Rage

The stock 496HO comes with 1/2" ID hoses and fittings. I want to add a bigger oil cooler and increase to 5/8" ID hoses and fittings (preferably retaining the current oil filter mounting on the custom Dana billet aluminum brackets that came with the Dana exhaust manifold kit and which uses retains the stock oil hose connection fittings).

The hoses are simple. It is the hose to engine and oil filter connection points that are the problem that I need help with. There are four connection points/fittings. The in and out oil hose connection points at the remote oil filter and the in and out oil hose connection points at the engine.

If anyone has done this up grade I would very much appreciate to learn how it was accomplished and where to get the necessary conversion fittings.

Thanks in advance for any help.

liquidlounge

iTrader: (1)

If you are running a bigger cooler, I would use a thermostat. Something like a Mocal High Flow-High Temp (sandwich type) about $100.00. Mount it to the remote filter pad(change this to a Ford type) If you are running the cooler in the stock location you can have Lenco make you a high cap. cooler to your specs. really reasonable. Oil Flow: Starts from offsett hole on engine blk filter pad............returns into lg center hole. Most say to have water flow and oil flow going opposite directions through cooler. Take Care-Dave

Rage

Thanks for the info Dave.

I already have a thermostatically controlled Hardin Marine oil cooler I am hoping someone on OSO has previously converted from the stock 1/2" oil line plumbing to a 5/8" (or 3/4" for that matter) and knows what engine interface fittings are needed and more specifically where to get them.

Bill

stevesxm

henry's engineering in maryland has every fitting made... but you are wasting your time and money doing it and accomplishing absolutely nothing.

Kidnova

Gotta love stevesxms' subtle way of putting things LOL. But, I think he makes a good point. If your engine is stock I don't think you need the upgrade, unless maybe you run the bajeebers out of it. I'd say put an oil temp gauge on the engine and monitor oil temps. If your lines and or cooler are inadequate, the gauge will let you know.

I turned my 502 (ZZ502/502) into a 557 and replaced the stock Merc lines with all -12. More HP = more heat, and the change was necessary. But as stevesxm said so elequently you're probably spending $$ you don't need to spend......... JMHO

I'll see if I can stick a pic of the -12s here

GoCiggie31

I am running a very heavy deep v so at wot before I changed to -12, my oil temp was 40* higher. 4-my application, it was well worth the change over.
check out below site-good info

http://forums.boatfreaks.org/showthread.php?t=11055

Rage

I guess you are assuming that my engine is stock. It is not, except for the oil cooler and plumbing. It is now a bored and stroked 521ci with all forged internals, GM HP3 race engine heads ported by Jim Valako with increased diameter intake and exhaust valves, Raylar intake, Gen II HP3 race cam, high volume oil , Dana Torque Flow Vortex exhaust with #5 risers and spins 5800 rpm. Oil pressure heads south fast at any WOT runs of more than a few minutes. I need a much bigger oil cooler than the stock unit and the experts say I need a minimum of 5/8" oil line plumbing. That is the reason for my inquiry.

Thanks for the information on Henry's Engineering.

Rage

I forgot to mention that I am running Amsol Series 2000 20W50 full synthetic race oil.

Rage

Obviously a different engine but did you have to change the oil adapter (if your engine ever had one) to provide the appropriate -12 connection point?

Rage

Thanks for the site info.

What engine are you running?