Oil Line/fitting ??
 

Getting time to plumb my oil system. I plan to go with -12 AN.

I'm not real crazy about the looks or price of braided SS lines so I'm thinking of the push on lines. Summit seems to have decent prices on the hose and fittings.

Can anyone offer some real world experiences concerning the push on, or twist on type hose and fittings ?? Any leaking or other problems I should know about ?

Also, regarding a filter head .... I want to mount the filter/head so when I remove the filter (during oil changes) I can get a coffee can or similar size container under the filter to catch leaking oil. Question ... can all filter heads be mounted so the filter is on top of and or over the head ? That way the warm/hot oil would not drain down on my hands when I'm removing the filter.... so I'm thinking LOL

Any input or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks !!

Hey Kid,

pushfit hose works great, however it's hard to find one that's rated for a high enough temp. I will definitely use it next time, my braided hose is starting to age and it's getting painful to work around.

It shouldn't matter which way your filter mount is placed as long as you are using an a filter with an anti-drain-back valve IMO. I put mine with the filter down, but in retrospect sideways would make it easier to catch all the oil.

Aerquip says their lines are good to +300*. Heck that outta do it, I hope :eek: If not, there are bigger problems :rolleyes:

Thing is, I haven't heard/read too much about the push on stuff, good or bad, and just don't want to make a mistake by using the wrong stuff.

And yes, I too was thinking that mounting the filter sideways would work/help with burning the hands while changing the oil. Damn that hurts ..........

Thanks for the info !!

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/aero5.htm

Used it in my race car, would not hesitate to use in the boat. Only "bad" stuff is make sure you use a socketless hose assembly lube, and do not mix brands of hose & fittings. Aeroquip, Goodridge, XRP, Earl's...they're all making socketless hose and fittings; pick one and get everything from that brand.

dont do it. last year i had a 3/4 airoqwpt push on hose pop off the oil cooler. tosted the moter instantly. baught another brand new moter and this time i used the ss braided hoses with the 12 an screw on ends. i lost almost all of last season , and a new bran new moter.(a lot of money). the marina that did the instalation did not take any responsability. it happened on the first test drive with there mechanic on board. the airoqwipt pushlock hoses were only 2 seasons old.

teddy - You mention that the Aeroquip hoses used on the 1st NEW motor were two seasons old. Sounds like the hoses were used, or maybe re-used ?? Not "picking", just curious as I'm gathering info on this stuff.

btw.... if I go with the push on's, to be safe I'd also use hose clamps too. Just the way I am ..........

Thanks for the info. And that really sux about the motor !!

handfulz - Thank you for the link.

have used the genuine aeroquip push on from henry's engineering in md for years on every race application there is without issue. ... im just curious why you think you need -12 lines... the flow rate and pressure demands don't warrant it and the inside dia is going to be about 50 % bigger than the port and oil gallery ids.... so what do you think you are gaining except weight ?

i ran dry sumps with three times the flow rate of a standard pump w/ -10 forever bigger isn't always better.

You're welcome.
i agree with stevesxm, -10.
There's a special clamp for socketless hose; not necessary but the money you save from using -10 instead of -12 should pay for the right clamps :D

I just used Aeroquip 10 AN push-on with XRP clamps for my oil system. I like it alot. I got 10' of black 10 AN push on left over if your interested.

I'm thinking -12 because I've always battled oil temp issues with my ZZ502/502. With the ZZ502 I went to a Hardin oil cooler good for 700 hp, removed the center bypass valve in the block and installed a 30 lb in the side, and drilled 3 - 3/16 in. holes in the thermostat. After doing that mentioned, oil temps are acceptable. I will add, I had been using the stock 1/2 inch Merc lines and fittings, which I'm sure did not help any.

The ZZ502 has been stroked/bored to a 557 CI. So, I'm thinking -12 will do the job, without a bunch of changing this and changing that kind of stuff. I know the -12 AN is on the big side. But I figure lines/fittings that are too big, would be better than lines/fittings too small.

stevesxm - I realize the oil galleries are smaller than the -12 AN's (galleries about 1/2 inch or so ??). Not to harp, but guess I'm just leary of oil temp issues. Any harm to be done plumbing with lines and fittings that are -12/too big ??

Thanks for the advice. I appreciate it.

I have used socketless hose fittings since the 70's I have not had a problem yet.

kidnova, i to am having an issue with high oil temp . but only on one moter.i cant run hard too long , once the oil hits 165 i slow it down . the owner of the marina showed me that the hose had soft spots by sqweezing it . the hoses were only 2 seasons old. i had i baught them new when i installed the 572 moters. i had the moters rebuilt by lab racing engines,(new EVERYTHING ) and you alreasy know what happened when the marina installed them.:( i used 3/4 because of the big cubes, well my point is the hoses will get soft. and it wont take long. especialy with HOT temps.i dont care what they say about the hoses being able to handle high temp.maybe what happened to me was just a freak thing but your better off being safe and using the hoses with the an screw on fittings. i woulds hate to see what happened to me, happen to anyone else.

Kidnova, I used all 12AN lines and 3/4 fittings on my 496 build up last season. I went with a new block adapter, oil filter mount and thermostatically controlled cooler all from Hardin Marine. Although the 12AN and 3/4 may be overkill, the piece of mind was worth it to me. My cousin just completed a similar build. He used all 10AN and 1/2 fittings....It is working great also.

i don't want to start a war here but "peace of mind" has nothing to do with what is correct in an engineering and technical sense... quite the contrary... peace of mind comes from knowing you are doing things correctly according to a properly calculated and executed engineered approach.

with regard to oil lines, that approach dictates using lines correctly sized relative to the pump output and oil system flow rate demands. on a wet sump big block using a conventional or even "hi flow" oil pump and calculating the pumped volume vs the loss thru the clearances you would find that the stock mercruiser lines are just fine.... which is why they use them...

for the rest of us, we get afraid... GOD they LOOK so small... and not nearly MANLY enough.... and -8 is still a little whimpy and -10 starts to look better BUT -12 is SO much bigger and meaner and more expensive looking... so it MUST be better...

no... all oversized big lines do for you is weigh more, cost more, take up room and make the plumbing difficult and add a smidgen more total volume to the system.

unless the lines were the most restrictive part of the system to start with.... and they were not, you have gained absolutely nothing. and i can not imagine anyway on earth that if ALL the other elements remained the same, how an oversized line would change the oil temp at all.

in engineering it is very simple. the right answer is the right answer. everything else is wrong to some degree

stevesxm - I understand with what you are saying. And I do not disagree with you. My machinist/assembler has also told me -12 is not necessary. My brother (an engineer, btw) says -10 should be OK. Thing is, after 4 seasons of jerking around with oil temp issues, and after now sinking allot of $$ (for me) into the new engine, I'm looking for a reasonably fool proof oil cooling and filtration system.

I've been told (by a known/respected OSO'r), considering the new internals used, the engine can spin in the +7K RPM range and not get hurt. Yet it is cammed for +,- 5700. To date most every part I've used in the engine is "overkill", to some. I know, blah blah blah. But my point is, I want some "overkill" oil cooling/filtration. Some will refer to that as peace of mind. I refer to it as insurance.

Thanks again for your response. I always enjoy reading what you have to say. I'm not a gear head or builder so I don't always know if you're 100% on the mark. But you always seem to use your head.

off topic, kind of ..... I was in the building trades for about 25 years. I'd often talk shop with my engineer brother. During one of our conversations several years ago, he mentioned something that one of his profs would say, or once said. Which was... "when in doubt build it stout". I guess that really stuck with me :D

Thanks again !

i like your brother already. and his professor was right.