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outriggers 08-23-2009 07:52 AM

Eddie, How about a few of the specs under the nice blue paint job? :) Doug

wtfo 08-23-2009 12:22 PM


Originally Posted by Young Performance (Post 2937559)
I pulled the invoice for the last paint I just bought. This was about 2 weeks ago. A qt of Nason base (custom color) was $40.80, a qt of Nason clear was $25.00. A pint of activator for the clear was $11.40 and the Nason acid etch primer(rattle can) was $7.75 per can. You will need 1-1 1/2 cans per engine. I have been using this paint for about 2 1/2 years now and love it. I still use House of Kolor for some of the off the wall colors.
Here are a few shots of an engine that I just painted with the Nason paint.
Eddie

great looking work! do yo ever have any problems with separation between base and clear coat? Someone told me they had that happen once in a while and recommended just using the fulthane single stage. I've been using single stage instead of base clear for a couple of years with great results so far proba lby don't do near as much as you do. also, does the rattle can version of the primer hold up as well as the 2k 491-17 and 483-83 activator? I've had great luck with ful-thane / single stage over this on engine parts and even drives. rattle can primer would be somewhat more convenient especially for doing odds and ends as you put something together...

jeff1000man 08-23-2009 12:27 PM


Originally Posted by Young Performance (Post 2937559)
I pulled the invoice for the last paint I just bought. This was about 2 weeks ago. A qt of Nason base (custom color) was $40.80, a qt of Nason clear was $25.00. A pint of activator for the clear was $11.40 and the Nason acid etch primer(rattle can) was $7.75 per can. You will need 1-1 1/2 cans per engine. I have been using this paint for about 2 1/2 years now and love it. I still use House of Kolor for some of the off the wall colors.
Here are a few shots of an engine that I just painted with the Nason paint.
Eddie

Which rockers are those?

Mr Gadgets 08-23-2009 08:13 PM

I am guessing T&D's? Am I correct Eddie?

I am getting ready to squirt my engine.. Dupont A-4115s, rattle can, self etching was recommended. I usually put Centari over it with a hardner..
Holds up to the gas and oil and scratches..

Young Performance 08-23-2009 09:53 PM

3 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by outriggers (Post 2937597)
Eddie, How about a few of the specs under the nice blue paint job? :) Doug

It is a 540 with AFR heads (335 cnc). Comp. ratio is only 9.4:1. It made 701 hp at 5800 rpm and 650 ft lbs at 5200 and has the flatest torque curve of any NA engine I have ever seen. This is the first time that I used the AFR heads and I am very pleased. I have done this same combo in the past with a little less camshaft, but more compression, and could only make 679 hp. The peak torque was high but it was only 30 ft lbs less at 4000 rpm. I think with a little tweaking to the combo, it will make 725-730 hp.



Originally Posted by wtfo (Post 2937727)
great looking work! do yo ever have any problems with separation between base and clear coat? Someone told me they had that happen once in a while and recommended just using the fulthane single stage. I've been using single stage instead of base clear for a couple of years with great results so far proba lby don't do near as much as you do. also, does the rattle can version of the primer hold up as well as the 2k 491-17 and 483-83 activator? I've had great luck with ful-thane / single stage over this on engine parts and even drives. rattle can primer would be somewhat more convenient especially for doing odds and ends as you put something together...

I have never had a seperation issues. I've used a single stage a few times and it just doesn't have the gloss. I just got used to shooting base/clear because I use so much HOK. The rattle can primer is sooooo convenient. It's just one less time I have to clean the gun and one less thing to mix. It is a big time saver and time is money.


Originally Posted by jeff1000man (Post 2937730)
Which rockers are those?

Mr. Gadgets is right....they are T and D's.


Here are a few shots of the primer, paint and clear that I used on this engine.

There is also a pic of the dyno sheet.

Thanks, Eddie

wtfo 08-23-2009 11:04 PM


Originally Posted by Young Performance (Post 2937991)
I have never had a seperation issues. I've used a single stage a few times and it just doesn't have the gloss. I just got used to shooting base/clear because I use so much HOK. The rattle can primer is sooooo convenient. It's just one less time I have to clean the gun and one less thing to mix. It is a big time saver and time is money.
Thanks, Eddie

Thanks for the tip on the primer! I'll pick some up. When i get to the point where I'm doing the kind of art work you are on an engine, I'll see how I can do with the b/c but for the time being, and especially with the way I tend to need to touch things up on occassion, I'll stick with the single stage for engine work for now and limit my b/c jobs to cars and bikes. I was really surprised how well the nason stuff holds up on engine parts as well as the truck and a boat hull I painted with it. it's also an easy paint for a hack like me to lay down with good result...

Young Performance 08-24-2009 11:18 PM

I am no painter by any stretch of the imagination. I can put it on an engine and make it stay there. I have painted a few cars and boats, but just playing around. Nothing serious. I know how to shoot paint, but I am no expert......or even good, for that matter. I really like the way this paint flows out. It makes it look like I know what I'm doing.:evilb:
Hope this has helped, Eddie.

jeff1000man 08-25-2009 12:25 AM

3 Attachment(s)
House of color. Working well.


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