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Hydraulic steering or counter rotation?
Greetings,
I'm in the process of building / restoring an old Formula. It has twin Alpha 1's with the OEM steering ram controlling both drives (tie bar). With the stock motors, the boat pulls HARD to the right. I have rebuilt one of the engines so far (450hp) but the 2nd motor is untouched. My question is... Should I build the second motor as a reverse rotation engine, or leave it and go with hydraulic steering? If I go the engine route, I will also have to locate an Alpha1 gen 1 reverse rotation drive as well as a new cam and starter. I think the cost will probably be about the same as hydraulic steering..? What do you guys recommend? Thanks! --Rainmann |
Ok to answer part of my own question - apparently you don't need a counter rotating engine with the Alpha's. Apparently the change of direction is handled in the lower unit. So, standard rotation engines, with one running a CR lower unit should take care of that.
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Correct, you need a counter rotation alpha lower. You probably need hyd steering as well. 450hp is a lot of power for alphas. I would keep a spare drive.
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Probably so - I am shopping around for a hydraulic system that won't cost me 5k.... Any suggestions?
The motors are definitely going to be hard on the Alpha's, but I do have a couple of spares. Just not the CR lower units. |
I hope you have paid up your Sea Tow dues. 450 hp with Alphas is not a question of if but rather when they will explode.
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Rainmann, as stated all mercruiser stern drive engines are left hand. I would get the counter lower first. Good news is the left hand lower is a little tougher than the right.
Counters will get the boat to run better and will put less strain on your steering. |
Rainmann
I have an 85 Formula 272 with Alpha one, Gen 1's, std rotation with 350 mags. I am about to change the port drive to CR for speed, since my boat does not pull at all. I could let go the stearing wheel just about any speed and it still no pull. I wouls also check your trim tabs and your skeg alignment, as well as the distance on your tie bar. Measure the outside drive and the inside stearing arm holes. (the pins) They should be the same. |
i had a 26' nova w/twin 350's pulled alot had to hold on to the wheel. it also leaned to the port side pretty good. counters are much better,not even close. u probably won't need the new steering with counterrotating drives unless your going over 70
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Paradox, You are right to a certain degree that something is likely worn, but a lot of boats will pull hard to the right with both drives in RH rotation even when everything is the way it should be. The problem is not while running, but when backing out of the throttle. My brother has an older Nova with twins that doesn't have CR, both gimbals have been rebuilt, steering is excellent condition, and it has a tie bar with no slop. His still pulls a pretty nasty turn when dropping from WOT to idle quickly. Whenever I drive it, I compensate by backing out of the port motor a little ahead of the starboard, but in an emergency situation, pulling out of the throttles all at once can be unnerving and potentially cause its own set of problems. CR is the way to go.
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I had an old 1979 formula 26 and changed it to counter rotating alpha drives. It made a huge difference in ride attitude. When you go over a wave the boat would be a little squirrely with the two rights. After the swap to counter rotation, the boat would fly more level and straight, and not want to wander around as much. definately a move I would make if I was you. You may want to consider putting the counter on the starboard side if speed is what you are after.
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I changed to a counter rotation Alpha 1 and it made a huge difference. The on and off throttle twitch disapeared. Much more relaxing to drive. My next step is to build a set of stroker small blocks.
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I'm going to switch my Nova II over to a counter-rotation drive this spring also. Would you guys suggest turning out, or in?
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question about hydraulic steering, i have internal hydraulic steering, i guess the tie rod deal, but a lot of people have these rams on the outside, what is the diffrence/ benefits?
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I run my CR lower on the starboard side. It gives a little more stern lift and is easier to control around the docks. Remember that you have to reverse your shifter when you put on the CR lower.
There are three types of steering. Cable internal hydraulic uses a rack and cable from the helm to a stern hydraulic cylinder inside by the gimble. Cable external hydraulic uses the same helm cable to activate the one or two external hydraulic cylinders. And full hydraulic uses a hydraulic helm back to the external cylinders. If your going 70 plus you should consider external hydraulic for safety reasons. I'm trying to work it into my budget when I repower. |
out usualy handles better, in might get you 1-2 mph . you just have to experiment
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the only way to know which way you will like the props turning is to try both ways. you have to switch the drives (or at least the lowers) to change rotation. try all your props turning in and write everything down. then try all your props out and write everything down. then make your decision on how you want to leave it. alot of work, but can be worth it
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The only thing bothering me about the original post is two right-hand rotation propellers should make the boat heel to the LEFT. Something else is wrong here.
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Originally Posted by Edward R. Cozzi
(Post 2475794)
The only thing bothering me about the original post is two right-hand rotation propellers should make the boat heel to the LEFT. Something else is wrong here.
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Thats what mine does with two RH drives. It heels left, the only real time I feel the pull is exiting waves on Lake Michigan. Other wise on flat water. I can let go of the wheel and it stays the course. But as I add more horsepower to the boat, I can tell this is going to be more and more of a problem. SO it time to reverse my thinking (get it) O,h.... that joke was SO BADD!!!!!!!
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Originally Posted by yikes
(Post 2473343)
I run my CR lower on the starboard side. It gives a little more stern lift and is easier to control around the docks. Remember that you have to reverse your shifter when you put on the CR lower.
There are three types of steering. Cable internal hydraulic uses a rack and cable from the helm to a stern hydraulic cylinder inside by the gimble. Cable external hydraulic uses the same helm cable to activate the one or two external hydraulic cylinders. And full hydraulic uses a hydraulic helm back to the external cylinders. If your going 70 plus you should consider external hydraulic for safety reasons. I'm trying to work it into my budget when I repower. Note: You only reverse the shifters if you are running bravos. The shifters are not reversed for alpha counter rotating drives. I have a question that was brought here on the thread. I have the alpha's turning in and the boat always leans to the starboard side. If I turned both drives out, would that correct my lean? |
Typically if the boat leans to the starboard, thats an indication that the driver/operator needs to loose some weight. :p If the boat is listing to the port, best thing you can do is NEVER say a thing to your wife! O'h and yes, good idea, blame it on the drives...
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haha g1
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Originally Posted by JimmyBaja
(Post 2477402)
Note: You only reverse the shifters if you are running bravos. The shifters are not reversed for alpha counter rotating drives.
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you absolutely must change the shifters on a counter rotation alpha. CCstinger is correct. I've been there & done that.
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