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Quote:

Originally Posted by 1BIGJIM (Post 2980693)

Back to the valves.
I just took a valve out of a head and the magnet only stuck on the TIP. Do you need a super strong magnet? I just used a telescopic one used to things you drop in hard to get places.

Yes I did check out the website. The prices seems to good to be true. I am in the market for two.

I did talk with the guy there for 30 mins, i asked him his name and he said they call me the old guy!! He said price is good for now but is only going up, so buy sooner than later, after the 1st im sure it will go up to 6000 if i had to bet

Quote:

Originally Posted by ballon78 (Post 2980718)

Here is the same engine
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/8-2L-...item56365be1db

http://www.cpperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=3511

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rockfish71 (Post 2980740)

Here is the same engine
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/8-2L-...item56365be1db
[[/url]

They all have the same pictures!

Here is shipping desc. 355lbs sounds a little on the light side.

Engine weighs 355lbs fully packaged and crated.
Shipping $180-$350 depending on location of
delivery, to be paid by winning bidder

The valve stem is more than likely 4140 steel. Friction welded or stun welded to the inconel head. Stainless wouldnt work well in a valve guide because its a softer material. The 300 series stainless isnt magnetic. It has very little carbon. The 400 series stainless has some carbon so a magnet will stick and its a little stronger. But its still a softer weaker material than carbon steels. Just a little machine shop info from a friendly machinest. Bobby

Didn't they offer a 540 and 600+ big blocks? I don't see them mentioned on their site. Doug

Quote:

Originally Posted by outriggers (Post 2981022)

Didn't they offer a 540 and 600+ big blocks? I don't see them mentioned on their site. Doug

when i talked to them the other day , he said he lost his engine builder so he's not doing them anymore for the time being.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rockfish71 (Post 2980648)

If you are running a gen 5 or 6 there are two bypass valves installed in the engine block one for the filter bypass and the other one is for the gm factory remote oil cooler witch is up inside the block where the threads for the remote adapter would bolt up to the block remove the one in the middle. where the adapter is and the one offset needs to be changed to a 30 psi or plugged so all the oil will go throught the filter and cooler.
Dont run the engine untill you have the right bypass valve or you will be removing the engine due to you buring it up like a lot of other guys have done. I spent a lot of research on my set up with the right bypass valve install I'm only running a filter on the block and I'm motioring the oil temp then going from there run a good filter like napa 1061 wix do not run fram they are junk.
Do a search here on bypass valves if you would like to talk to me about the whole set up give me a call @ 734 383-0730 ask for Dale

So when i remove all the stuff from my old 502 mag for my new 502 mag what excectaly do i need to take out for valves? Where is the one by block filter boss, is it in the middle of threads, how do i remove it?, im going to reuse the 502 remote filter so i should be god there, but i just need to know that i have all the stuff i need before i sell my old 502.

Ok, here's the deal I ended up with and info I found out, GM marine engines carry NO warranty from GM, any warranty is from whoever you purchase from, and that could become a joke as I found out when I had a issue on a pair of new GM 454 marine engines. if I had it to do over again I would have bought GM crate engines from GM performance parts, made the changes to marine use, and as long as you have a vin # you can use you get a 3 year warranty from GM. Rob

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rockfish71 (Post 2980648)

I'm just taking my old 2000 502 mag apart, stripping it to swap everything to the new 502, i looked in the old 502 and can see a bypass valve in the center of the oil filter boss and also right beside it. So why would i want to plug the offset one and remove the center one if my 502 has one now and i will be useing all the stock fremote filter and oil cooler??? I' m not really clear on the whole oil bypass set up that i need. I havent picked up the new 502 from 1800runsnew but im not sure if it even comes with bypass vales installed and if they are the right ones. How do i tell with out removing the pressed in valves.