standard crane or summitt roller rocker???
 

Has anyone ran the summit brand roller rocker for a big block chevy. I tring to decide on the cheaper pair of cranes race gold rollers or the summitt brand. Any suggestions Thanks Alec

thats a good question, their brand probably chinese, I did run a set of those a couple of years ago in a jet boat that i was playing with, but never put many hours on there..never had a failure, but I do run the gold cranes now....but years ago when I ran a super gas car I had issues with the gold cranes roller pin failing..on sevral rockers....using them now and no issues ?? so I guess talked a lot..told you nothing..Rob

i would stick with the cranes, unless we found out who made the summit brand, there are some cheaper knockoffs out there that have cheap needle bearings and dont last long

I know they are more expensive, but think hard about the time and money spent building these engines, and the true investimet you have. Crower and Comp. cams carry a life time warranty for their top of the line rockers. You might even look into some of Jesel's stuff they had some I thought were reasonably priced.

I have read that the Summits are built by Scorpion, made in the USA.

I used the Summit rockers in my 454mag that was hopped up to about 420hp. I ran them for about 125 hrs and the next owner ran them for a couple seasons after that. No problems that I know of. That being said, I probably wouldn't run them on anything more than about 500hp.

I am not the expert but I think it also depends on what type of cam, how much lift and spring pressure you are running along with max RPM. Harland Sharp makes a good set in my opinion also for the money.

What is the motor these will be going in?

I put ohio crank roller rockers, the builder said they were great, NOT , broke one on right bank and one on the left bank, just broke in the middle . know have crane gold work great . Dont go cheap it bits you

If you want, I have 2 sets of used Crane Gold wide body rockers. 7/16" studs, 1.7 ratio, clearanced for Big Block valve covers. They came stock on a pair of 575 SCi that I am rebuilding. They had 300 hours on them. They were replaced soley because we were in there, for insurance. The rollers roll fine, no visible signs of wear. $150 takes 1 set. We called Crane when we replaced them. They said they dont make this exact rocker anymore. The part # they sent in its replacement is 13750. I was going to put them on E-Bay soon.
A little disclaimer... We all know how important rocker arms are for an engine. We all know what happens when they break. With that said, although they seem fine, they are used. NO guarantee..

Crane Comp or Crower, Don't go cheep I tried that in a small block and it does not work. I used Proform rockers and push rods they look allot like Summit stuff. After 40 hours a rocker broke and three push rods had lost tips and they say that they are one piece push rods. You will save money in the long run. Just my $0.02 :drink:

I have summit brand bolted on my rebuilds. Time will tell I guess. They look nice enough, come in some fancy packaging.

We shall see.

$400 for Crane gold is just out of control.

On some things you get what you pay for .:rolleyes:

Crane gold or even JESEL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:ernaehrung004:

Comp Pro Magnum's are damn good!

Agree on the Comp pro mag

And on others you are simply paying for a name.

I know of a guy here locally who broke TWO comp (pro mag) rockers, a few hours on both when they went.

He gave up on them all together.

Your not buying Green Beans, Your buying engine parts . I had another motor to get me to the dock. If you dont you two have engines better get Tow Boat US. Just my $0.02 I went the cheep route and payed for it .

What he said almost !!!!!!!!!!:eek:

vinny p... contact me
 

never mind

I switched over to crane gold race roller rockers not the wide ones. Much better than summit.

Had you broken one of the summit brands?

Sure, I agree. Problem is, building a motor is one of the most NICKLE and DIME projects I have ever seen.

It's $200.00 for oil and filters, not to mention several $2,000 dollar parts orders, $1,500 in machine and head work, etc., etc.

Tried to save some coin where I could. Not everyone on this board has money coming out their ears.:cool:

Lots of places to cut corners on a boat and save money but in the engine is not one of them!!!!!! Let us know how much you saved after you break one and have to do the motor over again . :rolleyes:

Will do.

I'm sure I'm not the only person on the face of the earth who has used these parts.

And, tell me again, where is anyone able to SAVE money working on a boat? Things are a friggin PIT.

And I for one am not one of them If I had money coming out of my ears I would not have a 96 boat. I just know what cost me twice and trying to help others not make some of the same mistakes that myself and others have made. Going cheep in a motor WILL cost you in the long run.

I put Scorpions in my 490. 1.7 and 1.8 ratios. I got them from Clay Smith Cams and if I remember right, I paid less than $300.00 for them. Holding up just fine and they're made in the USA. Pt# for the set is SCP1040.

And I do appreciate the advice, didn't mean to make it sound like I didn't.

"cheap" is a relative term, there are no "corners cut" in my build, but I did NOT get the best of everything either.

Did you have summit rockers fail on you?

These are the EXACT same as the Summit house brand. I challenge anyone to prove me wrong.

http://www.mountainperformanceonline..._p/scp1014.htm

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...B&autoview=sku

(just saying) :party-smiley-004:

No I used Proform but they look just like the ones Summit sales , and yes they did fail 15miles from the dock .:mad:

Maybe you should go remote control!! You asked a question and a 100% of the replys have been dont go summit!! You asked a question a dont like the answers,not to be a smart a** but why ask if you have your mind made up. FYI the bleeding has just started,welcome to the performance boating world.
BOAT = BRING ON A NOTHER THOUSAND. :evilb:

Crower or comp cam by far. Whatever you do make sure it's at least a full roller. Full stainless is what I used to run. I never had a problem at all with them. I have had them in a lot of different engines and different types of setups from nitrous to blowers, drag to street cars, etc. I have since switched to Jesel. They are the best, but costly. The sportsman aren't good though so it all or nothing with them. I haven't ever run the cranes, but I got a set with heads I bought. The machine shop told me they aren't good and told me to sell them or throw them away. If I remember it was a problem with the roller and the body.

PJ,
They be made for summitt but they are different look at the pin that holds the roller in , it has little lines on the end of the shaft the summit brand is completely smooth no groves.

I debated this very subject when I was building my 509 last winter. After a lot of research I decided to go with the Summit rockers and have no regrets. They are American Made and have held up well. They are nothing like the Chinese Procomp rockers. Having said that, the Cranes are a proven design if you want to minimize your chances of a failure. However, nothing is guaranteed in a performance environment. I also believe research can only go so far, and after that there's only one way to find out! That's how things become proven.

Actually, I wasn't one that asked, I just chimed in because I am in the process of complete rebuilds, of which I chose the summit rockers after research.

So, my mind was made up WELL before this OTHER guy asked the question.

Truth of the matter is, this whole conversation is very typical of the on line forums. Put it this way, if someone pays top dollar for something, you really think they are going to just say: "sure, go a ahead and save a bunch of cash, they cheaper part will probably work just fine for your application"

HELL NO! It's human nature. If I buy the absolute best (most expensive) of something I'd probably respond the same way, "anything else is JUNK, you really need to drop massive coin like I did to really be sure.............."

30 yrs 6 performance hulls in the triple digits,20 yrs running super chargers, thats typical online forums !!
I could give a rats a** buy the cheap made in china crap and lets see how they hold up..BTW I have learned the hard way,fast and cheap have no place in a marine engine of any HP. What amazes me is the same person that cheaps out on internal engine parts will spend 1,000 of$$$$ on a stereo system or some other bling and will B*tch about his new rebuild when it fails.
Most hardcore engine builders use what they now works and dont listen to the boat owner because his name is on that engine once he builds it. I dont agree with your research but the best of luck with the Few $$ ya saved.

We found out the same way , Cheep does NOT WORK !!!! Best of luck to him .:evilb:

I have had Crane in everything performance motor I've own except once...guess what happen.:mad:

BTW, who said the OP was building a "performance" motor?

I didn't read that part.

Made in the USA or assembled in the USA.:drink:

My motors have the Crower alum and steel ones,Crane golds ,Lunita alum, and Harlem Sharps.Never broke any.:drink:

Thats like Crane lifter/tappets are assembled at Crane,someone like Eaton makes some of the parts/body's that go into building the tappet.

Also some may tell you its USA,how can you prove it?




?
http://www.shop.speedunlimited.com/S...d/0/rid/126429

Haven't come apart yet. I made it from the dock, two 25 minute runs, back to the dock.

So far so good. :kiss: