getrdunn

iTrader: (7)

this was not meant for you tutzone.

getrdunn

iTrader: (7)

Just to be on the safe side I would go through the expense doing a complete tear down. Your not looking at that much money. At the very least get a price of new rings and bearings and assembly and let us know how much. It would just suck to have to limp along or perhaps sit on the dock due to a problem that could potentially be solved know. All boils down to how much money you have set aside and the risk your willing to take.
How many hours are on the engine? I don't recall. Anything over 400 I would do it.

tutzone

I am looking for educated opinions not smart ass responses.Thanks for the replies.

tutzone

The engine has 250 hours on it.

getrdunn

iTrader: (7)

You'll most certainly hear other opinions however put it back together and run it. Do a compression test if you have any concerns before you accessorize it. You'll be fine... As always to be a 100 % certain you know what you should do however you can always follow the old rule of thumb. If ain't broke don't fix it. Sometimes you can go through all the proper procedures and sit dead in the water also....

Run it. Be sure and post though with your progress.

getrdunn

iTrader: (7)

Sorry about the other business. I should have stayed focussed on your concerns. My bad

stevesxm

tutzone,
i admit to being a bit confused at this point. you have this motor and it is partially apart. somebody thinks they see what might be a problem. you don't. no issue there. that happens all the time. what confuses me is that since, in this particular situation, it is an absolute piece of cake to make a small cover to leak that cylinder down at various positions in the rotation... and then do the ones on either side. if the suspect one is the same as the ones on either side , that tells you a lot. if it is decidedly different, then that tells you a lot as well.

i just don't understand why you are so resistant to an simple and objective test that will give you some hard and factual information. while the opinions expressed within this thread may or may not be based on some relevant experience by the writers, the bottom line is that this isn't some bermuda triangle bizzare problem that no one understands. the solution requires a simple judgement based on objective data derived ON SITE... there... with you. not some half baked notions about just winging it back together and hoping for the best. that idea is both stupid and wrong in all respects no matter how much claimed success that writer has had in the past... GEEZE do you really want to take the advice of someone that says he roasts his motors all the time and they still run just fine ?

do the test. it is easy and takes no time at all. look at those numbers and make an informed choice. this notion of diagnosis by distant commitee , none of which have actually seen your hardware , is just asking to be wrong and have your ass handed to you later on.

you are clearly concientious and want to do the right thing.

FIXX

iTrader: (2)

tutzone,,as everybody reccomends,have the valve job done and run it...If it were my motor i would at leaste install head studs instead of bolts..the stude seem to torque down better then bolts and are stronger so you have less of a chance scorching the block between the cylinders..

blue thunder

Engine was running fine, no need for a full rebuild. Do the top end. Buy new springs to match the cam, surface the heads if needed, grind valves and seats with generous margins and reassemble using high quality mls heads gaskets like cometic. New seals and checking guides is also in order. If the keepers show signs of valve float change them too. Arp head bolts would be wise as well with sealer on any holes going in to coolant passages..

This bottom end should be good to minimally 500hours with hard running as long as no water/cooling issues or detonation has occured. It is customary to do the above on hp500s at 200-250.