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Fogging fuel injected big blocks for winterization

Old 11-03-2008, 09:00 AM
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Default Fogging fuel injected big blocks for winterization

Can you fill the fuel water separator with 2 cycle oil and run the engine to fog it. If so how much 2 cycle do you put in the separator. Also can you drain the motors with the drain on the bottom(blue plastic wing nut plug), will this drain the whole motor including exhaust and water pump impeller housing then pour in antifreeze through the thermostat to fill block. Will this work and be safe like they are saying in this last issue of Powerboat?
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Old 11-03-2008, 10:48 AM
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Did mine this weekend.....Stabilized the remaining 10 gallons of fuel in the tank (no fogging oil). Ran it on the hose til at operating temp. Shut it down and drained it, then re-fired it on antifreeze. Then drained it again and removed the seawater pumps so new ones can be installed in the spring (or re-use these since they look good). this waws done right after I changed the oil and filters too.
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Old 11-03-2008, 12:44 PM
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I have the 6.2's, they have the drains on exhaust and thermostat housing and then one low one with the block plugs running to it.
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Old 11-03-2008, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Elite Marine
I prefer to drain it complete and then i fire it up on -100 glycol and then I drain it again...call me anal I guess!

No ....smart .....
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Old 11-03-2008, 06:43 PM
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Isn't it better to leave the antifreeze in the system, assuming it has corrosion inhibitors in it?
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Old 11-03-2008, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by MacGyver
Isn't it better to leave the antifreeze in the system, assuming it has corrosion inhibitors in it?
I drain the water first then fire it up on the antifreeze and leave it in for the corrosion inhibitors. And when its first fired in the spring I like the idea that the antifreeze is slippery for the sea water impeller to start turning in after sitting for a while.
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Old 11-03-2008, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by johnny b good
I drain the water first then fire it up on the antifreeze and leave it in for the corrosion inhibitors. And when its first fired in the spring I like the idea that the antifreeze is slippery for the sea water impeller to start turning in after sitting for a while.
That's why I remove the seawater pump for the winter...leaving the impeller sitting outside of the housing during the winter allows it to last alot longer than normal.
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Old 11-06-2008, 06:50 AM
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I've always used the water separator as the insertion point for fogging. I will drain out half the fuel and add a couple ozs of 2-cycle oil, fire up until smoking then shut down and replace the filter. However after burning a hole in the piston last year at the beginning of the season I have added sea foam to the mix as kirk has sudjested.
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Old 11-06-2008, 07:01 AM
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After reading this thread, this was what I did Tuesday night.
First I hooked up all the hoses from draining the water out last Sunday. Then I ran 3 gal of anti-freeze through using a bucket and hose.
Third I pulled off the fuel filter, dumped some gas out and filled it with 2 stroke oil. Then I ran 2 more gal of anti-freeze through as the 2 stroke oil hopefully "fogged the engine".
Last I changed the oil and fired it one last time until the oil pressure registered.
In the past I had sprayed fog through the throttle body but I guess that is not the best thing to do.
Thanks for the help...
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Old 11-06-2008, 08:07 AM
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I've never fogged an engine in my boat before. It sits inside, what does it hurt not to fog it?

P.S. Granted most of the time it's already blown up from the season, LOL...
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