Fuel cooler
 

I am the new owner of an 04 Nordic Rage with a Whippled 496 and have a couple of questions. I noticed that the fuel cooler is plumed after the oil cooler and the inter cooler is plumed after the power steering cooler. My last boat had a Procharged 383 and I had the inter cooler "T'd" off first, right after the sea pump and the fuel cooler before the oil cooler. It seems like the fuel cooler being the last thing before the motor is not cooling the fuel and may actually be warming it up. Any thoughts?

I teed off after the sea pump also for I/C. Fuel was next then oil and P/S

I see that the Whipple uses 5w-50 syn oil. Does anyone know if and where it can be bought localy?

Hey Kennyo,
How well does the Stern Jack work on your 272? I have on that I took off my Crownline that I may be selling and am courious what other boats benifit.

You can buy 5W50 Castrol Syntec from about any auto parts store. Congrats on the purchase!

There was a guy on teambajamarine looking for one. I think close to 3-4 mph. If you want to sell it i'll try to hook yall up.

I have a buddy with a Sunsation who is interested in it. I told him to do some research before he buys it to see if it is worth doing on his hull. If he doesn't want it I'll get back with you.
It was worth 4-5 mph on my 225BR Crownline.
I'll have to keep looking for the oil, the Pepboys here didn't have it.

O'Reilly's carries it. I beleive I've also seen in at Wal-Mart and possibly Auto Zone. Is this a Bob Lloyd boat?

I don't think so. I bought it at Lake Cumberland Marine. It has Michigan tags on it. My sales man is suppose to get me in touch with the previous owner, but I'm still waiting.
It seems to of had some internal engine work but I'm not sure what. I can see that it has head studs and some kind of spacer under the valve cover, maybe for roller rockers.
I have seen 8 psi of boost and 86+ on the gps before my OO ran out. The next mod will be HYD STEERING!!!

I have a stern jack on a very heavy boat that did not have enough trim travel and therefore not enough bow lift. The extra leverage made it happen for my application. I just spoke with land & sea and they no longer support the jack and parts are not available.

Hey Ken,
I am putting my Stern Jack on the market so if you would tell the teambajamarine guys I would appreciate it. I also have a Procharger setup for a 350 Mag.

On my 500efi I deleated the cooler and bypased the return back to the tank,easier plumbing.

On my Procharger set up, the fuel cooler was on the return to the tank off the regulater.

But I don't remember where it was T'd from:D

Why would they cool the fuel going back to the tank,


most people dead head it back to the fuel filter the reason for the cooler:eek:

I had to block off my intercooler hose due to a belt catastrophe this weekend. I couldn't believe the intake manifold temp difference. I burned the sh*t out of my hand When i leaned in to check on it. Anyway the fuel cooler has got to be better than ambient fuel temps shouldn't it?

The Aeromotive fuel pump used in Procharger carb set ups is used to keep up with demand for fuel. But it also delivers more fuel than needed, so the rest is returned to the tank. I was told the constant recirculating of the fuel gets heated by the pump, therefor the need for the cooler to be on the return.

On my 500efi Whipple kit I asked Dustin about the cooler and he told me the cooler is not needed as long as its not dead heading and is by passed back to the tank.

I wonder how much it cools in when the lake water is in the 80-90+ range?

I'm going to run mine through my beer cooler this weekend and bust 90 MPH!

Thats as fast as your truck can tow it?:p :D

any part of the intake system you can run cooler is always... as in ' every single time without exception, " better then it is if its " warmer" .

running fuel thats been thru a heated intake BACK to the filter is a bad idea... merc did it for simplicity of the plumbing and thats all.

even if you cool the fuel even a little bit, that makes it denser and , as such, carries more energy per unit volume.

run fuel pumps that supply no more than 130 % of the volume that the motor needs at wot ... more just make cavitation/bypass ( depending on the pump) and makes heat... a bad deal... and dump the bleed straight back to the tank thru a line at least as large as the inlet line...

let the motor see the coldest fuel you can generate. that is always the best deal.

Hmmm, what if you have dual tanks?

I would think the best place to pull from would be the coolest place you can find and should be before your other systems. The fuel even when "heated" should still be cooler than anything else (oil,intake charge etc) So running it after those systems could potentially have an adverse effect. I know Aeromotive sells a fuel pump controller for about 300 bucks which steps down the fuel pump voltage to provide a lower flow rate when not needed (ide/low rpm) and jumps it up to max at a user preset RPM. Being that its not screaming at max capacity at all times which is one of the main causes of "heated" fuel and overheated fuel inline pumps. Using a pump controller usually eliminates the need for a cooler and would work great in conjunction with one. Although, I'm very surprised you guys have issues with fuel temps because of the very large tanks involved with boating. This is VERY common with smaller fuel cells in high HP performance auto's. If you really want to get crazy and looking for a cool custom performance gain I have seen the use of CO2 systems used to cool fuel lines but it only works for as long as the bottle lasts so it wouldn't be the most efficient setup for something like a marine engine which is operated at max power for an extended period of time. This may work better if it was actually inside the tank rather than only cooling the supply line. By having a cooling effect on the entire fuel supply it should prolong the cooling capacity of a given amount of CO2 available.