Water in Gimbal area
 

I drained my Bravo 1 outdrive and it had water in the oil. I then pulled the outdrive, and see that there was water leaking in the sealed area by the U-joints. That also explains why I was getting water in my bilge area and could never find any leaks on the hoses. Boat is trailered, garage kept, freshwater use.

I am going to have the drive pressure tested and seals repaired, so that should take care of that. Besides changing the obvious O- rings where the drive attaches to the gimbal, what else do I need to do to seal it up again ? The gimbal boot looks almost new.

Do I have to replace the gimbal bearing since it has gotten wet? What part number ? U-Joints?

The spot on the shaft where the gimbal bearing rides looks like it is a little rusty. Not nice and clean.

The drive is a 2005 Bravo 1X drive . 260 hours on drive.

Any information on what I need to do to get things back to normal would be greatly appreciated.

I think you're right that the gimble bearing and u-joints are now suspect. They aren't supposed to be exposed to any water.

We had a bellows leak on our new boat and it destroyed the bearing and the ujoint was damaged too. This was salt water though. It was repaired to new condition under warranty by replacing the ujoint, the gimble bearing, seals and putting everything back together once it was greased properly. Haven't had any issues since (over 100 hours ago).

Fresh water will do the same, just might take longer. For peace of mind, I would replace at least the gimble bearing and probably the ujoint if it were me.

Good luck.

John

yep, new gimble bearing, u joints, new bellows, and seal kit, I just did mine, once they get water in their just replace everything

ditto.........we're doing that now for a cutomer........

I usually do my own work, but have never tackled a gimbal bearing, bellows or U Joints. Is this tough to do, or should I bite the bullet and have someone else do it?

Yes it is a straight forward job ,probably a 2 person job if you havent done it before.What leaked ?? Plenty of grease on the re install.

I did mine last year and replaced everything. Gimbal Bearing,
The grease seal that is behind the gimbal bearing which might get damaged anyways when you use a bearing puller to remove the gimbal bearing .Merc. sells a kit which includes a new shift cable which is an upgrade over the older style ones, a new shift cable boot, and o-ring kit for drive reinstallation.
You still have to get the u-joint and exhaust bellows separate.
I also used a heavy duty zip tie instead of the metal c-clip merc gives you for the shift boot clamp because they end up rusting. I also replaced my water intake hoses and drive bottle oil hose because they were getting a little stiff after 10 years.

I don't know how the water got in there. Last year I put all new o rings in when I did my yearly maintenance. Thought I sealed it up good and used lots of grease. Maybe I didn't get it sealed up right? The boat has always been kept indoors and the rubber boots all are still very flexible, but maybe they have a hole in them ? Only put 26 hours on this year and noticed the water when I started the maintenance this year.

I'm going to have the drive pressure tested and new seals where needed , and also have the U joints fixed by a Merc mechanic. I think I will tackle the gimbal bearing and seal kit.
I was thinking of getting a Bravo 1 service manual .
Which one do I need?
Drive Serial # OW 260740.
Any where else that I can get info on how to do this job would great.
I believe this is the gimbal bearing # I need 30-862540A3 ? If anyone has the part #'s I need please post them.
I want to learn how to do this and get it right.
Thank you
Steve

olmo & johnny b, did you use the merc special bearing puller or did you use something else. I was hoping not to have to buy their tool.

I borrowed an automotive bearing puller from Murrays discount auto stores. They dont charge anything to use it, as long as you bring it back. The tool worked ok, probably not as good as the merc. tool, but it did the job for me.

I seem to have a leak coming thru the transom where it looks like the tiller arm comes through. Anyone ever had to replace this? I'm told that Merc sells a kit where you have to dtill into the drive to repair it? Any help would be appreciated.

What did you use to install the new bearing and seal?

2x4

Rev'd Up.

Here is a post I made a few months back about my process. There might be some helpful things in there for you regarding the Gimbal Bearing and it's orientation, specifically Post #3.

http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/d...questions.html

Ten to one says this is the Swivel Seal. Both of mine are leaking and I have to replace over the winter. I am not aware that Merc sells a kit where you cut out the housing but I believe you are referring to the Ron Bender kit.

Here is the website: http://www.jrmarine.com/

I have never spoken with him but EVERYONE says he is the nicest guy and nothing other than a powerboat fan interested in helping other powerboaters. His kit is available off the website, otherwise you have to pull the engines. I am most likely just going to pull my Engines to do the job.....

I had the speedo connection leaking on mine for a season checked everything until I finally found it, it would only leak when going above 30-35 mph and the water seemed to be warmer than lake water. Turns out it was spraying on the back on the engine and dripping down, there is a white plastic connection in the transom plate that the hose connects to. Just something to check Steve

The swivel seal is a common one to go, The pin is stainless and cleans right up. I have one at the shop that needs to be done as well as the bushing. Merc does sell a kit , but now you are just adding holes for more water to potentially come in at. Best just to pull the engine and do it right. If you have ext. boxes you can do it with out pulling the engine.

I have used merc's kit and I have used JR 's kit both do work very well when ALL the work is done very neatly. The merc kit has two plastic pipe plugs that are on each side of the upper transom plate housing.You have to drill and tap these holes I think it was a 1/2 inch pipe tap, Which drilling and tapping can be easily misaligned and not an easy job for a first timer. The JR kit gives you good instructions,quality hardware. The only thing that I change on the kit is the fine thread socket head screws, to course thread, Because they are easier to tap into aluminum. You can seal up this area really good and I even put another merc decal over this plate with just the socket heads showing through and most people don't even notice it until you point it out.

thats how I did mine,

speedreeder how it going?,thanks for the help when I did mine.

boatnt, Glad to see everything worked out good for you! IMO I think that the rear plate that JR has is the cleanest and the most straight forward repair that is available!!!