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leak down test results on 500hp
my 2000 500 hps have 430 hrs on them, so i did a leak down on 1 motor today, keep in mind these have not been run since last september and it is in a non heated garage in pa. i got the garage up to about 60 and bumped motor over a few revolutions and did my test at maintaining 90 psi on the left guage and then took readings on right guage of leak tester with these results. should i be doing a complete refresh or run another year???? or retest after warming motors to temp??
1 5% 8 16% 4 5% 3 15% 6 8% 5 10% 7 12% 2 14% Thanks rick |
When I checked my 575SCi's with 430 hours two years ago,
under the same conditions (not run, cold engines that hadn't been run in a while) my guideline was to use as gospel the recommendation right out of the Merc manual of 30% leakdown being the decision point (and they do specify on a cold engine). The worst cyllnder port was 33%, the worst starboard was 27%. I decided to pull and refresh the heads from the port one only that year. The next year (last winter) I did the second engine. Everything was in pretty decent shape. As usual the head gaskets used on the 575SCi suck and that showed, and might have been a factor in the leakdown. Those are Fel-Pro now. The engine shop, Larry's Engine and Marine in Tucson, replaced all of the exhaust valves. I'm not a pro engine builder so take my opinions and experiences with a grain of salt (I hear a lot of guys say stuff like if it is over 5% and you have over 50 hours pull the engines now and to a total rebuild, or something similarly alarming). Pesky Varmint |
I would do the test warm. If still at the 14-16% range, I'd pull it.
Darrell. |
You need to find out where the air is leaking out. Listen and you should be able to hear it. I would also do the test after the engines have been run.
Out carb is intake valves Out exhaust is exhaust valves Out valve cover breathers is cylinders |
Originally Posted by Griff
(Post 2800748)
You need to find out where the air is leaking out. Listen and you should be able to hear it. I would also do the test after the engines have been run.
Out carb is intake valves Out exhaust is exhaust valves Out valve cover breathers is cylinders 8 16% crank case 4 5% crank case 3 15% ex valve & crank case 6 8% crank case 5 10% crank case 7 12% crank case 2 14% ex valve & crank case |
What if i run them to temp by pulling out the impeller and run dry so i dont have to re winterize, also the exhaust manifolds are off the motor i just leaked????
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Originally Posted by rssteiny
(Post 2800820)
What if i run them to temp by pulling out the impeller and run dry so i dont have to re winterize, also the exhaust manifolds are off the motor i just leaked????
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Originally Posted by rssteiny
(Post 2801104)
How long should i run them to temp or just get them warm and redo the test.
Cold numbers like you have don't mean much unless they are ridiculously high -- then you know you have an issue. But, at your numbers you gotta get things going again to be sure. If it were me, I'd run another season. |
Yea i think im going to fire up the other motor to temp and see what its readings are and if good ill go back to the one i just did and warm it and re check. i would rather pull the engines in like october and refresh the whole things and power up, so if i can run this summer yet i only put 40 hours on a summer it would be best.
thanks i appreciate all your advise |
I think on a production engine with those hours, cold, not bad..would bet the majority of leakage in the valves...
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