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Water Crossover with or without bypass??
What application do you want the bypass on the crossover?? I was looking on Tricks site that they sell both kind of kits.
:ernaehrung004: |
I was just asking the same kinds of questions not too long ago.
The deciding factor is whether you use a T-stat or not. If there's no T-stat, water will always flow through the block, out the empty T-stat housing and out to the exhaust at all times, without over-pressurizing. However you run the risk of running too cold this way, and with and EFI engine, that's no good. Usually only big blower motors run like this, because they're making too much heat in most instances. If you use use a T-stat to control temps, you should have a by-pass so that water can still flow into the exhaust while the engine's still too cold to open up the T-stat, and also relieve some block pressure. If you do go the T-stat route, it's also a good idea to drill 2 or three 1/8" to 3/16" holes around the perimeter of the t-stat so that even when it's cold some water will move through the block at all times. You don't want non-moving water just sitting in your block. How many holes and what size is pretty much trial and error monitoring your temps. Here's a recent thread with another good link within. http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...d.php?t=165707 |
My opinion is that it depends how much power you're making....
I've run it both ways over the years.... 500-550 NA's with bypass and t-stat and 830 hp supercharged without t-stat and bypass. If you're not running big power I would run a t-stat but thats just my opinion. |
Just a little side rant about the kits with cross-over and thermo housing
why dont they come with belts? the belts have to be different , your eliminating the water pump !?!?!? |
Originally Posted by ENFORCER24
(Post 2284391)
Just a little side rant about the kits with cross-over and thermo housing
why dont they come with belts? the belts have to be different , your eliminating the water pump !?!?!? The raw water pump belt stays the same. |
Originally Posted by Panther
(Post 2284428)
You're getting rid of the water circulating pump so you don't need a belt anymore.
The raw water pump belt stays the same. i know my sea water pump is a belt on its own , but the alternator and PS pump both run around the water pump , they keep it spinning , and i dont see e-nuff adjstment in there brackets to compensate for loss of water pump in the mix |
900++ Hp w/ blower and no circulating pump. I always run a thermostat because I want my engines and oil to warm up efficiently before going "BIG". I would only run without one if there was absolutely no other way....
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Originally Posted by ENFORCER24
(Post 2284933)
And my power steering and alternator run off of what ?
i know my sea water pump is a belt on its own , but the alternator and PS pump both run around the water pump , they keep it spinning , and i dont see e-nuff adjstment in there brackets to compensate for loss of water pump in the mix Ummmm, maybe they use the pully on the front of the crankshaft??????????? Just a guess!:D:ernaehrung004: I run a crossover with no thermostat. Big cube N/A's. |
Originally Posted by ENFORCER24
(Post 2284933)
And my power steering and alternator run off of what ?
i know my sea water pump is a belt on its own , but the alternator and PS pump both run around the water pump , they keep it spinning , and i dont see e-nuff adjstment in there brackets to compensate for loss of water pump in the mix |
Originally Posted by Panther
(Post 2285161)
Just got to Napa, get the right size belt...:hitfan:
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T-stat??
So correct me if I am wrong, but you must run without a t-stat if you dont get the bypass setup? Otherwise there would be no water to the manifolds until the t-stat opens. Correct?
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