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Originally Posted by MOP
(Post 2923245)
Anyone not running one pull your oil fill cap and tell me your valve covers are not showing moisture build up, another thing I have seen is the valve springs rust. Once rust starts on a valve spring it will break in short order.
I'll retract my previous replies if I see moisture. Please disregard until I check. |
You said that you pulled the block drains out and nothing came out????
You are probably building temp because you have some sand clogged in the engine block somewhere. Be careful, becuase if wterflow is restricted, it will cause the back part of the engine to overheat and you will stick some valves and kiss a piston. Then you'll have a bigger problem than you have now. |
As long as were on the subject I have a question as well. I recall reading some threads a while back regarding the issues of thermostats with cross over kits. I realize there are pros and cons running the cross over kits without the engine circulating pump. Question is what do you do about the t-stat. I have heard some say just punch out the inner and others say drill 2 or 3 - 1/8" holes in the t-stat. I have actually read to take it out all together. Any latest good info on this.
Thanks, John |
Originally Posted by MOP
(Post 2923245)
Running without Tstats is not good, no matter what any one tells you. Temperature is needed to bring the engine tolerances up to spec, also without Tstats you will not burn off the moisture. On the Donzi site there are a few posts with pictures of the Goo that builds up and pictures of glazed cylinder walls from cold stuck rings. A 160 is the minimum stat for a boat engine, I am F/W cooled and run a 180. Anyone not running one pull your oil fill cap and tell me your valve covers are not showing moisture build up, another thing I have seen is the valve springs rust. Once rust starts on a valve spring it will break in short order. Even the guys on the Donzi site with blower motors are running Tstats!
No tstat in the mill before for 3 years and at tear down no rust. |
Originally Posted by getrdunn
(Post 2923382)
As long as were on the subject I have a question as well. I recall reading some threads a while back regarding the issues of thermostats with cross over kits. I realize there are pros and cons running the cross over kits without the engine circulating pump. Question is what do you do about the t-stat. I have heard some say just punch out the inner and others say drill 2 or 3 - 1/8" holes in the t-stat. I have actually read to take it out all together. Any latest good info on this.
Thanks, John My prefered method is to not run a T stat at all, and to add an oil T stat to control the oil temp. |
Originally Posted by jeff1000man
(Post 2923390)
You need a by pass line going from the crossover to the other side of the T stat to allow for water flow to the exhaust to keep it from overheating.
My prefered method is to not run a T stat at all, and to add an oil T stat to control the oil temp. that is exactly what i have planned to do however wanted a little insight on the subject before plumbing. thanks again, john |
does anyone have a good picture from the front showing the proper hose plumbing regarding the post above. i have gils.
i'll be plumbing soon. thanks, john |
Originally Posted by BY U BOY
(Post 2923384)
I have no signs of moisture in my mill. 2 years with no tstat.
No tstat in the mill before for 3 years and at tear down no rust. |
Originally Posted by jeff1000man
(Post 2923320)
You said that you pulled the block drains out and nothing came out????
You are probably building temp because you have some sand clogged in the engine block somewhere. Be careful, becuase if wterflow is restricted, it will cause the back part of the engine to overheat and you will stick some valves and kiss a piston. Then you'll have a bigger problem than you have now. |
Biggus I used all your tools then did not want to bring them back so I tossed them all into the water. Get a scuba tank and swim around Jimmies docks you may find some.
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