Cutting Dash - What to use?
 

I need to cut a large hole in my dash to install trim tab indicators. What is the best type of cutting tool? Sawzall? Cutoff wheel? Also, what do other people use to keep the surface gel from getting roughed up? When I installed my new helm and drilled holes, I put down the blue masking tape. When I drilled, I started with small bits and worked up to the correct size hole. Unfortunately the gel at the edges of the holes still chipped a little. What is the best thing to use to keep this from happening.

Also, the cables have "waterproof" fittings through the hull. I assume I should still seal the holes in the transom anyway. Is silicone good enough, or do I need to use a 2 part epoxy?

Thanks!!

If you have the room use a saber saw w/ a fine blade (like for metal) drill holes @ corners first. The urathane calks are better than silicone 3M 5200 is the one of the best .

I don't think space will be a problem. I will have to buy a saw. That isn't a problem either:D (In my best Homer voice) Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm neeewwwww toooooolsss (drool)!

Can 3M 5200 be purchased at the local Home Depot or Lowes, or is it a marine product?

The indicators came with a template from Stainless Marine with the locations of the starter holes and all. I just don't want to get to violent tearing up the dash with the wrong saw.

Thanks!

i use an air reciprocating saw with a fine blade. and as stated drill the corners. but before you drill with the last bit of final size, use a counter sinc bit then continue drilling. make sure you coat the edges of the new hole with resin as to seal it. and i wouldnt use 5200. if you need to service the fitting or change a cable that stuff is very strong and will make your life difficult. 4200 is not as strong or you can use an adhesive marine silicone.

Monstaa, do you know anything about the "waterproof fittings"? They came with a bellows that is supposed to silicone and zip tie in place. The K-Plane end of the bellows doesn't seem large enough to go over the plastic cable end that attaches to the K-Plane bolt. Do I jut stretch it good? Also, the cables are 3/16", so I assume a 3/16" hole in the transom would be good enough. I don't want any extra movement space do I?

you should allow for some clearance. not alot but some . for 3/16 drill a 1/4. and see if the cable end is removeable, if not it may be a stretch fit. i know on the outboard style it is.

The best thing I've found for cutting gelcoat is a Dremel with a tile cutting bit.

dremel does work nice, but goes thru bits if the dash is thick say 3/4 .also when the bit wears it snaps and you may scratch the dash.. just be carefull.

The dash is thick. I would say it is at least 3/4" from when I installed the helm. I think due to the thickness, the jig saw will be the better choice. I think I'm going to get the Craftsman 19.2V cordless with the laser line so I can cut a (somewhat) straight line!

Monstaa, my cables are probably a little on the long side. Should I have any issue with coiling them in a large radius coil under the dash to eat up the excess? The Stainless Marine instructions say they can make a 1" radius bend. I won't give it anything near that.

I just did a bunch of big holes in my boat- 3/4" thick dash too. I used a dremel with "roto-zip" bits. They make a roto-zip tool, but the bits work just fine in the dremel tool. Take your time and follow the line on your blue tape.

Use gloves because the dremel will get HOT working that hard.

Seal the raw wood with a little fiberglass resin. I always have west marine resin and hardener with the squirt pumps sitting on the shelf in the garage with some disposable brushes nearby. I use it all the time.

3M 4200 and 5200 is sold at west marine/boat u.s./boater's world. They sell small tubes and large ones too.

coiling will not be a problem. just make sure you tie wrap the coils , and also the cables them selves. dont let them flop around anywhere as this will throw off their accuracy.

Thanks for all the help guys! After thinking about it, I doubt if I have the room for the jig saw where I need to cut. I think I'm going to go with the air reciprocating saw. Those are small and pretty much vertical. That should give all the room I need. Well, off to buy new tools soon!:D

Thanks again!!

Suit yourself. But, I'm telling you, the Dremel cuts through 3/4" gel and plywood pretty easy with a tile cutting bit. Plus, it's simple to make fine adjustments. Last winter I installed a DMP billet glove box. Because it was larger than stock, I had to cut the entire opening through about an inch total of plywood, fiberglass, and gelcoat. I used the same tool for the cup holder, too.

Get the RotoZip tool. Its way more powerful than a Dremel. Lowes carries them.

Rotozip is the way to go!! Works awesome but becareful or you will lose a finger quick.

Tabs indicators are installed. I picked up the Chicago Pneumatic air reciprocating saw. It cut through the dash like butter! Nice nad clean as well!

Bad news, I put the tabs all the way down to get the plugs out of the brackets where the cables come through. I get the starboard cable through the hole and start getting it prepped for adjustment. Starborad tab no go up! :( I got real frustrated, threw some things and then completely finished the port side. Came inside and did a search on my problem. Posts sounded like a solenoid. I went back out and hooked up my remote starter switch to the up solenoid and up it went! At least I was able to finish the install and get the cable waterproofed. I can now put it on the water at least. I'll have to get the solenoid changed out pretty quick though so I can actually use my indicators! I'll try to post some pics.

Thanks for all the help everybody!!:drink:

Pics :D