|
Redline Oil
Red Line's products are unique because they contain polyol ester base stocks, the only lubricants which can withstand the tremendous heat of modern jet engines. These synthetics have a natural multigrade property which allows our chemists to avoid bulking up an oil with unnecessary additive packages. ZDDP is 1,400 ppm and they add moly too. My engines run cooler then other oils I have tried.
I have been using Redline High Performance Oil (Not to be confused with the Racing Oil that is detergent free,...as non-detergent oils are a bit more friction free)... I have to say I am impressed with their oils and like their 2 stroke oil as well. The flashpoint of 20W-50 is about the same as M-1's V-twin. V-Twin is about a "55"wt oil and Redline is about a "50 wt" oil based on cst's @ 100*C. Cost is about the same. I hear Autozone sells it as well. They also make a 15W-50. Anyone have experience with Redline to share? Fyi.. I have been getting it in case lots form their online site. I think the one thing I like about it most is that it stays "cleaner looking" on the dipstick vs. many other synthetics I have used. http://www.redlineoil.com/products_m...1&categoryID=1 |
Using the 15-50 Redline in many of my cars for many years.. Still use it in a Street/DE trackday car with no issues to date.. The motor has about 300k miles, and still does not burn oil. That is not marine engine, but like I said, is a combo street/trackday car that is driven very quickly and at high rpm's..
I also buy it by case, and also use the ATF.. Hope that helps, R |
I started using Amsoil in my truck mostly because of the longer oil life - 7,500miles over mobil's 5,000. Then I got to reading that it is supposed to decrease fuel consumption. That stuff really works - I'm getting an extra 30-50 miles on the one tank.
|
redline was and remains a very popular racing oil in the forms of racing that i was involved with for 25 years. we tested it every way from sunday both on the dyno back to back against several other types and did longetivity and wear testing in the field. we found it to be an inferior product in all respects. the gearboxes wore out in 1/3 of the time vs normal petroleum based gear oils and the engine wear was also similarly accelerated , in some cases on the small displacement, hi reving motors like the cosworths as much as 50 % ... i.e. to say we would see unacceptable bore wear and ring wear at half the hours/milage as other good oils. their claim to fame was always " more power" but certainly the dyno never said so nor did the performance on the race track.
the single best oil we ever saw in service were the NEO synthetics sold by Baker in california. tolerance to heat was simply unbelieveable and in one case where the driver lost the belt on the dry sump while leading he ran the last two laps w/ zero oil pressure and won with the only damage being that the cam and lifters turned bright blue and there was the most minor bearing scuffing. when we ran the V-6 buicks in the 24 hrs of daytona, i remember taking the motors apart after 24 hours of non stop 8250 rpm racing and finding the bearings still had the pencil marks on them where i had noted the clearences and the rings had zero wear. problem was the cost was outrageous and the shipping was impossible. the mobile 1 synthetics were cheap by comparison and off the shelf everywhere and were 99% as good. when the redline guys sponsored the drivers with oil and cash, we sold the oil for more cash , used the mobile 1 in the cars and ran the redline stickers as per the contracts. we never tested or ran the amsoil simply because their hype turned me off so badly that it made me hate them without any good reason... and we were more than happy w/ the mobile 1 products anyway. its what i run in the boat now... |
I did a dyno test myself once on oil,we built a "factory stock" small block 355" chevy for a circle track car. We took it (the whole car) to baker engineering in Nunica mi for exstensive chassis dyno tuning. Motor had valvoline 40 wt racing oil in it for the majority of our 7 hour test session. We advanced/retarded the cam,turned timing up/down,jetted up/down,carb spacers,air cleaners,stub stacks,you name it. When we got their the car put down around 232 hp and I don't remember the tq,all our test we did HOT (220-230 degrees) because thats how the car ran on the track. After endless pulls and tuning we were making 242 or 244 hp (from what I can remember). We drained the oil out and replaced it with equal weight sentinel synthetic,a low production hardly known oil I have used for years. Its claim to fame is its fully synthetic and has a high content of "indefinately suspended" molybendmium disulfide. We ran car on chassis dyno for 25 minutes or so to work it inand also marked the oil pan,manifold,air cleaner,water neck etc with a grease marker to shoot infrared readings on with our temp gun. Once the temps were as close to identical to previous pulls we made a couple dyno pulls,we picked up 16-18 hp average at peak ( (at the tires) and pretty much a equal amount of torque.The power also increased all the way up and down the power band incrementally. THe dyno operator BEFORE we made the sythetic pulls told us he had seen every kind of common synthetic oil tested on the dyno and it would be a miracle if we even saw 3 hp. After the pulls he couldn't believe it but still told us because he had never heard of the stuff he would never run it in anything )I would think he would want to know more about it if he had never seen a oil make a hp difference). I still sell the stuff to all the local guys running circle track factory stocks,lead sleds and sportsmans. We never used it much in any of the higher classes like limited late models/supers because they are running real fancy low tension rings and it seemed to cause problems with oil control,Smitty
|
I started using Brad Penn at the request of my engine builder....seems to be good stuff. Anybody have any comments on this oil???
|
Originally Posted by stevesxm
(Post 2627180)
redline....we found it to be an inferior product in all respects. the gearboxes wore out in 1/3 of the time vs normal petroleum based gear oils and the engine wear was also similarly accelerated... i.e. to say we would see unacceptable bore wear and ring wear at half the hours/milage as other good oils. their claim to fame was always " more power" but certainly the dyno never said so nor did the performance on the race track.
the single best oil we ever saw in service were the NEO synthetics sold by Baker in california. ...problem was the cost was outrageous and the shipping was impossible. the mobile 1 synthetics were cheap by comparison and off the shelf everywhere and were 99% as good. when the redline guys sponsored the drivers with oil and cash, we sold the oil for more cash , used the mobile 1 in the cars and ran the redline stickers as per the contracts.... When we started running Mobil One in our CART program in 1990, we traded drums and cases of it to other teams in return for their other sponsors products (beer, mostly). I'm pretty sure that Mobil One was in the crankcase of almost every car in CART, regardless of whether or not it had a "Valvoline", "Shell", or whatever sticker on it. The Mobil guys knew it, and figured that they won almost twice as many races as they could legally claim! |
i really like the mobile 1 stuff. when we ran firebirds in imsa the difs had to be stock and would burn up almost routinely . we finally figured out not to use the magic stuff that GM was giving us and just used the mobile 1 and the problem , for all intents , disappeared.
i run the mobile 1 delvac in the boat... accorning to my guy at mobil it was for the most severe duty diesel applications... which for the loads the boat motor sees, sounded about right. my motors are injected and the oil stays beautiful clean. last time i had the valve covers off to look around , everything looked brand new at 275 hours |
Originally Posted by 40FlatDeck
(Post 2627829)
I started using Brad Penn at the request of my engine builder....seems to be good stuff. Anybody have any comments on this oil???
It is a parafillic oil with average ZDDP. I prefer Castrol GTX or Valv VR-1 |
Originally Posted by C_Spray
(Post 2627944)
Sounds like RedLine is trading wear for less friction in high-stress (pure racing) applications where bearing areas are reduced to absolute minimums. This is a key point in this discussion, as most production-based engines (like boat engines) are designed with a generous margin on bearing area, psiton ring widths/tension, etc. Purebred racing engines like Cosworth/Ilmor Indy engines, the racing Buick V6's, Formula One, etc. tend to be build to the very edge, where the oil's film strenghth and lubricity are all-important.
When we started running Mobil One in our CART program in 1990, we traded drums and cases of it to other teams in return for their other sponsors products (beer, mostly). I'm pretty sure that Mobil One was in the crankcase of almost every car in CART, regardless of whether or not it had a "Valvoline", "Shell", or whatever sticker on it. The Mobil guys knew it, and figured that they won almost twice as many races as they could legally claim! |
I am trying Redline and will do an Oil Analysis...I read where it and Vr-1 Valvoline are the one's to use...V-twin as well of course...IF you wanted the premium of premiums.
Also the Mobil-1 Oil that race cars use is called M-1 5W-30r...it is stuffed with ZDDP unlike the regular M-1 10W-30 that only has 800 ppm and would tear the rollers to shreads in an all out NASCAR race. I have not been able to find a source for M-1 10W-30r...but Amsoil's Signature 5W-30 wt Series 2000 is essentially the same..@ $10/qt. |
Originally Posted by Hydrocruiser
(Post 2628197)
SO you are referring to their Racing oil and not the HP oil?
|
Originally Posted by Hydrocruiser
(Post 2628201)
Also the Mobil-1 Oil that race cars use is called M-1 5W-30r...it is stuffed with ZDDP unlike the regular M-1 10W-30 that only has 800 ppm and would tear the rollers to shreads in an all out NASCAR race...
|
Originally Posted by C_Spray
(Post 2628433)
Mobil One 5w30 is one of the toughest ones out there, according to Bill Maxwell. The only one that VW approved for their turbo deisel SUV. Sounds like a good starting point.
Note ZDDP levels on Mobil's chart. M-1 0W-40 is Porsche. Many European vehicles. HT/TS applications. Viper approved. 1000ppm of Zinc and Phos If I were running a European Turbo ie VW/Audi/Porsche'/MB/BMW.....it would have M-1 10W-40 MXT4. 1600ppm of both Zinc and Phos. It is 20W-50 V-twin's brother but in a 40 weight. http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...4T_10W-40.aspx |
Originally Posted by stevesxm
(Post 2627180)
redline was and remains a very popular racing oil in the forms of racing that i was involved with for 25 years. we tested it every way from sunday both on the dyno back to back against several other types and did longetivity and wear testing in the field. we found it to be an inferior product in all respects. the gearboxes wore out in 1/3 of the time vs normal petroleum based gear oils and the engine wear was also similarly accelerated , in some cases on the small displacement, hi reving motors like the cosworths as much as 50 % ... i.e. to say we would see unacceptable bore wear and ring wear at half the hours/milage as other good oils. their claim to fame was always " more power" but certainly the dyno never said so nor did the performance on the race track.
the single best oil we ever saw in service were the NEO synthetics sold by Baker in california. tolerance to heat was simply unbelieveable and in one case where the driver lost the belt on the dry sump while leading he ran the last two laps w/ zero oil pressure and won with the only damage being that the cam and lifters turned bright blue and there was the most minor bearing scuffing. when we ran the V-6 buicks in the 24 hrs of daytona, i remember taking the motors apart after 24 hours of non stop 8250 rpm racing and finding the bearings still had the pencil marks on them where i had noted the clearences and the rings had zero wear. problem was the cost was outrageous and the shipping was impossible. the mobile 1 synthetics were cheap by comparison and off the shelf everywhere and were 99% as good. when the redline guys sponsored the drivers with oil and cash, we sold the oil for more cash , used the mobile 1 in the cars and ran the redline stickers as per the contracts. we never tested or ran the amsoil simply because their hype turned me off so badly that it made me hate them without any good reason... and we were more than happy w/ the mobile 1 products anyway. its what i run in the boat now... |
Originally Posted by Hydrocruiser
(Post 2627114)
Red Line's products are unique because they contain polyol ester base stocks, the only lubricants which can withstand the tremendous heat of modern jet engines. These synthetics have a natural multigrade property which allows our chemists to avoid bulking up an oil with unnecessary additive packages. ZDDP is 1,400 ppm and they add moly too. My engines run cooler then other oils I have tried.
I have been using Redline High Performance Oil (Not to be confused with the Racing Oil that is detergent free,...as non-detergent oils are a bit more friction free)... I have to say I am impressed with their oils and like their 2 stroke oil as well. The flashpoint of 20W-50 is about the same as M-1's V-twin. V-Twin is about a "55"wt oil and Redline is about a "50 wt" oil based on cst's @ 100*C. Cost is about the same. I hear Autozone sells it as well. They also make a 15W-50. Anyone have experience with Redline to share? Fyi.. I have been getting it in case lots form their online site. I think the one thing I like about it most is that it stays "cleaner looking" on the dipstick vs. many other synthetics I have used. http://www.redlineoil.com/products_m...1&categoryID=1 "Cleaner looking" doesn't mean ****. Do an oil anaylsis. Color doesn't mean anything. You can two surgically clean pieces of metal, put a drop of oil between them, rub them together, and the oil will turn black, its a chemical reaction, it doesn't mean the oil is dirty. |
Originally Posted by C_Spray
(Post 2627944)
Sounds like RedLine is trading wear for less friction in high-stress (pure racing) applications where bearing areas are reduced to absolute minimums. This is a key point in this discussion, as most production-based engines (like boat engines) are designed with a generous margin on bearing area, piston ring widths/tension, etc. Purebred racing engines like Cosworth/Ilmor Indy engines, the racing Buick V6's, Formula One, etc. tend to be built to the very edge, where the oil's film strenghth and lubricity are all-important.
When we started running Mobil One in our CART program in 1990, we traded drums and cases of it to other teams in return for their other sponsors products (beer, mostly). I'm pretty sure that Mobil One was in the crankcase of almost every car in CART, regardless of whether or not it had a "Valvoline", "Shell", or whatever sticker on it. The Mobil guys knew it, and figured that they won almost twice as many races as they could legally claim! |
all the hendrick cars have M1 in them. i have stood there and seen it with my own eyes.
|
I ran Redline Sythetic Gear Oil in my Sanger's Casale V-Drive, didn't run water cooling through the box and never had a heat problem, used to heat up running Fuchs but not Redline, I'm going to run it in my Bravo 1 as well.
What does everyone else recommend to run in the Bravo 1? |
Amsoil dealers for years have spread a lot of false information around as far as who actually uses their oils. Mobil 1 is used in more professional racing teams than any other oil I can think of.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...23#Post1353523 Wow! what a race, one of the best I've seen in a long time, and I could not be more pleased with the results. I'm on a borrowed computer so will post more when I return home after February 3d, but here is a quick oil report. Prototype cars: The first and third place Brumo Porsches use a special synthetic formulation of Kendall GT-1 made for them by Conoco. The second place Lexus/Riley uses a special Texaco syntheic made by Chevron. All of the other Prototype cars, Ford, Pontiac, Porsche, and Lexus powered used Mobil 1. And not just some special oil, but the exact same product that Valvoline says is no good. That's right, regular Mobil 1 5W-30. I walked through every pit garage and asked every one of them and a few showed me the cases of oil and I saw one of them pouring it in. They also all use Mobil Delvac 1 75W-90 gear oil. All of the GT cars except for 4 or 5 also used Mobil 1 5W-30, 10W-30, or 0W-40. The cars that did not use Mobil 1 either used Castrol Syntec or Motul. In the Koni Challenge Class that raced on Friday, most use Mobil 1 with a few using either Motul or Red Line. The only car that I saw using any Valvoline product was the Mustang of Jack Rousch Jr. So, conclusion for me is, Mobil 1 may not work in your grocery getter but it sure darn works in those high dollar race cars. I will post more when I return home and after my son sends me the disc with the over 400 pictures we took, I will try to post some of them. If you have never been to this race I highly recommend you go. It's not just a race, it's a happening. Johnny |
I personally like the redline oils.....from my own experiences it has worked best for me so far. I have tried amsoil and redline in outdrives..both TRS units....the first time i used redline was when i blew the lower unit on my TRS....i had new gears overnighted to me and tore it down with home made tools and slapped it together with no manuals or tools to check clarences...just so i could get back on the water for the weekend....filled the drive with shock proof heavy and crossed my fingers it would hold. Babied the drive all weekend and on the last day say "screw it" and did a full speed run to get my speed fix. Not only did the drive hold, but i ran it the rest of the season (about a month here in IL) and gave it to BAM for rebuilding during winter. He told me there was very little wear on the lowers but it did have pitting/rusting on the uppers from what he said was probably there before the lower blew. That sold me on the oil right there :D
I ran Amsoil in a friends TRS cig because he bought the oil and heard good things about it.....after the first day out the drive was all chalky on the uppers (No drive showers) indicating it was running hot. Never had that problem before using the merc HP oil before.....so we drained it and it had a funky almost burnt smell to it...still "looked" fairly clean but we didnt want to take any chances.....i filled his drives with the redline heavy i had, and all problems went away. I am currently trying the Royal Purple in my daily driver...in the trans, engine, and the rear axle. I have to say i am a little disappointed thus far. The engine oil seems to "evaporate" a little faster then any oil ive used thus far. The trans i had rebuilt by a certified GM tech and is running 100% synth....it too is having "issues" on real cold days its like it doesnt want to shift between the gears till it warms up...and the shifts between 1-2 and 2-3 have a "slip" to them...almost like the trans is releasing the bands early and not catching the next gear fast enough ... funny thing is i put 10k miles on the trans with the syth.....i drained it all out(as much as i could anyway) and put redline in...and it all went away...trans runs perfect now. The rear end i will let ya know in the spring when i change fluids but it seems to me my factory posi unit is not operating properly. This oil is supposed to have the additive in there yet i have no posi... :confused: but again that i have to investigate.... Also one other note.......i originally started using redline on my 1999 chevy crewcab dually w/454. As soon as i got 1000 miles on it i switched it over to redline.....now i cant say for certain that the oil was the reason...but my engine since new for that 1000 miles always had a small "stumble" to the idle if you want to call it that...it would shake slightly every so may hundred rpms......when the redline went it it all went away...again i dont know if it was the oil or the computer re-learned my driving habits or if the engine "broke it" better....but that again sold me on the oil. So theres my story :D |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:34 PM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.