Whipple is the only lisc. company to do such a thing. If MEFI Burn or someone else can work and work to find the fuel and spark tables for all the different models, then thats great, but guarantee they won't be able to find all the other parameters needed in a modified tune. You can't just change an rpm limit on a stock cal, there's over 500 tables/parameters counting on the stock system running to stock rpm limit. Your up to the original programmer and base setup, did they even call out for the MAP pressure to go above 5 psi, or 10? If they did, did they even extrapolate the table? Chances are, no. The old MEFI 3 cals, if you just bumped rpm limit, you could go from 28deg to 38deg in the matter of 200rpm, could destroy engine. What about knock, and with the 555, the knock is incredibly complexed, is it filtering the right amount of noise past the load or rpm points that factory ran? Chances are, no.

In some cases, you may get away with whatever small change, but in the big picture, your playing with fire. It's not like a car that can only hold WOT for a few seconds, if a boat engine is not right, it doesn't make it. We spent gobs and gobs of money, and countless man hours to get where we are, only Mercury and PCM mfg have more knowledge on these.

On the 496 SC kit, can you run just 4psi for about 550HP?

Thanks for all the info Dustin.
How do the whipple supercharger kits and the raylar kits compare for price and hp?

Yes, 4psi will make right around 550hp, extremely safe, as is our kit in general. It's shipped out at 5psi, colder plugs, cooler stat, intercooled, run slightly rich (11:1), colder spark plugs and 25deg timing. Very safe.

Never tried to compare. Pretty hard to compare to the SC torque and throttle response. But I think you can do a Raylar 525hp for less than SC, but 600 is quite a bit more I think, but again I really have no idea. Both are great products.

:evilb:How 'bout a Raylar 525 with a SC?

Now your talking!!

Hey Dustin, if you don't mind me asking, what is the max EGT you would feel safe with? 496 with forged internals.

If your measuring at the head, with a accurate, open style sensor, then 1700deg F. If your using the gauges that go in the boats, no idea because they're not accurate. If your measuring after water has been introduced, really have no idea because its been cooled already.

Some will throw some #'s, but they really don't mean anything. Better off welding a bung in one collector, odd side, then getting af meter from Innovative motorsports, and measuring to make sure your no leaner than 12:1 on a forged motor, with sc, at WOT.