your starter...Full advance= start better, idle better. Nothing to play with or ever worry about....keep it simple.

I keep hearing that. Don't you get a stronger idle, better manuvering at the docks, with less timing advance down low?

What are the specs. on your engine.....blower,N/A ,compression ,cam lift and duration,Cubic inch,crank size,rod length, gears, prop size and boat wt.

38 scarb, weight full, approx 11000. engines = mild 582". 600 @4500. 9.8 compresion short deck BBC.. Cam is small 560 lift. Small oval port heads.

Next test run I am putting in 18degree bushings and setting springs for full advance at as close to 2000 as I can get them. I will set initial timing at 16dgress. This should advance it to 34. I think this set up will get me closer to where I want to be.

The reason for 64 questions is relative to "lugging" your engine .

You never stated the gear ratio or prop pitch. However,at 600 HP one might assume the ratio to be 1.68 gears w/a 28 or 29" prop for 11,000 #.

To be on the safe side,possible to run 87 octane from time to time knowingly or unknowingly and reduce risk of detination I would start at 16 -18 *and curve to 3500 RPM for "all in" 34*

I have 1.5 gears and 26 pitch props right now, but that is all subject to change when I get engines all dialed in.

I was thinking 3500 for all in also, but a couple local guys were telling me to have it all in before boat got on plane.

Right now boat planes right at 2500-2800. This will change obviously with tuned engines and bigger props.

Your local guys may have a good idea ........What do I say ..

Incidently, a 28 " prop w/1.68 gears = 17.26 and your 26 "w/1.50 = 17.33 .....both combinations are very similar....Some feel a 30" prop is Beta and work from there.

Last,my suggestion encompassed working with a big bore,thin wall stroker 9.8 block w/oval heads .

Good Luck !

Thanks, we are real close. I have a bigger problem right now and will tell you in a couple weeks how your suggestion worked out.