i pulled the cooler off and flushed both sides of the water and oil. it flows freely. I also reinstalled it and ran the boat with the drain plug out of the cooler to check flow. it does flow water but it is pretty warm water so I am assuming that it is trying to dissipate the heat. am I looking too far past the cooler simply not being adequate? there are no bypass valves to change the adapter is the correct one, all the lines are ran right and the only other dispute is that the oil runs to the filter before the cooler but thats how it was rigged on my other motor and this system worked fine?:drink:

Lake,
Are is your carb and jettting the exact same as before he rebuild?

yes the jetting is the same. it is not a rebuild this is a totally new motor. I started witht the same jets and was going to work from there. the plugs are nice and brown with no hint of detonation. if it was detonating to the point of heating the oil wouldnt you guys think there would be some splatter on the plugs? or at least the plugs look white? the oil temp will heat up to 140 while letting the boat idle for a bit through the no wake zone. as soon as I get the boat up on plane the oil temp gradually inreases and will continue to inrease until I slow down. when I slow down and go through an idle zone the oil temp doesnt really come down like it should. the temp will decrease but not like it did with my old motor. the only way to get the oil to cool down totally is to shut the motor off and let it sit for awhile. the is the exact same oil system that I had on my other motor and it worked great. If the bearing clearances were too tight wouldnt the oil cool down at idle? I can let the oil ccol with the motor off and after starting it again it will idle all day at 140-150 degrees of oil temp but as soon as you get up on plane it heats back up?

I am going to a lighter weight oil and try reducing the oil level by a quart to see what happens. I know no one on here like fram filters but I am also going to try the hp4 filter instead of the mercury filter. At this point I guess its a process of elimination:lolhit:

how much water pressure are you running? Are you running a thermostat?

no thermostat and I have about 2-3 psi at idle. should I try a thermostat to increase water psi and slow the flow down through the cooler?

or at least a restrictor?

interesting.I'm having the same trouble with new 632's.Almost identical set up to you.Dart block,canton adapter,18x3 cooler,an12 lines,canton offshore pans,oil senders in the pan,crossovers and no thermostats at present due to water pressure issues.First lap and on it went to 260,slowed to 5000rpm and came down to 230.I too am wondering if the cooler is too small.I'm not sure about a restrictor.Definetly need a thermostat to get the motor temp up.

It depends, how much PSI are you running underway?

well I just tried a 160 degree thermostat and all that did was raise the oil temp.

Your oil is NOT flowing through the cooler.
Could be the oil adaptor, ie the lines to the cooler and return,
Could be a plug not fitted in the oil gallery and allowing the oil to bypass the filter and cooler,
or ???? many other reasons, put an inline pressure gauge on the cooler line.

Your motor is behaving like it has no Cooler.

Steve

Sounds like you are racing.....First lap and on

A 632 is 4.6 x 4.75 stroke,
you are running a wet sump and a 'tiny' cooler, what do you expect?:eek:
The oil cannot return past the massive area of the rotating assembly.
You need a dry sump or external oil drains AND more cooler.

Steve

double post

lol my motor is bigger than his. I think I found part of the problem. the anode on the front of the lower unit is missing. when I put the water to the lower unit it sprays out of the hole that the bolt that holds the anode on goes in and thats why my water psi is very low. I dont know if it was removed at the shop when the drive was off or??? but when its in the water you dont notice it because it is submerged. at speed there is not enough water flowing through the cooler to cool the oil I have not tested this theory but it has to be part of the problem because like I said this is the same system that I had on my 622ci motor and it worked like a champ. that would also explain why there isnt much water coming out of the cooler petcock when I OPEN IT when the engine is running. I know that the oil is flowing through the cooler because every time I have had it off it has oil in it and the cooler feels warm to the touch. I had it off yesterday and drained all the oil out and today when I took the line off the return side of the cooler it had oil in it.

Just re-read this thread. Post #45 asked what your WP was, you responded..." 2-3 lbs at idle". This isn't very important, but what is important is your water pressure and flow at speed. This needs to be 10+ lbs with a lot of flow. Based on your comments about "warm water at the cooler", I think your water circulation needs a hard look.

this is the one Bob Teague recomended to me http://teaguecustommarine.com//store...roducts_id=972

price has jumped up since I got mine

the gauge shows 2-3 pounds at idle but that is on the hose. I think that the hole in the lower where the anode bolts is leaking psi at speed. I actually reved the motor with the drain plug out of the cooler and it doesn't increase very much like it should. I will put a new anode on tomorrow and update. I dont see how there could be any water psi with it all leaking out of the hole. I tried running the boat with the nose cone in a large bucket and it wouldnt pick up water because the hole where the anode bolts wasnt submerged but when on the hose it obviosly has at least 15 pounds of psi. I hope I have finally found something but if not I will keep on looking. I really appreciate all the helpful advice.

Sounds like you may have solved it. At speed you should be running at least 10psi of water pressure.

That's why I asked how much PSI you have underway. As stated previously, you should have 10+ psi.

I just noticed that the cooler is chromed. According to informed sources, chroming will cut the cooling ability of the cooler in half. I'd ditch that cooler and get one that has a 3 x 18 cooling element. It will have about a 24" overall length. That's a big engine and it needs a big cooler that's not chromed.

I have read that also but it did cool my other motor so? If the water leak doesnt fix it I will put a new\bigger nin chromed cooler on it next.

i checked out that possibility, the cooler does radiate heat, and it's possible that chrome may affect radiated heat by that percentage, however the water to oil interface through the brass or coppernickel tubes is the primary cooling method and radiated heat is a fairly small percentage of it.

well the oil still gets too hot about 190 on the trailer at idle so I guess the next logical step is to replace the oil cooler?

before you go there, pick up a cheap infrared gun at harbor freight or other and make sure the hot oil is going where it should and that it is the temp you are seeing.

don't see how you could get 190 oil on the trailer

me neither.... even if the bearings were messed up...

Are you sure you have the correct sender that is matched with the gauge?

no I am not. the shop that put the motor in broke the sender that was in the pan so they replaced it. the line out of the cooler to the oil pan isn't that hot. I can hold it in my hand and its a braided line. the line from the pan to the oil filter is too hold to hold so I know that the cooler is doing something. the cooler is also pretty hot to the touch but I am thinking it should be if its working? I am going to order a new sender and try that then I guess if that doesn't work I will try a new cooler. Like I said guys I have been around and owned race cars for 20 years and even owned a race fab shop but this thing is wearing me out lol!!!! My thinking is that if the bearing tolerances were too tight it would at least cool off after letting it idle? would running a thermostat or restrictor in the water neck increase water psi? I have a crossover with a bypass and no restrictor or t stat. the water temp never gets over 150 idling on the trailer.

I am running a crossover, i have a 160 t-stat with 3x 3/16 drilled around the edges. Highly advise running a sea strainer if you are using a t-stat and a crossover

18 inches is'nt too small for an oil cooler... I'd go with something wrong in the cooler...

The cooler is 18" total. the oil cooler side is 12"s and I am not using the ps cooler.

I also use a 160 deg thermostat but I have (2) 1/8" holes drilled in it. Should do about the same thing.

check the gage before you do anything else i shouldnt heat up that fast.

I looked on gaffrigs web site and the only differences in the oil temp senders is the size? I am hoping maybe the sender is wrong. also wouldnt it be more of a concern as to what the temp of the oil is that is going into the motor as opposed to whats in the pan? in other words why wouldnt you check temp after the cooler? why check the oil in the pan?

If you're running a crossover with a bypass and no t-stat you should remove and cap the bypass hose. You only need the bypass hose if you're running a t-stat. With no t-stat running the bypass hose you're limiting the amount of water that passes thru the block. The bypass is only needed with a t-stat as it bleeds of water to your exhaust when the t-stat is closed.

With no t-stat installed and with proper water pressure from the hose you shouldn't really see much engine temp running on a hose, maybe 100-110 degrees or so. It sounds like you're starving for some water maybe or the bypass is allowing the block to heat up.

I'm measuring oil temp coming out of the cooler but they say the best place to measure is in the pan. The pan readings should be a little higher than what's coming out of the cooler. Best thing to do is get an infared gun and shoot the pan, oil cooler and filter to verify temps.

As for having the proper sender, yes there are different sizes and you just need to order the proper size for the fitting you have. The reason I asked about the sender being the right one is the senders have specific ohm ranges and the sender should be matched to the gauge so you get proper readings on the gauge. If someone mistakenly installed a water temp sender the readings on the gauge will be tweaked. Just call up gaffrig and let them know which gauge you have and they can help you get the right one.

So should I put a t stat in the water neck or just cap both sides of the bypass? the water temp has never been an issue but I have noticed that there is a lot of water out the exhaust. I am thinking that the bypass is allowing the water to go straight to the headers and out the exhaust instead of flowing all the water to the motor. if I use a tstat should I drill a few holes in it and if so what size? thanks again for all the advice.

It depends.... I say that because in my opinion it really does....

You're boating in GA where the water can be quite warm (85 deg. + water???) and you're also running big cubic inches which probably makes a decent amount of power (800+??).... So, if you're running without a t-stat and there's no whip cream on the vavle covers from running too cold, I'd just cap the bypass and run without the t-stat. Also, if you're not making enough water pressure than run a restrictor...

If for some reason you're bent on having a t-stat then go ahead! If you don't have any high water pressure issues I wouldn't bother drilling the holes. Also, I would run a 142 degree t-stat, not a 160 for your setup if a t-stat is what you choose.

One thing for me is I like to keep things simple... If it runs good without the t-stat and temps and all are good then run it! If it ain't broke don't fix it!

well I will try capping the bypass and see what happens. are you saying to cap the bypass and run a restrictor to get more water psi? I think I need more water psi and I now know why its low. its all going out the exhaust and not through the motor with the bypass hooked up.

this is how my setup is, water temp always stays inthe 160-165 range. I think the bypass helps moderate water pressure spikes.

When you plug the bypass hose you may see an increase in water pressure so I'd cap it first and then see what you have. If you are not seeing enough water pressure at cruise speed (10 psi or more) then I would start looking at restrictors. At idle you're not going to see more than 2-3 psi with or without a restrictor, it really matters what you see while running.

Wobble, you're running a t-stat so you need the bypass hose, lakespeed doesn't have one.

Lastly, for accurate results test it in the water, not on the hose... The hose will not provide enough water volume when you rev up the engine and I also take a long time to cool down.

180-210*F is your target temp running hard.....you need that heat to burn off any moisture or gas off that's crept into the oil....160-165 "always" seems a bit too cool to me.

:bigbird:

You do not need nor you want 210 water temp. You do want minimum 210 oil temp however to burn off moisture in the oil. I run 130-140 water temp and about 240 oil temp running hard.