What flywheel are you using??
 

I use a billet steel flywheel, Mcleod and wondering if a flywheel is a flywheel?
I called Mcleod and Ram and they couldnt answer my questions very well. The main question was why should I spend $100+ on one wheel or another?? They didnt have a good answer.
They both said they were made in USA..

Anyone have any thoughts on what is better than another??

Thanks
Dick

at the rpms we turn these boats and no shock on the drive line a std flywheel is fine....Rob

Im not an expert just my opinion
it really seem the flywheel on a boat does not do much like it does in a car where you need a smooth surface etc. for clutch bite

on the boat it really just needs the weight on the back of the motor to keep the motor from stalling when throwing it in drive

I use the stock GM flywheels (not the cast ones though)

I just built a brand new motor and Im using a used GM flywheel that I found for cheap which was the correct one that I needed
so I wouldnt waste my money on a Mccloud or Ram for a boat motor to be honest

on a car motor different story though

I would consider the HP you're going to make. The Hays billet is only 240.00 @ Summit, cheap insurance.

If you are running a 565 ci Merlin, I would call Tyler Crockett and get one of his ultra light weight aluminum fly wheels. It will help your motor accelerate and improve performance overall.

GPM,
Hays was another on my list.. Hays 10-235 is what there site says fits the 454.

I run the 10-130 internal balance.

I am using ultra light flywheels but my idle in gear is a challenge. This weekend, we are going to winterize and then pull one engine because of a small oil leak we can't get to. Oil in the bilge keeps me up at night. :drink: We will put on a stock GM flywheel on this engine.
In the spring, I will report back on whether there is any improvement with this engine at idle. My guess is there will be an improvement with the idle in gear....we'll see. What is your guess? I doubt we will be able to detect/measure any change in acceleration as the engine performance generally equals out on the tach.

I have a billet steel internal balance flywheel for a 502, same as for a 454 i believe, needs a new $23 ring gear and a good cleaning I will sell cheap. It is a nice flywheel just dirty. Yours for $100 plus the ride.

TX,
Is this a Mercury take off? I need a neutral balance without a counterweight; also one where the ring gear fits on either side. If it will work, I will confirm on Monday as I might have one in my shop.
Ben

D!ck I remember another thread on this,they were saying run the heavy stock one,ill have to do a search,cant remember.

all the gm flywheels ive seen are cast with casting #'s then machined for the clutch surface.ex or internal
ball,.I would think with a light weight one,it would rev quicker :less drag,but with a bravo style drive just makes it easyier to break something and once your up to top speed trying to run a # the rotating mass is already up to speed and probally doesent have that much drag??
like Tyler says it helps accelerate coming out of the turns.

kind like running a automatic flywheel on a race car

Guessing around here
Rob:ernaehrung004:

Gary,
you are correct. The 10-130 is the one I need.
I was looking at what I thought was the correct McLeod. But the guy mislead me.
Did you have to do any clearancing of the back of yours to fit your crank? Or did it mount right up?

Dick,
If you decide on aluminum, I have one 13-14 (?) lbs Keith Eickert flywheel in my shop. Excellent condition. I could UPS on Sunday if you want. $210 delivered. Another option is a trade for your steel one? If the steel one doesn't help my idle, we can trade back in 2010 :grinser010:
Ben

Bolted right up, used ARP bolts. Didn't want to go to light and didn't trust the stock one when I turn it up.

Ben,
I like the idea of a heavy one.. 30# is what I have been running with no issues at idle in and out of gear. I think I like the idea of that Hays 10-130. That should put me back to where I have been.
I just didnt know if you get what you pay for in this instance. When you see $100 difference it makes me wonder why. But if Gary is good with the Hays, I can be also.
Tx the 502 is Gen V and a different balance than the Gen IV 454, but has the same bolt pattern, so careful with mix and match.

Gary,
I was going to fire it this past weekend, but ended up with problems (self induced) with the electronics. Getting that worked out this week. If I can find some transistors tomorrow, then maybe by the end of the week?? Headed out of town on Sat and Sunday.. So more delays!! Getting close!
Thanks for all of the ideas guys!!
Appreciate it!

Dick

Gary,
I was going to fire it this past weekend, but ended up with problems (self induced) with the electronics. Getting that worked out this week. If I can find some transistors tomorrow, then maybe by the end of the week?? Headed out of town on Sat and Sunday.. So more delays!! Getting close!
Thanks for all of the ideas guys!!
Appreciate it!

Dick[/QUOTE]

It doesn't look like you'll be seeing the water this year, that sucks. If you need any spare parts let me know.
PS. my drive is still running strong, 30 hrs, 1400 plus hp. THANKS !!

Dick,
What is difference in your current flywheel and a Hays 10-30?

I am sorry this flywheel is neutral balance off a merlin block so it is mk4 or 2 piece crank seal. actually it was a 509

I use a cast iron unit from Pioneer on engines under 700 hp. It is more than acceptable and very economical at under $150. On engines between 700-1000 hp, I use the 40 lb unit and on engines over 1000 hp, I use the 50 lb flywheel. I have found that the larger engines, which typically go in larger, heavier boats, really benefit from the increased inertia of the heavier flywheel. I would not run the cast iron flywheel on anything over 700 hp. I've seen one explode on a 1200 hp engine. Chit flew everywhere. Made one hell of a mess.
The only steel flywheel I have used is the Hays. I can't speak about any of the others, but the Hays have been flawless and well worth the money.

This is from Hay's website:

Q: Should I use an aluminum or steel flywheel?
A: Aluminum flywheels with their lighter weight, are typically used in oval track and road race applications and are also popular in high-horsepower, light weight drag cars. These vehicles rely on engine horsepower to drive the wheels. Steel flywheels are used in applications that require additional engine torque for performance. A heavier flywheel can help acceleration from a standing start and keep the engine's RPM and power up. These are characteristics needed most in high-torque applications such as tractor pulling.

Boats definitely qualify as high torque applications.
Hope this helps.
Eddie

Eddie,
Thanks for the input to this thread. Your approach is very logical. I will order the Hays 10-130 billet flywheel. We will likely end up with 30 lbs steel flywheels on both engines. We no longer race out of the corners.
Ben

Gary,
You are welcome for the drive!! Always glad to help out.
I talked to Hays today and found Bill a very knowledgeable guy. Unlike the others I had talked to at Ram and Mcleod.
He explained the steel is A36 and comes from USA!! The flywheel is also USA! He described several options and the 10-130 is the cheapest of all of them and as good of quality as the rest if not better.
Ben,
The flywheel I have now is a Mcleod and one tooth is broken. I posted this question to find out if there was any difference between the a cheaper ones (Hays or Ram) and the more expensive Mcleod. Seems the quantity of wheels Hays does helps with costs. I stopped by the local speed shop and they had 8 of them in stock and would match Summit's price, so I brought one home with me!
As far as physical differences, I dont really see any.
Bill explained to me they are built not to blow up.. the ring gear is also made not to explode. They test batches of the steel they use for several properties and then every year they send in wheels to be spin tested attempting to blow them up, to see if that the quality is maintained. The spin testing is done with the ring gear on it.
All in all I liked the knowledge the Hays engineer had. I know own one and hope to give it a good home behind my medium sized, 572 - M4, motor.
All the billet wheels I considered were SFI certified. I believe they are of all the same quality as far as safety is concerned.

Thanks again for everyone's input.

Dick

This is all you need to run if you have a gen v or vi 115.00 plus shipping plus some good arp bolts and loc-tite

http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance...96987/10002/-1

I'm impressed....some well known use 27# and never thought about why....springs and floating hub create heat....Alloy ending numbers of 30 or 40, billet, sound good to me....What about detonation for the throttle jockey using heavy flywheels.

After a little more research, the Hays 10-130 billet steel flywheel is set up for a front mount starter. Hays said the ring gear is not reversible. This leaves the Hays "Marine flywheel" 10-320...with the usual marine pricing :eek:

I cut the Hay's flywheels myself for the top mount starters. I have never bought the marine flywheel. Been cutting them for years and never had a problem with them. Any machine shop the has a lathe with a 14" swing can do it. Good luck.
Eddie

Thanks Eddie, I will pursue this option. Do you just cut the surface flat or do you leave a small ridge similar to the GM/Merc flywheel?
Ben

I leave a small shoulder. I cut the backside the same width as the factory one. It ends up leaving a small shoulder in the center of the flywheel. Off the top of my head, the shoulder is about .150".
Eddie