Break in oil?
 

Just getting ready to intitial start my Corsa's replacement engine. In the past I always used Castrol did run in on dyno, changed filter did another hour and then went to synthetic (Royal Purple or Mobil 1). Anyone have any thoughts? Engine is all new parts 540 CI 9:5 Mahle pistons dart block, Solid roller cam (900 SC) AFR heads. Fresh water cooled.
Thanks
Steve

I would use joe gibbs......Scorpion racing engines uses it and i would trust those guys with my life when it comes to marine hipro motors...

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...corpion+racing

My engine builder recommends using GM's Delco Engine Oil Supplement in the initial break-in. GM ships it with their crate motors, supposed to be good stuff, especially for lifters/valves/cams. I've used it in my last two engines and they ran great.

I use cheap straight 30w oil until we seat the rings on the dyno ,make a few pulls,you can see the metal in the oil when draining it,change the oil and finish the dyno session, change the oil with Val st 40 racing, and filter, put a few hours on it in the boat, the change it again,

The Chevy EOS oil have change #s....88862586, they sat the comp cams break in additive is good also,

Iv Been told a few times alto of engine builders use a diesel oil that has sulfur in it for better break in.

Yup Joe Gibbs BR

I used to always use Shell Rotella T and either Comp brake in fluid or GM EOS. Like Strip says when you cut the filter open after the initial run in you can usually see various types of metal particles in the filter element. Tried Joe Gibbs break in oil in a buddies 1200hp 615 race motor a couple weeks ago and when the filter was cut open it was mint, absolutely no metal particles. I bought a couple boxes.. :D

i have 540 dart 600 ponys i use Shell Rotella T

StipPoker 388 hit the nail on the head with his recommendations!! Use good oil for breakin, but don't spend a fortune for the exotic stuff, because you should be changing it it 4-10 hours anyway on break'in!

Regards,
Ray@ Raylar

This should be true in any properly machined and assembled engine, I dont care if you use the cheapest oil you can buy. The metal particles are from something that was not smoothed or deburred prior to assembly. One of the biggest culprits is the bottom edge of the cylinder bores. Most shops bore and hone the block and leave it at that. The sharp edge that remains will always scrape some aluminum off the nice new ($$) pistons :( We run a sanding roll around every block we do to break this edge. This is just one spot where metal can come from. A good engine builder will make sure there are no sharp edges anywhere.
The other source of metal is from insufficient cleaning prior to assembly. I dont care how hard you try, there is always a few specs of metal floating around from surfacing heads etc. The only way to get them out is with lots of hot soapy water.
We very rarely see anything at all in our filters on new engines that I assemble.

As far as the Gibbs oil goes, I think it is designed more for engines with flat tappet (non roller) camshafts. It is excellent for that purpose, but I dont think it is really needed for a hydraulic roller engine. Any good quality oil should be fine. Personally, I think the best oil should be installed from the very start. If cylinder walls are properly finished, the rings really should be almost sealed up on the engine stand. GM puts Mobil1 in every Cadillac and Corvette from the factory with no oil consuption issues. I have used it from the start in several engines with no issues whatsoever.

Just my opinion,

Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md

1.) A good break-in oil ought be high in ZDDP.

2.) The main reason is the removal of tiny metallic particles and ring and valve seating.

3.) The break-in period is usually 5-10 hrs.

Mercury 25W-40

Brad Penn 40wt or 20W-50

Valvoline 40wt or 20W-50

Kendall 20W-50

After break-in switch to a good fully synthetic like M-1 V-Twin or SilverCap 15W-50/ Amsoil 15W-50 or Redline 20W-50 etc.


FYI..I do know some major HP engine builders who pour in M-1 15W-50 for break-in.

My .02

ZDDP additive..it is good.

This tells the whole story right here !!!!!!!!!! :ernaehrung004:

[QUOTE

Iv Been told a few times alto of engine builders use a diesel oil that has sulfur in it for better break in.[/QUOTE]


Diesel oil or for that matter any engine oil does not have sulfur in it. Gear oil, thats another story. what do you think gives gear oil (GL-5) its odor?

If you had sulfur in you engine oil, condensation from running, combined with the heat from the engine would creat sulfuric acid and that is something you really don't want in your crankcase. Yes, engine oil is blended as a base (thats way they list TBN numbers) to counter act the effect of acid build up, there is some acid from the sulfer in fuel but even those numbes have been lowered drasticly, diesel included.
But to add sulfer in the oil, no way.

GM- EOS, a slug of zinc in a base oil.

Ken

Steve

A bunch of my guys have been using the JG break in oil with really good results...

Hey Steve....

540, hydraulic roller cam here...
Express Engines recommends VV851. But you can only get it from Napa; and $10 a quart for dino-oil.

Kent

ignoring all the folklore, the advice and observations above are precisely correct.