If you still have carb problems, let me know. For $100 and your old core, I will send you a fresh one, but it sound like you are in good shape.

Kepp tuning her and keep the top end in mind when you are tuning props. Single engine's don't jump on plane.

They catch up and leave everyone else in the dust. :cool-smiley-011:

If you still have carb problems, let me know. For $100 and your old core, I will send you a fresh one, but it sound like you are in good shape.

Kepp tuning her and keep the top end in mind when you are tuning props. Single engine's don't jump on plane.

They catch up and leave everyone else in the dust. :cool-smiley-011:

if that was in fact a blower carb, the power valve circut has been boost referenced, and will not work properly on your set-up, basicly they run a vacume line out of the metering block to a vucume source in the intake, vs the internal passage thru the carb, not sure what would have to be done to put it back the way it was. as far asthe jetting is concerned, it's already way richer than a reg carb, go to holley and find out the the stock jetting..start there..it will be very close as these are rich to begin with...good luck Rob

also forgot, that victor jr intake is a terrible choice for your app, moves your power band way to high..you are going to making less usable power than before at the normal operating range....use a performer or rpm air gap...

Hopefully next weekend (weather permitting) i'll test this whole setup out , with my 23 pitch prop
i did read all about the Victor Jr intake before deciding to go with it , again my boat is very light and a 120hp 4 cyl would get it on plane , i was leaning toward making my horsepower above 4000 rpm , with the small valves in ther head and stock cam i should have the torque to get the boat up there if i prop it correct
i'm now into the test part of the spring , if the intake leaves me that flat on the bottem end , its back to ebay and new set of gaskets , 150 bucks again , less then the fill-up on the boat i have to do saturday :)

oh yea , and for the plumbing to the front power valve , i did make sure that it was there from the metering block thru the base plate , check ball and all is there for working off the manifold pressure

stripper is probably right about that carb. You can look at the metering block and tell if it has been drilled out. If it has, you will need to change the metering blocks back to stock size and start from there.

Intake will be fine. It will be sluggish on the bottome but it will scream on top. I have notice that with mine.

Go have fun. :D

you will need to remove the base plate and see iff it has been grooved from one passage over to another to change vacume signal, I just got the sheet from holley on doing it as I'm putting together a blower motor as we speak...I have seen dyno pulls with intakes..and unless you are going to spin that engine in the 6500 range that intake will still cost you power in the normal 55-6000 rpm range in that cubic inch engine...Rob....also I have the boost referencing diagram if you need to see what they do shoot me a email @ [email protected]

i removed and checked the baseplate of the carb during the rebuild , there is definatly a check valve and vacuem passage going from the carb opening of the intake to the back side of the power valve on the primary side of the carb
as for the intake , if it seems flat in the rpm range that i need power (3500-5000) , then i hit e-bay for a different intake and when i swap em this one will hit e-bay for the next guy

i am really appriciating all the input , keep it coming
and anyone close to the potomac (ezstriper i'm looking in your direction) on sunday , if weather people are correct i'll be testing in the water , maybe someone wants to hang close to tow me in when this thing grenades?

Matt, you have to have faith!!! :cool-smiley-011:

Thats the same arguement for not having insurance right?
naa seriously , it sounds soo good on the hose i dont think i'll have a problem on the water , but a back up plan is always a good thing