internal balance?
 

how do i tell if rotating assembly is internal or external balanced?

Motor is 509 build by mesa balancing, lunati crank.

You can tell that crank has been worked on so I assume internal, but I need to know for sure.
Thanks.

two ways I know of, are to look at the balancer and see if it has a slug on the edge of it... if so than it is external. Same with the flywheel, flip it over and if it has a small slug on the edge, it is external balanced.

Are you running the engine currently or are you in the process of rigging. If you do find that the assm. has been balanced then you should have all your external rotating parts neutrally balanced. Let us know the history and particulars of your project. Look closely at the counter weight area of the crankshaft and also at the end of the rod caps.

I would contact Mesa to be certain. Most hi performance engines that are built by a reputable shop will always balance internally.

www.mesabalancing.com

I bought the motor complete, it had been sitting in his shop for two years and belonged to a friend of his. He could not remember the parts that where in it, but did have the dyno info. I put the motor in my boat and after about 1.5 hours it died and would not restart. Took it home and found the distributor gear, that was supplied with the motor was chewed to pieces. I should have pulled the motor, but it is so hard for me to find a way to lift it that high, I didnt. I flushed the motor with ten or fifteen gallons of kerosene, changed the oil about 5 times,and ran it. Thia was a bad idea. I spun the center three main bearings, They are not bad, but the crank will need polishing at min. The rod bearings look great. The reason I need to know the balance is i have a much nicer flywheel and balancer I would like to put on, but need to know if it will be ok.

The motor is out of the boat, and the crank is out. I am a fairly cometent mechanic, but need some help on the performance stuff.

Any suggestions on how to DIY flush all the bearing material out of the motor would be helpful. I would rather not pull the heads because I do not want to resetup the valve train. I know the best thing would be take it to a qualified marine mechanic, but there are two problems with that, first is if I had to pay someone to work on it I could not afford to keep it, the other is the area I live in if it is not a outboard on a fishing boat they are not anymore qualified to work on it then I am.
Thanks for any helpful hints

No offense man, but cutting corners is what got you to this point to begin with!! Pull the heads, tear it completely down and powerwash the heck out of every orifice and creavace you can find.

You might also have the crank looked over by a machine shop and maybe even mag'd while your at it.... it is not very expensive.

You need to pull every piece of the engine apart. Metal hides every where after you spin a bearing. I have posted pictures on this site of metal sitting on top of the lifter valley. Take it to a good machine shop and have them clean it, dunk it, and clean it again or you will be right back where you started.
Also do not forget to buy a new oil cooler and lines as they can not be cleaned (don't ask how I know that).
Good luck:drink:

Thr crank is going to the machine shop today. I am not cutting corners because I am lazy, I just cant afford to take the entire setup to the machine shop and let them deal with it, so I have do do the lions share myself. The reason I am reluctant to pull the heads is I do not know much about seting upa hyd. roller valve train. I am fine on a flat tappet, but not that familiar with a roller setup.

I planned on seting up a recurculating pump with a filter and naptha to flush the cooler, is this not reasonable, I donot want to buy a new cooler.

most HYDRAULIC roller cams are adjusted the same as a hydraulic flat tappet cam. fyi the advice that you are being given is from experience. if you do not fix this motor the right way you will be doing it again.......................soon.