Questions Questions Questions
 

ok i have a few things i need filled in on:

1.) i have recently purchaced a 500hp intake and carb. since i dont have a dyno does anyone know if a carb spacer plate would help or hurt? i have one on my stock intake and i could use it if i wanted. it is 1 inch.

2.) has anyone ever cut risers before. i was tolt that there is a dam welded in the bottom of factory wet style risers. or if anyone could send me a pic of their riser tip (gil) that would be great.

3.) i have the stock thunderbolt 4 VI igniton 502 mag. would i be pissing in the wind to purchace a msd blaster coil for that setup. i dont plan on getting a full upgrade. just wondering if anyone else has done that.

4.) 500hp bravo 1 24 foot outlaw 1.36 ratio drive (which is weird) what prop would you guess (and i mean guess.. i know this is hard to do) would be the best all around. can have like 6 people in it at times and alot of coolers. but i want speed too.

I'm sure im gonna have more questions but ill post them when the old wheels start turning again.

1. If its just a standard aluminum 1" spacer then I wouldn't run it.
2. There is no dam in Gil risers unless someone added it.
3. Just run a merc coil. I used an MSD blaster and it lasted 2 years. I put on a spare 13 year old Merc and it worked fine.
4. I would start with a 24" Bravo 4 blade prop.

does anyone think a 1.36 ratio drive is wrong for my boat?

A 1.50 would probably be better, but a 1.36 will still work fine. I have 1.36's on my AT with 24" props. I could probably spin labbed 28's with 1.50's. Some people say 1.36 gears are stronger, but 1.50's will give better acceleration.

should i just cut the riser straight (inner wall as long as outer wall) or have the inner wall like an inch longer? why do some of them look like that

Why are you cutting the risers??????????????

You really want the inner shorter than the outer where they connect to the exhaust tips. The outer diameter is also larger than standard 4" exhaust tips.

i got the risers last year for 200.00 and they were dry pipes. i was going to just try and put them on ebay and someone told me i could just cut them and make them wet. so i did. i cut them real long and kinda crude. so i made a perfect cut with a bandsaw and i have not made the second cut yet due to the fact i dont know how to set them up. but the standard hose slid on them with a little help. it all worked fine last year. but i could just leave the inner and outer pipe the same length. i dont know whats best. but i only have like 3 inches of distance from the pipe to the transom tips. using like 6 inches of rubber hose to fill the gap.

I would leave your risers alone. I wouldn't have cut them in the first place, let those dry pipes sing baby!

i didnt want to make new holes in the transom for the water to exit. i have allready cut them. i bet i could hve re-sold them for enough to buy a regular set. im dumb.

I would just leave the inner and outer walls the same length then.

also mr. griff... my old head gaskets had provisions for some sort of windage tray or baffle under the intake manifold. i got new marine application gaskets that matched to a T besides the provision to retain that baffle. should i just leave it out? i imagine it is an attempt to keep the bottom of the intake cooler. i had the factory 502 mag. and now i have the dart off of a 500hp. i just dont want to set that thing in there and have it come loose.

nevermind..... it kinda pinches itself in between the heads. im dumb

I put a little silicone on both sides of the tabs on mine. Ensures no annoying rattle starts. Also, my tailpipes inner and outer are cut to the same length, no problem. I run the blaster coils with the Tbolt 4, no improvement noted over merc. On the 1.36, I've heard it said you want prop speed around 5000rpm for max efficiency. 1.36 gets you closer to that than the 1.5s will. I never tested that theory myself, just fwiw to you.

BT :cool:

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thought id share my work so far. i upgraded my membership so im gonna shoot pictures everywhere

Fixxer,
Years ago, I had a set of Gil headers that had the riser pipes that were way tall because they came off a tripple engine setup and it was the middle motor.
Anyway, I fired the motor up on the test stand and it filled the crank case with water. You could see the water creeping up the ID of the pipe while it was idling..
The inner pipe was swedged to mate up with the outer pipe's ID and it ened at the same length. There were three holes (3/8") evenly spaced around the pipe. They were positioned right at the swedge part where it got bigger to mate up with the outer pipe.
I ened up shortening the risers so they didnt sit 14" or so high. I then extended the inner pipe about an inch or so past the outter pipe. I used steel rod to make a circle around the inner pipe and cut three slots in it, about 3/8" wide, @ 12, 4, 8 oclock. I had rubber hose slid over the ends that attached to my tail pipes.. Worked good till I stepped up the CMI's. Which you will do at some point.. :) Speed is a necessity in the boating world.
Hope this helps.. and may you have a decent carbon foot print!!
Dick

also i have noticed on all riser sets that are not gil dry pipes. they have a fitting that is smaller on the bottom side... what is this for? my manifolds have the provisions for the main water supply from the manifolds to the risers. but on the side that is beneath the risers it just has solid thread in plugs i could remove them and drill a hole in the riser and make a fitting like the normal risers but does it really matter? does the smaller fitting on the rear side of the maifold ensure coolant flow through the whole manifold? mabye this is why one of them cracked. it wont take much to do but if i do i need to know what size the hose is that is ran to the bottom side of the riser. also why on earth do i have thwo different temp senders on each side of my t-stat housing? i will take some pictures today and post them. but i had to use an elbow to hook up my water pump bypass to the intake without drilling the manifold. and now of course the sender will not fit against the elbow. but i have an empty hole in the crossover of the manifold now so can i run one in the housing and one in the manifold. or just one. they are hooked to the same wire. seems to me they may have conflicting resistances.

my 32 thunder w/ 500 hps carb have a 1" spacer

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see my handy work... but this is what im talking about. i can plug this side of the t-stat housing and just use one sender right? and the exhaust? i have my questions above. anyone have any ideas? Mr. Griff?

One sender is for your temp guage and one is for the alarm system. As long as you keep a good eye on your water temp guage, you could go without the alarm sending unit. Although, I think the sender that is still in with the red end is the alarm sending unit. The tan/blue stripe wire is for the alarm, I think.

I think the little hose on the bottom of the riser that connects to manifold is an extra measure to make sure water circulates better. Do your risers have the nipple to connect them??? Is the manifold connection just plugged with a brass plug???

They do make Permatex in BLACK:D:D but then I wouldn't have noticed that used it on the thermostat gasket. You need to run a merc thermostat gasket with no sealant. The merc gasket has crush rivets built in that create a ground for the water temp sender. If you don't have them, the sender won't work.

I ran my 468 with out issue for 5 years, after changing out the 7.4 MPI, and did not have an alarm. Last labor day, however, I threw the fan belt to the Sea Water pump. Cruising down the river, having a good time, I never noticed my temp guage, as in 5 years I never had an issue. Didn't take notice of anything until I decided to push the throttle down and got very little response. Turned around and looked only to find smoke coming out of the hatch. It burnt up all of the rubber connections to the exhaust. I pulled the engine and the second ring on every piston was broke. Should have been keeping a better eye on guages, but with the new engine, I am going to make sure there is an alarm on it too.

my risers have a solid brass plug threaded in the back side of the manifold. they do have the port available to use the lower smaller hose but i do not have the fitting. anyways.... i can make a set im sure. but do you know what size hose was used? i would assume that that smaller hose was moist likely installed to keep water moving through both sides of the manifold and to prevent bubbles. and griff you dont like the orange??? thats chevy awesome orange RTV. i just use it on the boat cuz its high temp i guess. i have tubes upon tubes of the black stuff here at work. but i did use a new t-stat gasket from merc. just a little super orange to help it.

also i will put the temp sender in the intake. so i know it gets a good ground. but the dart intake i got is off of a 500hp. and it had the alarm in the intake crossover. so, i will put the alarm in the t-stat housing. plug the side that wont clear and put the sender in the intake manifold?

Since you the extra holes in the intake, just put the senders in any of them in the Tstat housing or intake and plug the rest.

The small hose on the bottom of the risers to the manifolds only uses a 1/4" or 3/8" hose. You should be able to get brass barb fittings at any hardware store.

i dont think ill paint the engine.... it looks like awesome crap all different blue and black. kinda like it