valve spring swap question plasic seal thingy

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06-02-2009 | 08:17 PM
  #11  
the springs look like there is 3 total per spring, th center one is the one causing the space issues
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06-02-2009 | 09:00 PM
  #12  
To do the job correctly, you need to pull the heads. You will need to have the valve guide machined for a positive type seal, and loose the spring rotator(copper colored). Repace it with spring locators, check and shim for installed height.
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06-02-2009 | 09:12 PM
  #13  
Quote: To do the job correctly, you need to pull the heads. You will need to have the valve guide machined for a positive type seal, and loose the spring rotator(copper colored). Repace it with spring locators, check and shim for installed height.
I'll second that!! Usually this is best left to a reputable performance engine shop!You must run the PC seals with those springs.
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06-02-2009 | 09:29 PM
  #14  
Dude, take the heads to a good machine shop. That is one of the things I do NOT do. And I do all my own wrench work. The heads have to be machined down to accept special seals. Valve spring height adjustment must be set. Have you every tried to compress double roller springs? Have a 3 angle valve job done. I have wached what they do and you do not have the tools to do it. Just my 2 cents.
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06-02-2009 | 09:48 PM
  #15  
i think i figured out that the comp 926 sprigs are a direct swa with no machine work done. i taked to the guy from comp cams for 45 minutes about this swap and mentioned nothing about machine work and the guy tried to sell me a bunch of stuff. i am caing back in the morning, after looking at the pictures on the 926 they dont have that center spring so if its as simple as buying a different spring then no issues. by the way the heads are off of the engine aready.
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06-03-2009 | 06:28 AM
  #16  
Quote: big jim, i was gonna do a valve job but the motor ony had 50 hours and looks like new inside and since i am on a budget and pan to run the motor for only a season or 2 i am gonna skip the machine work this round. where in nebraska are you?
I am in Papillion, and boat on the longest river in the United States

It dosen't cost much to take the heads to a machine shop. It's one thing you do not want to mess up. If you don't get it correct, it might be the end of you boating season for the year. I used to do all my own head work, I sold all my tools for it and simply take it to Rojam Machine and let them do it for me.
Like everyone posted, its a little more complicated than you think.
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06-03-2009 | 07:11 AM
  #17  
The pin has been pulled...
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06-03-2009 | 08:09 AM
  #18  
I can hear it now. In two weeks he will be posting. Engine blew up. I don't know what happened? I heard this funny noise then ping. Then this thing came out of the block. Is that bad. Sorry, but if you ask for advice and you do not listen to anyone but the tech line at comp well you get what your deserve. Oh, by the way those are dual springs with dampener. The Comps will have the same setup. Isky's are better.
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06-03-2009 | 07:36 PM
  #19  
RM,
Basically, you are going to have to take the heads to a machine shop and have them machine the guides for a positive type valve seal that will fit inside of your dual spring. Also, depending on the lift of your new cam, the guides will probably need to be shortened so the retainer will not hit the top of the guide or the seal at full lift. The "copper" part (valve rotator) will need to be either discarded, or replaced with a solid rotator eliminator, also depends on the spring. You also need to make sure that the new springs are installed at the correct height. And finally, you did not show a picture, but the valve spring retainer will more than likely also need to be replaced with one that fits your new springs properly.

Hope this helps,

Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md
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06-03-2009 | 07:37 PM
  #20  
Sorry guys, did not even realize that there was a page 2 before posting Anyway, maybe repeating the warnings will get him to do the job correctly.
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