Pushrods
 

stock 330 , gen IV , stock cam
upgrading heads to 70's vintage 049 heads
stock valves / rocker arms / springs

do i need to get the adjustable pushrod to measure for correct pushrods
or do i stay with the stock size in the motor now
i'm gonna buy new pushrods either way , just dont want to buy things i cant use

pushrods
 

i rebuilt my 330hp motor a couple years ago and used manly .080 heavy wall pushrods.i am running a crane cam,hyd,flat tapplet.i think as long as you stay w/hyd cam these pushrods will work.

mines a stock cam , is it hydrolic?

these pushrods should be ok.with a 330 motor you could probley get by with a thinner pushrod,but i would stay w/the .080 pushrods,not that much diffrence in price.my engine tells me as long as you stay stock,do not get to wild w/milling heads,decking the block,milling the intake,you should be fine.as you know most 330hp motor,s have a cast crank,and small[peanut heads].,two bolt mains.you can probley make about 400hp with this block and be ok.hope this helps.brad

i was mostly thinking about the length of the pushrods , not the thickness.

the peanut heads are going to be my new boat anchors , there being pitched for large oval cast iron heads , cam remains the same and exhaust is tubular headers , intake will be hi-rise single plane with a 750 holley , i'm guessing with the stock cam i should be around 380-400 hp
if it doesnt grenade the first time i start it (my first build)

2 winters ago I put a set of 781 heads (large oval port, open chamber just like your 049s) on my 1989 330hp 454. I used the stock push rods and have had 2 trouble free seasons on them.

Yes, your lifters are hydraulic.

If you are keeping the stock cam and reusing the lifters, make sure that they go back in the exact hole that they cam out of.

If you are getting new lifters, make sure you break them in properly or you will flatten a lobe on the cam and that will hand grenade a new motor.

If everyhing is staying constant, then you can go back with the same length pushrods.

You aren't installing roller rockers and studs. You might as well while you have it apart.

Good luck with your project.

I just built one almost exactly to what you are doing, but I put in a bigger cam.

http://www.offshoreonlyclassifieds.c...o21326-en.html

If you are going through all that work, you should install a new and bigger cam as well. You can get a new flat tappet cam and lifters for $200.

I agree. .560 / 240 - 112 or pretty close, is a great cam in a 454. I prefer solid lifter, but $200 is baout right. Sometimes less, depending on the cam grinder.

the way my brain works , i dont want to go too nuts with the cam / top end , cause i still have a cast crank , cast pistons , thin rods , and about 500 hours on em
as with all boaters i want to find the most horsepower and the least chance for missing a weekend on the water come spring

and if i change the cam , then i definatly need to use the special pushrod to measure to see what length pushrods i need right?

You still are not going to make that much power. It will be around 500 + -.

As long as you are using flat tappet style lifters then the pushrods will stay the sme length.

Best way to check is to mock up the engine, stick a pushrod in the hole and set the rocker on top and check for clearance and position.

Shouldn't have to change anything though.

I have an engine in my magnum right now that is a 2 bolt main and I spun it up to around 7K yesterday under load and it didn't break.

You can make decent power with that stuff. Just don't try and run it for 500 hours between rebuilds.

You can get a pretty good crank out of the Summit catalog for 2-300.

E24,

Is the engine still in your boat or did you pull it? The only reason I didn't change my cam 2 years ago is because I left the engine in the boat and it was impossible to get the cam out.

If I had my engine out of the boat, I'd re-cam with something slightly bigger that set peak power right at 4,900-5,000rpm.

Are you/have you ported your heads?

engine is gonna come out of the boat , its gotta be easier to do heads when you can tilt the engine so the head isnt sliding off while your trying to put head bolts in
plus i'm gonna put a new oil pump in and so on and so forth
heads are gonna stay stock for now.

Heads shouldn't be sliding off anything. Do you have the dowel pins in the block?

I have a great cam for you if you decide to get one. PM me and I'll get you hooked up.

Are you going to put in new pistons also. Those 330 pistons are really low compresion. You could get away with 9.-9.5:1 and really wake that thing up.