JL Audio Amp recomendations?
 

Hey Guys!

Over the winter I am upgrading the stereo in my 24ft Outlaw, I am going to put 4- 8" JL W7 subs under the back seat [wanted 10's, but, just not enough room] and 2 or 3? sets of either JL 7.7's or 6.5's [which would be better?] in the cockpit, there will also be one set of 6.5's/7.7's in the Cabin and a single 10" JL W7 in the cabin as well.

I am gonna drive the 4-8" W7's with a single JL 1000/1 and I have a JL 500/1 for the 10" W7 in the cabin, I am just not sure sure what amp to drive the component speakers with? it will either be a JL 300/4 or something similiar?

What do you guys think?

I also wondered if there would be enough "mid" in the system? the 7.7's have a pretty big woofer and a single tweeter, if I crossover the mids to go through the woofers will there be enough mid/highs so it doesn't sound washed out?

Any input is welcome, I am also gonna mount a couple of volt meters similiar the ones in the "Split Decision" Baja Poker Run boat and a Capacitor.

Thanks everyone!
Michael

cross the 7.7's over as mids and they will KICK....a buddy has his done that way and they sound great (he has 2 pair of 7.7's on a 300/4 and a pair of 10's on a 500/1).

Cool, hoping it sounds good, might be able to get away with a smaller amp to drive the sub in the cabin [10"] but, I think the 500/1 should work good. Would the 300/4 drive 3 sets of 7.7's?

Thanks for the help!
Michael

If you have subs in the cockpit, I wouldn't bother putting them in the cabin at all.....parties down below tend to be feet UP and dancing turns horizontal!!!

The 300/4 will take a 7.7 on each of 4 channels....I wouldn't try to tie in a 3rd set and risk dropping the ohms and hurting some speakers. If you really want that 3rd set in there, get a 150/2 or some other amp/speaker configuration.
When I installed my stuff (mixture of things I already had) I hooked the 4 stock cabin speakers to the actual speaker outputs of the head unit itself.....plenty of music for just hanging out in the cabin.

I have the 6.5 but I would go with the 7.7 ( they were not out when I did mine). I would put the 6.5's in the cuddy because of space. I would also not go with components. It takes more power from your amp to run them. Just get a set of the 1" tweets. It louder and better sound. I have 3 10" jl free air under the rear bench and one in the cuddy. I run two subs off the m1700 and the other two off another m1700. I have four 6.5's in the cockpit with two 1" tweets and two 6.5's in the cuddy. All is ran with a m6600. It is loud and sounds great.

Run the M6600 on the 3 sets of 7.7's. Set the crossover output to let nothing below 150htz to the 7.7 drivers and they will jam. Your sub and amp configuration should be sufficient. Make sure that whomever builds your sub enclosures follows the specs for the W7's or you will have wasted your money. Good luck.

The M6600 is a class A/B amp and the 300/4 is a class D amp. At 12.5v the 6600 is a 6 channel but it puts out 55w rms vs 75w rms on the 300/4......just a thought :)

Thanks again guys!

T500- I was thinking the same thing!, but, the previous owner had already installed a 10" sub in the very front of the cuddy, its quite nicely done, so, I figured rather than taking it out and dealing with the big "hole" I would just put a "good" sub in it [it just has a cheapy "Bazooka" 10" one in there now]

Indywhsle- That looks like a REALLY well thought out system and is very similiar to what I am looking to do, It must sound and pound pretty good! and Thanks for the pics, sweet set up!

Dirty- can the subs be mounted "free air"? I had planned to mount them in the bottom of the back seat [same place as Indywhsle has them mounted] do they require a seperate box to contain them?, or can they just be mounted to the back seat bottom and be left "open" at the back?, if there is enough room, I could get some box material [I think its called "Infinite baffleboard, or something similiar?] and close in the back of the subs if need be, would the boxes need to be individual or would 1 large box work? would I need to port the box or boxes?

THANKS for all the help guys, you have given me a pile of good input already, I will be sure to put it to good use, and PLEASE keep it coming!

Michael

I was also thinking of driving the 4 subs in the cockpit with the 1000/1 and then using one of the new 900/5 JL amps to drive the rest? I could use one channel [500w] to drive the cabin sub, and the rest to drive the 7.7's/6.5's

It would mean buying/wiring 2 amps as opposed to 3, any thoughts?

Michael

pairing up speakers on a larger amp will reduce them from 4ohm to 2 ohm......some speakers have a problem with that and the amp will run much hotter trying to push too many speakers. The 900/5 is not a bad idea, just make sure you use VERY heavy gauge wire. JL makes the 10in subs in "free air" or box only styles, don't remember which model is which but they make both.

Great!, thanks "HP"!!

I will look into it and see which sub is designed for free air use.......next problem! LOL, JL make a Marine amp 900/5 channel, but, dont make a 1000/1, just a regular automotive style, I would kinda like everything to "match", so, was thinking maybe I could use a pair of 750/1's which are marine style to drive the 4 subs at the back?, I think using just one 750/1 wouldn't be enough to drive the 4 subs, 2 of them would be too much though, so, I would have to back them down a bit.

THANKS AGAIN!
Michael

If you really want 4 subs, I'd get 2 500/1's for each pair. Another buddy had that setup and it made your eyeballs bounce!!! I'm real cautious about where the amps are mounted and not overly concerned about using "marine" amps when I'm installing them in the cabin....marine speakers however are much more necessary.

I bought the "free air" subs on ebay recently.......here is the model number for them.

NEW JL AUDIO M10IB5-4 MARINE SUBWOOFER 10" SUB WOOFER

Thanks again "HP"!!

I think rather than run two 500/1's I will just run one 1000/1instead, now you mention it, the amps I have now are mounted in the cabin and they are just regular automotive amps, not "marine" ones.

I dont think JL makes an 8" marine subwoofer though?, just 10" and up, they do however, make a 8" automotive sub.

I am thinking of using 4 of these, what do you think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-AUDIO-8W7-8-3...item53dda30c33

I would go with Boston Acoustic Pro 5, 10" subs. They will sound as good as the 8w7, but go deeper and use a smaller box. And you don't have to worry about where to put the port since it's a closed cab.

Both mine & James only used 1 500/1 amp on 4 subs. The 10" subs are rated at 125W which 500W loads them perfect. It is not a marine amp but none of us have had any problems since it is not in the cabin. It is a great combo. I just bough2 of the new 4 channel marine amps (75W) to run the 4 pair of 7.7's. I do not like to 6 channel amp, overheats easy. I had 2 sets of speakers running on 2 ohms. I dont advise that at all. On hot summer days, they cut out first every time. Going 4 ohms all the way this winter.

Those are not marine subs so I wouldn't use them.......Linster posted below and is opne of the guys systems I have mentioned. The way that system sounds I was certain he had (2) 500/1 but he just stated there is only one. I think he also has (3) sets of 7.7's but not sure......the boat rocks though!!!!

Don't make the amps push too many speakers and keep in mind what he said, if you push the equipment hard it will overheat in the summer and shut down.......and usually only when you've got 20 people bouncing to your music!!!

W7's cannot be mounted free air. If you do not intend to build enclosures, stick with the 10" marine subs. Just a thought, you could build a ported enclosure for 1 10W7 in the cabin and run the free air 10's in the cockpit.

Thanks Guys!, thats great info, I am VERY glad I found out I cant use those subs BEFORE I bought them [they are pricey] I can still use 1-10" in a box in the cabin, but, will probably use marine "free air" subs in the cockpit, who would you guys recommend for a good marine 8" sub?, like I mentioned, I would have loved to squeeze four 10" subs back there, but, there just isn't enough room.

I have been looking at the 8" Polk Audio subs, they use 2 voice coils and are Marine certified, any thoughts??

Thanks again guys, I have learned more in the last 2 days than I have in the last 10 years!

Michael

Depends on what sould you are trying to get. The JL's are the best all around in my opinion, they are very good for clear bass thumping music. They also do well for rock. I had a friend who used JL 10" Subs for Bass, and MB Quart for speakers. Sounded real good also. It was not as bass but more of a very clear high sound. If you never play thump music, this is clearer for rock.

Bottom line is you can go a lot of ways. the key is to match the amps to the speakers correctly. You dont want a speaker rated at 125w and only drive it at 75 or 200. Pick the amps to the speakers. JL does a good job of that There amps are designed for there speakers, not everybodys speakers. Good luck

Good Point!

I am really leaning towards the Polk Audio Marine stuff, it seems pretty well built, I would have preferred the JL Audio stuff, but, I dont think there subs will work, so, I will probably still use JL Drivers and use the Polk Audio speakers/subs.

I prefer "Tight" bass myself, not the "booming" stuff you hear out of every kid with a Honda Accord's car stereo, LOL I guess my "dance music and Ecxtasy" days are over!, LOL.

I assume when matching speakers/amps you use the "RMS" rating of the speaker/sub and power it with an amp[s] that match that rating? I also assume its better to be slightly "under" the RMS rating instead of over?

The Subs I am looking at are "Dual Voice Coil" they are rated at 180W RMS or 360 Peak. what is the idea of the dual voice coils? Do they hook up the same way as a "normal" sub?

Thanks Again!
Michael

I DID check out Boston Acoustics stuff, it looks to be good quality as well, but, they dont make an 8" marine subwoofer either.

The boston stuff IS good quality. And if you prefer a good tight bass, and not the ricer sound, it's a good way to go. The reason why I suggested it, is simply that a 10" will fit in a 0,5 cu.ft. cabinet. A Polk or a JL 8" will need more than that. I think it is rugged enough to survive the marine inviorment. I have a set of 12" in the back of my cabrio car, and they have seen their share of water spray on the freeway, when rain catches you off guard. Welcome to scandinavia. LOL!

I live in Canada, so, Scandinavia is probably "Tropical" compared to what we deal with for weather, ESPECIALLY the last couple of "summers?"

Its not so much the room for the box that limits my install, its the actual height of the panel I am putting the subs in, there just isn't enough room for the diameter of a 10" sub, I wish there was though!

Thanks again!
Michael

I have another quick question? would a single JL Audio 750/1 drive 4-8" Polk Audio subs? the subs are rated at
250W RMS and 500W peak, trying to decide if I can get away with a 750/1 or if I need to step up to the 1000/1

Appreciate the input, Thanks!
Michael

outside my knowledge now......You were asking about equipment I either had, or had spent some time reseaching........the Polk stuff I'm not familiar with.

NO PROBLEM "HP", I DO appreciate all the help and input you have provided, just curious if anyone knows if a single JL 1000/1 V2 will drive four 8" subs [180W/360Peak] Dual Voice coils AND a single 10" sub? The 10" sub is 360RMS/720 Peak

Thanks!
Michael

I am running a 750/1 to drive 4 open air subs.... JL is coming out with a new 1200/1 sometime this winter.. the 750 though is plenty for the open airs..
Also run 2 600/4.. one to drive 4 6.5 the other drives 4 6.5 and 2 7.7

the new 600/4's are amazing.. better then alpine.. and the current draw compared to my old 300/4 and 300/2 is a bonus..

Great! I "should" be able to drive 4-8" and 1-10" with a single 1000/1 then? I have heard a lot of good stuff abou the 600/4, supposed to be a great amp!

Thanks for the input!
Michael

in my opinion.. I would be careful with the 1000/1.. the current draw is huge on those amps.. plus.. you get to a point of no return with bass on a boat.. it is different then a car.. again.. my opinion only.

I am more inclined to run mids and high then subs.. especially if you are tied up and want to hear the music 6 or 7 boats over.. I started with 2 open air JL subs running on the 750/1.. (tuned down of course). that sounded good.. added the other 2.. sounded better.. but.. I did that last.. after all the $$ was spend on the mids and highs.. get 2 of the 600/4's..

just my two cents but, if you can fit it, do yourself a favor and build a sealed enclosure. i am running 4 sony marine 10's on a 3000 watt fusion amp in my 24ft Outlaw, and it is a very clean and tight bass. a good friend does boat stereo installs and i went with his advice building a sealed box. its alot more work and much heavier, but the sound difference is night and day! another friend of mine has 4 JL 10's under the back seat of his 36ft Baja and they are mounted "freeair". it is a very loose sounding bass, which is disapointing in the amount of money he has invested in his install. its more work to go with sealed, but the payoff is alot more out on the water! hope that helps you out some.

Thanks "Boost"!

I have been told the same thing by a few other people, sounds like the enclosed box is the way to go, so, I will do that, the subs in the back will be pretty easy to enclose.

Here is another set up that I am SERIOUSLY considering, tell me what you think:

I will list some part numbers and what I am thinking of driving them with, I have measured several times and there is just NOT enough room for 10" subs, was hoping to go for 10" but, 8" is about as big as I can go. I too like "tight" bass, as opposed to the "booming" bass that some prefer.

I am gonna run 4 sets of Polk Audio 6.5 Components, 1 set in the cabin, and 3 sets in the cockpit part number
MM6501UM they are rated at 125W RMS and 250 Peak

I am gonna run one 10" sub in the cabin, the part number is MM1040DVC its a dual voice coil sub, its rated at 350W RMS and I think the peak is 700

I am gonna run four 8" subs under the back seat, the part number is MM840DVC, its a dual voice coil sub, thats rated at 180W Rms and 360W Peak.

I had planned on driving the sub in the cabin [10"] and 2 sets of components with a single five channel Polk amp part number PAA 11000.5 I had planned on using 4 channels at 2 ohms [125W X 4] to drive the 4 Component speakers and the single subwoofer channel [which is stable to 1 ohm] which would be 600W [or 300W at 2 ohms]

I was planning on driving the other 2 sets of component speakers with a single Polk Audio PA500.4 which is 125RMS X 4.

I had planned on driving the four 8" subs with a single PA1200.1 which is a mono channel amp that is rated at 1200W at 1 Ohm, or 800W at 2 ohm [continous power]

I have a 250AMP circuit breaker and 1/0 gauge wire for the power and ground wires, I have a seperate start battery, and 2 deep cycle Optima batteries for the stereo, I have also stepped up to a 140 amp alternator. The boat has a 12AMP [2 stage] battery charger that I leave plugged in when the boat is on the trailer, and when its in the water at my dock.


THANKS AGAIN!
Michael