049 Bbc Heads
 

i picked up a core mid-70's chev 454
block was junk but the heads are good ,
my only head scratcher is that one head is a 049 casting , which is widely used in cars and trucks for performance , the other is a 048 casting , they look identical , came off the same motor , but i google the ful casting number and cant find anything about it.
i guess before i put them in the machine shop i'd like to know if the 048 is the same head

thanks in advance

aren't they still oval port heads? If your going to spend the money rebuilding those yiu ought to go rectangle.

There large oval open chamber heads , and rebuilding shouldnt be to expensive , unless you know where i could get rectangular for a couple hundred bucks?
there a big upgrade from my peanut port heads that i have now , not to mention that i will have a much larger variety of intake combo's to choose from

casting numbers
 

Try google for a website called MorTec, it is in my favorites lots of Chevy casting numbers.

Been there done that , they are an awesome site for research
but no luck , they have the obvious 049 casting listed , but no 048
i'm gonna assume its the same head

Possible casting flaw making the 9 look like an 8?

Probably cast in mexico and ran out of nines. I built a strong 496 with those heads.

what is the full casting #'s of each head.

scroll down to the BB Chevy (page 11) it might be the first head they list in the BBC section.
http://racingfeed.com/downloads/chevy_flow_data.pdf

that was my first thought , that it was stamped incomplete , but the whole casting number 353048 in between the rockers , and the 048 on the intake runner in bold casting , either way , i'm using em , unless someone has a set of rectangular for cheap

Yeah to what he said (???).

Also, the old GM "049" casting is an excellent head size for a 454cid engine, but if you use the 049 castings, then you will need to have the seats replaced with hardened seats when using stainless steel valves of today.

The GM rectangle port heads are a bit too large for a 454 and they also have a tendency to crack between the seats....it's a roll of the dice as to when/if it happens.

They also have small valves in them. 2.08 intakes I think. When doing the seats, go to 2.25 intakes and 1.88 exhausts. Problem is by the time you're done, if you do it right, you will have a good bit of money in them.

what if i keep the stock valve size , and go with stainless valves , i'm replacing peanut port heads on a stock motor
only looking to freshen the top end and maybe get 30-40 more ponies , with heads and intake combo , and exhaust will be upgraded too , nothing radical , just stock 496 mag ho manifolds
i'm truly a budget go fast guy

I did the same thing 2 winters ago on my otherwise stock 330. It had a cracked head, so it was a repair first, upgrade second. I was on a tight budget at the time and went the low dollar route. Here's what I did and what I would do different.

Did:
*781 heads (large ovals like your 049's)
- bought used with 2.08" intakes and 1.88" exhaust valves
- lapped valves
- springs from Chris Straub to get proper open/close forces and handle valve lift w/o bind.
*Edelbrock Performer 2.0 intake
*496 manifolds
*relocated shift mechanism, ignition module, and oil filter relocated to back of transom and off the engine
*re-used my Quadrajet carb
***increased mid-range significantly and gained 200rpm on top end. Went from Mirage 3b 21p to Revolution 21p 4b. Holeshot and mid range acceleration biggest improvements.

What I would have done for just a little more $$$:
*Heads
- went to 2.19 intake valves
- mildly ported heads - would have did myself
*Performer RPM intake (airgap if it would fit)
*Holly 750cfm carb
*valve train
- 1.8 rockers to simulate a bigger cam (didn't pull the engine so cam change was off the plate)
- upgraded pushrods 3/8"

The 496 headers are a nice cheap upgrade and a weight savings if nothing else. But, their outlet will be higher than your old manifolds, so be ready for some creative exhaust plumbing. I solved mine by using some stainless steel flex pipe from a heavy truck store. Worked perfectly.

Let me know if I can help any further!

The 049 head is great to be used in a 454. Especialy if it is still in a close to stock configuration. Put an edelbrock 454-0, or similar intake on it, and you will see a night and day difference in the way it performs. Keep in mind also that the 049 is not a 188cc chamber head. It is closer to a 115. A lot of guys think that it is the same chamber as the 088 square and it isn't.

Don't go to a square head on a 454 unless you are using a big cam (over .600 lift or plan on spinning it over around 6000.

The ovals are great for torque on the small displaccement BBC.

Most guys I talk to recomend staying away from ANY vavle seat instalations. This is asking for trouble. When that constant high rpms causes that seat to come out and get lodged between the valve and the head, it wil hand grenade the whole engine.

If you want to spend extra money, the Merlin oval head is a great instalation for a 454 right out of the box. Just make sure that it is set up for th roller or the flat tappet from the factory.

forgive my ignorence , if i go to bigger valve size do i have to install hardened seats?

I have never increased the valve size on these heads. They are great the way they are. It is way to much work for a 10-15 HP increase. This caliber engine does not need all of that work. Have them refreshed and put the proper valve spring on them for the cam you are using and go run them. Spend the money on the intake and go to a 750 carb and you will see more results than changing out the valves.

Save our money for when you are ready to build a bigger engine.

These heads will work great in the future if you decide to stroke that engine into a 496. Just remember your chamber size when you are ordering pistons.

Good luck with your project. You will enjoy this upgrade.

thanks jeff

i'm gonna use the stock cam thats in the engine , what kinda springs should i aim for and what do you think about 1.7 to 1 roller rockers ? , i also want to change to a nice set of valve covers for the "bling" effect

1.7 is standard for BBC. Buy a good rocker like the Crane Gold and you can use them for your next engine. You need to have you machine shop set them up for around 90-100 lbs closed pressure for flat tapet hydraulic. I always use a Manley or a Comp depending on what I am looking for.

Depending on your current exhaust set up, You will need a notched valve cover to clear the manifold or the header. You will have to go with bigger valve cover to clear the new rockers and studs. Those heads use the 7/16 stud. Get the longer stud so your set screws are not buried so far down into the nut and you will have more threads ffrom the nut holding onto the stud.

When installing any stainless steel valve, you will still need hardended seats installed in the "049" heads---it does not matter what size of stainless steel valve you use.

Jeff1000man is right....you do not necessarily need to go with larger 2.19" intake or 1.88" exhaust valves. You can end up putting a lot of money into these heads and it always cost more money for more power.

You can stay with the stock valve size, but if your budget will allow it, have the heads at least bowl/pocket ported while paying special attention to the short side radius area.

Here's another option, if you're refreshening the engines with a complete rebuild, then now would be a good time to upgrade to more cam. Something like a flat tappet hydraulic... 218*/226* and .515"/.515" lift on 110* lobes would be a good cam for what you're doing if you want a little more power---and very inexpensive compared to a roller type of cam. It will peak out at about 5100rpm or so depending on the exhaust you're running. It's a good cam for a low RPM engine if you're sticking with cast pistons, and bottom end. It's the same cam my cousin uses in his 454cid engines that make 461hp @5100rpm on Tom Earhart's dyno with car/dyno headers.

It all depends on how far you want to go and how much SMACK you're willing to spend.

i'm loving all the info i'm getting here , keep it coming

for this year i'm not touching the bottem end , just the heads and intake and exhaust , exhaust is gonna be 496 mag ho , heads will be the 049 gm heads , not sure if i'm gonna up the valve size or not , intake is up in the air (watching ebay) , and for at least the spring test and tune i'm gonna keep the stock carb , but may spring for a holley marine at some point this summer

[QUOTE=jeff1000man;2420309]. Keep in mind also that the 049 is not a 188cc chamber head. It is closer to a 115. A lot of guys think that it is the same chamber as the 088 square and it isn't.


Most guys I talk to recomend staying away from ANY vavle seat instalations. This is asking for trouble. When that constant high rpms causes that seat to come out and get lodged between the valve and the head, it wil hand grenade the whole engine.

QUOTE]

Every one I have is 119-121 cc. And I measure them. If they are less, they have likely been cut. Dont run them without seats, the valves will pound there way in unless you can find some 60's vintage leaded gas. Properly installed seats will be just fine.

Now I have a question, 496 exhausts work on a 454? I thought they were a different animal.

I know the 525 is a different animal. I don't know about the 496. All my 496's are stroked 454 carbed.

As far as the seats. It takes quite a few hours to wear those valves out. hundreds. It only takes about 10 minutes and a little detonation from some bad gas to loose a valve seat.

I havn't had any problems leaving them alone (YET).

Save your money and run them one season and save your money for a really good set of AFR's for next year when you build the whole engine. The way the price is coming down on them, they will be 2k a set next year.

Good luck

I lost a seat and fragged a brand new engine. I'm with Jeff on this one.

They do work just fine...have 2 season's on my "hybrid" with no problems. You will have to be creative with the plumbing, but with a trip or two to the hardware store for elbows and t's it's an easy set up.

If you are working on the engine while it is in the boat, the 496 heaters are 100 times easier to install due to their much lighter weight.

That's my long range plan also. Actually it is to sell my current engine outright and build up a 502 around AFR 305 heads.

BTW, Jeggs has AFR305's for $2k right now!

Any reason not to go with 1.8 ratio rockers if upgrading? That would give him a little bit more rpm's and therefore power, right?

The 330's cam is 214/218° @ 0.050" & 0.460/0.480" lift. Using the 1.8 rockers would make it "act" like a 227/231° @ 0.050" & 0.487/0.508" lift, right?

One last thought - everything I've read show's the Edelbrock Perfomer RPM and RPM AirGap to be the best intakes for engines like this one. Can anyone produce data or an article stating otherwise?

It adds unnecesary stress to the valve train. Also he will have to buy another set next year when he builds his new engine. I would got the more conservative route and use a bigger camshaft when the time is right.

As for your AFR set up, You will be better off ordering you heads from builder/ supplier because the upgrades that you will need to do to those stock heads or longevity will outweight what the cost will be from us.

Example - Inconnel valves, re doing the springs to match the cam, and hard annodizing the head to figt corosion.

It is a good intake, but those are dual plane intakes. I prefer the single plane 454-0 for the increased velocity and thus better midrange torque and high rpm power.

I also recomend high quality oval port heads for NA engines under 502-509 CI. You wil see better torque numbers which is more important in a boat then HP.

THe 305 afr and the 308 iron eagle are small enough runner for good torque also.

I can get you great pricing on AFRs with all the upgrades and CNC'd chambers for under 3k a set, and they will have the proper springs for whatever cam you decide to use.

Good luck with your project.

Let me know if I can help.

[QUOTE=jeff1000man;2421200]It is a good intake, but those are dual plane intakes. I prefer the single plane 454-0 for the increased velocity and thus better midrange torque and high rpm power.

[QUOTE]

But for this guy's mild 330 upgrade, a dual plane would be better due to only 454ci and less than 5000rpm, right?

A 502 with AFR305's would be a good match for a single plane.

Yes, I would think in most cases a dual plane would be better for a 454cid engine that will only see 5000rpm or less---and that is especially true if you're running with the old Merc cast iron non-breathing exhaust manifold junk. I do not know much about the Merc 496 exhaust system, but I do know that a better breathing aftermarket exhaust system will bennefit your engine's power output especially in the midrange cruising speeds. Based on what I have experienced and have seen since the early 1980's that is just my .02

What kind of HP do you think this combination would produce?

[QUOTE=ECeptor;2421319][QUOTE=jeff1000man;2421200]It is a good intake, but those are dual plane intakes. I prefer the single plane 454-0 for the increased velocity and thus better midrange torque and high rpm power.

I doubt you would even be able to measure the diference betwen the 2 manifolds on an enigne of this set up.

Until you get into bigger displacement, higher rpms, and bigger cams and hgihger quality heads most of those things are not factoring.

I always suggest you buy the parts for the engine that you intend to build, even if it doesn't work the best with your current set up, it will be close.

If you only intend to build a 454, 406 or 502, then buy the smaller stuff.

If you intend to go bigger or bring blowers or NOS into play, then plan for that now to save yourself some cash in the future.

454's 502's etc, IMO are engines that just don't make the power unless you throw money at them. If you are going to, or are planning on throwing money, than construct a plan or what you intend to do in the future.

Short blocks are available online and through suppliers for very reasonable prices and will make very reasonable power with the proper cam application and bone stock aftermarket heads.

If you intend to build a bgger bottom end in the future, then buy the top end that will work for that combination down the line.

In the case of the 330, ANY inprovement AT ALL is better than what they came with. If it is intended to get stroked to a 496 in the future then buy the good ovals and the single plane so you will get optimum power later down the road.

If your intent is to eventually stroke the 502 into a 540, then buy the small square port head and spend the money and order it from a supplier who can set it up for what you are going to do with it in the future. You will feel so much better in the future, when you are thinking back on your wise choices, instead of filling up the Swap Shop tryng to find the ONE guy who needs that junk you obviously realized to late, was a bad purchase. Or if you are the guy that is settling for less than optimum power in his big displacement mill because he is trying to make the stuff from his smaller engines work on his larger mill.

Good luck with your projects.