The quickest and cheapest way is to extend the breather tubes before the filter vents.Inbetween the filter and valve cover.Once the filter is up higher,it will be alot harder for the liquid oil to travel up,then only vapor oil will come out the filter which is normal. all needed is a few hose clamps and some type of tube.

:cool-smiley-027:
Yeah, but it depends on what you're looking for - this thread has gone from vacuum pumps at one end of the cost/cleanliness spectrum to your simple fix for oil liquid.

The residue left inside the engine compartment from oil (& combustion) vapour is corrosive and accelerates the deterioration of all of the components. MrHP(aka Mr Clean) hit the nail on the head with the vacuum pump - its "the" proven solution today to remove this dirty condition, although most of us can't afford it - either space for the pump or money to buy it.
Just my .02 over morning coffee.

If you use a vacuum pump, where do you exhaust it? Doug

What brand puke tannks do you have for sale? Do you have entire vacuum system or just the tanks? How much do you want for both?

Here is what my engine builder supplied. I added drain valves to the bottom of the tanks.

Have you noticed less of a gain on motors with stock oil pans?
I've seen a couple where the Vac pump didn't make as much as expected, but then when we swapped pans it came around huge. I was only pulling 10-12 inches though and maybe that makes a difference, but it seems like a bigger pan with side kick-outs really helps.? Thanks, Alex.. :ernaehrung004:

rbtnt thats the same as mine , it cured my oil blowby mess.The Whipple kit came with a 3/8 line and filter,it would blow oil out of it, my theory was it had more velocity so the oil would not separate from the air coming out ,the #12 the velocity was slowed way down and the oil would separate from it, Kinda like how a dry sump tank works.

Peterson makes the tank any way ya want,around 79.00, I ran # 12 hose as to let the oil separate from the air coming out of the block, there not even any residue on the can ,no more smell.

another thread on it,
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...wer-motor.html


http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...endations.html

picks

made a bracket out of stainless,polished it,it bolts up under the factory coil bracket, same bolts,keeping it simple:drink:

Very clean and simple!!

Vacuum pump or
Breather tank or
Vent to air cleaner

Vacuum pump is best(Next to dry sump which has plenty of scavenge ;) ), breather tank=obvious next best. Venting to the air cleaner will keep the engine compartment fairly clean but it's really not a good idea for a HIGH_HP(800 hp+ I really shouldn't state that it's hp related.... if you're close to the edge octane wise, this "blowby" could be trouble) engine. The oil vapors are there because things are going by the rings, right? That's not all that ends up being spit out....oil, right? How about this might induce detonation?

Anyhoosit, back to my cave ;)

We have one vacuum pump for both engines. The discharge goes to a catch can and the fumes are vented out the bilge....very clean.

one vac pump for 2 bb chev engines
 

BP. Could you shed any more light on the installation of one vac pump for duel big blocks? This sounds like the answer to my problem.

I could send you more pictures, but you basically close all down all the valve covers except a -12 hose from one engine to the other. My pump is on the SS with a -12 line from the SS valve cover. With all the rigging, catch can, hoses, pop-off valves, vacuum control valve, gauge and line, fittings, brackets, overboard venting, etc. the total project cost is in the $1500-2000 range. The newest Moroso pump is a much better piece than what I started with.
If you are out of projects and are a neat freak, this is a great way to burn some cash...not sure I would do it again.