Where is the oil bypass valve?

Still working on fuel Pressure Guage.... Shame on Autometer and Dana Marine..... Both have outright said they sold me a Fuel Pressure Guage and don't/sell make the sending unit for it. I have wasted days and several (30+) phone calls trying to obtain the proper sending unit for the guage with no results, and no return phone calls from either company...... Im starting to think they went to customer service school with the guys from Procharger (sorry for the rant)

There is one in the block and one in the remote filter relocator I believe. DO NOT use a electric gauge. They are sh*t. I mechanical one doesn't cost anymore. Run it off the front of your fuel rail and you'll know exactly what pressure your running.

Your right, it is very unfortunate that Autometer does not make a sender for their electric fuel pressure gauge. They never have, SW and VDO has always been used, not only by Autometer, but by every gauge manufacturer. As far as Dana Marine not calling you back, I can't imagine you want me to call you back without an answer. As I've discussed with you (over the last three days and two phone calls) I'm waiting on an answer from Autometer. I apologize for the delay but unfortunately I'm struggling to get information from them. I have SW and VDO senders in stock. Autometer has always been calibrated to VDO specs, thus requiring a VDO sender. For some reason they seemed to have changed. We've been using VDO senders with the Autometer electrical fuel psi gauges for the last year with no problems. As of yesterday, I put in another call to our rep demanding some information. As soon as I have an answer, I'll be calling you.

I agree with the mechanical being more accurate and they are certainly cheaper, but they can be unsafe as well. I may have no choice here pretty quick.

They're as safe as 6 or 8 other things on a boat.

Here is a thread with pictures of the oil passages

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...ght=oil+filter

This is true....

I think I am on my way to installing the mechanical guage anyway. It sounds like Autometer made a boo boo and put out some bad guages and I don't think I will wait for them to figure it out.

Hey Turbo,

Thanks for the link. The problem I am having is too much oil pressure, it sounds like the issues solved with the bypass springs are low pressue issues.

Are you running a Procharger? If so, can you give me details on how you remounted your oil filter. The joke of a photocopied manual I have never explained the relocation, and I did not receive a bracket as I bought my system used. I had to make up a bracket and I still used the stock lines just in different locations. I had good, normal pressure before the install and now it's very high.

Also, when I first start the engine the pressure quage almost looks like it comes up in steps and not a smooth motion... kind of strange... ever heard of that ?

You've got a lot going on. First off, did you recently change gauges? I've noticed on some installs that Autometer gauges read a little different than Merc. gauges, I would recommend putting their sending units in with their gauges. I know Autometer offers 0-80 and 0-100 on their oil pressure gauge.

As for the thermostat, you'll find a lot of different ideas, but with a Procharger I would personally just run a restrictor plate. Someone posted before, you want the protection from detonation, so let it run as cool as it can.

There are threads about running crossovers with blower motors and many discussion about setting them up right on this forum. It seems the consensus is that you need the restrictor plate set-up correctly.

Last but not least, if you get your sending unit/gauge issue with the oil pressure solved and you're still running 80 psi, you may want to consider that you have some excessive blowby. A leakdown test may be in order.

I'm not a big fan of mechanical fuel pressure gauges on efi motors. There's a big difference between 9 psi carbureted and 45 psi efi. Nothing like a 45psi fuel leak behind your dash. The elec has worked just fine for me. Gaffrig and Livorsi can sell you a sending unit for that gauge. Install it after the regulator and as close to the fuel rail, if not it, as you can.

Oil temp is another good to have gauge.

One more thing, 7.4 mpi and not 7.4 mag? Cast internals on the mpi, be careful, any detonation and it will be over.