Tinker are you still using your silent choice?

".....(WARNING THIS WILL MAKE YOUR EXHAUST VERY LOUD) ...."
Cool :p do it mike!

don't let waterfoul kid ya, he wants the sound just as much as the performance. good thing i wont be laying back behind him listening to that every monthly "poker run" we hold.


hey, how about this idea. poor man's silent choice. a solenoid valve to open when engine is cold, cooling the rubber pipes until the thermostat opens, then close it off for more noise, power, and speed?

i'm going to submit a patent for this idea, so don't steal it Waterfoul. you can be my test fixture;)

anyone ever dyno with/without the waterflow in the exhaust.....


oh...who cares,
it's all about:
step 1) looks fast - cheapest
step 2) sounds fast - costs $$
step 3) be fast - cost $$$$$$$$$$

Yes I still run my silent choice and THE WHOLE IDEA IS TO LESSEN THE AMOUNT OF WATER GOING TO THE EXHAUST. I havn't tried this on the newer style housing. TRAVIS you don't want to switch the hoses because that won't help and may cause condensation in your exhaust since you will be putting cold water into your exhaust instead of the engine water. With the new style housing what you could do is T the lines going to each exhaust manifold and run the line overboard. put a valve or some other device into the line to control the water flow.

Hey Tinkerboater,

Do you have the early model flappers in your Y-pipe (metal with pin and bushings) or the later type (composite rubber)? I have the later type in mine, and I'm concerned about burning them out of there if I reduce the water flow to them too much. Seems to me like it might be a good idea to route some water directly to this area to keep them from burning out. Not concerned much about water in the exhaust anyway when in thru-prop mode.

What are your thoughts?

Did you see any measureable gain when you made your changes?

Tinker.. Mine is impossiable to drill.. SO what I thought was using your idea but using a bypass hose instead of holes.

So what I thought of was drilling and tapping a hole into the top of #1 and #2. SO then I could fab a bypass hose ( 1/2" i.d. ) to carry water from #1 to #2 while the stat was still closed.. so the manifolds will have water while the stat is closed


and still just running the orignal riser hoses out to the dumps.


Hows that? or am i really confusing everyone LOL!

BUDMAN the flappers in the down pipes won't last -- most people just remove them -- I did and havn't had any problems.

Travis if you have the older thermostat housing you can drill them.

Did you see any measureable gains, or did it just make it louder? :D

Tinker... check your private messages..


:D

Cutting back on ther water will lean out the engine a little and will increase rpm. How much depends on the engine. But I have seen an increase on a stock engine with stock exhaust. Just watch the exhaust hoses because it is easy to burn them up. If the hoses are getting too hot just increase the size of the bypass holes.