What makes a good V-bottom?
 

Now that I've got all the bugs out of my new engine, and found a prop that seems to work well (no more blowout issues), I think I've managed to put good power into a floating brick.

Since this is my first fast boat, I'm happy to chalk this up to "lessons learned" so that I am better equiped to move up at some point.

The lesson I am trying to learn right now is: What makes a good conventional V-hull? I mean, in a short boat with no steps, it's hard to figure out why one boat would be fast and another miserably slow? Assuming the bottom is straight, what other factors are there?

Obviously V angle plays a big role. The deeper the V the softer the ride, the shallower, the faster. Someone told me that in a fast V, the inner strakes won't extend all the way to the transom? What else?

Any good examples of good fast V bottoms in the 24-27 ft range? I remember at one point reading a comparison test of small single engine Offshores, where the Velocity outran all the other boats in the test, even though it didn't have steps.

Thanks

The 27 Activator can be very fast with the rite power. MRD has a yellow 27 now that goes well over 100. How fast do you want to go ?

My 26ft/280 Velocity has a full length pad and 4 full length strakes. It rides vary high and flat in the water. It is a vary fast hull by comparison to your Powerquest.
I have only driven my boat 3 times thus far so I'm not sure how it will handle the rough water...

Velocity makes a great hull. In my experience (true 26') on lake MI they handle the big stuff with ease. With the pad they are very fast. I personally would not buy a V without a pad. Without a pad a lot of boats run very wet.

well I definitly belong in the brick catagory..so no help here....

Yeah. I'm a member of the brick family as well.

• The less deadrise the faster it will be (but won't cut as well)
• The wider&longer the pad, the faster it will be.
• The lighter the hull is, the faster it will be. (especially if light in the bow)
• Lifting strakes are supposed to help but seems minor compared to deadrise,pad, and weight.
• The hull also needs to be straight. if there's a hook in the bottom, that will slow you down, plus it won't be as responsive to trim which will hold you back even more.

The fastest 28 single I've heard of is Tuffmarine's Tuff28. Ran 95+ with a stock 525. I think it weighs less than 4000lbs. Has a less than 24degree deadrise, maybe a pad too? no cabin, so light up front. That puppy flat hauls azz. The low freeboard/lower profile is not for everyone, but I think it rocks.

To answer your question there is a mix of many factors that make a good V. Design, balance, construction, set up, driver to name the basics. It is hard or impossible to appreciate the differences with out driving or at least riding in them. Even apparently identical boats will act different. The best ones have been refined over time. Also regionally boats are different to match the local water conditions. So if you ask a dozen people what one is best you are likely to get 11 different answers.

There are few great boats, many good boats and too many "just a boat" boats out there. Ride in as many as you can so you can appreciate a good or great boat when you ride in it.

strakes, weight, chines, balance, propulsion efficiency

24*deadrise!


I am not so much into speed as I am the boat's ability to get through rough chop.

I guess I am oldschool.

Like the older Magnums/Formulas/Cigs/Donzi's/Scarabs/Fountains.

I also like the ride of a 38 TG and Formula with steps.

The stepped bigger (42- 47' Fountains) are fine.

I'm trying to picture what "a full length pad" looks like? The bottom of the boat is flat for some width of the boat all the way from the transom to....where?

Do the strakes run through the pad? are there 4 strakes and two chines, or are you counting the chines as two of the strakes? I was told Strakes provide lift, but ad resistance and hence cost speed?