blueprinting a hull
 

When a hull is "blue printed" or straighted , hook removed. etc etc., How much of the hull is dealt with?
In reguards to a non step V

depends on length of boat,usually about the last eight feet is the most looked at.

Pick a point, say the 8' forward of the transom on the keel. Now draw a line back to each corner of the transom. This will form a V. That area needs to be flat, and symetrical from side to side. Unless there are characteristics that need to be in the hull to correct some handling problems..
Make sense?

Hope it helps..
Dick

thanks, that makes perfect sense.

Milking that hull for all its worth huh??

Actually that should always be the starting point when trying to dial it in. I'll be verifying mine again this winter!! :(

Keep'n up w/ the jones's :D:evilb:

What are people finding in speed after blue printing? Going to have my hull done in the spring.

From what I have read, it really depends on what you start with. I have read from 2-10mph depending on the hull. You would probably be looking at something on the lower end of that since your hull should be pretty good to start with.

Get a eight foot straight edge go from the transom forward f the triangle Idea, just straighten everything, real blueprinting will do the entire hull, never know when there is a hump.

I took the hook out of my 251 Checkmate and it created a handling problem. I found that hull needed a bit of hook to keep it airborne properly. I ended up putting some wedges in the hull further out from the center. That cured the problem, but added another. I couldnt free the hull up with the wedges. So I rebuilt and mounted my trim tabs to add hook to the bottom when running in rough water and pull them up when I was in calm water for max top end. Worked fine for many years. I could run 75mph in 3-5" water on Lake Michigan.. the washmachine type water..
So depending on how long your boat is.. will depend on how far forward you need to clean it up. But being symetrical from side to side is important also. Razor sharp edges and then a slight scuffed surface is suppose to be the fastest.. So I am told

Dick

Correct, scuffing helps to airiate the hull.

what about just sharpening the keel
any impact? worth it?

I have a notched transom, would you just sharpen the notched area, or anywhere in front of the (twin) drives.
I have some nicks to fill and a previous boat name to take off the transom, might have the glass guy quote sharpening the keel if it helps

speed is low/mid 70's right now on a 24 deg non step
( formula 336)

Ramb

oops, I meant, sharpening the Transom

Ramb

sharper the better will it increase speed? who knows.

The back edge of the hull at the transom if it has a radius it can suck the hull down into the water. A sharp edge there, should allow clean water to the prop(s). That is a good thing!
My buddy sharpened his on his 28' and saw a speed gain.. dont remember how much. So it is worth trying.. .02..