Shift bracket wire question.
 

I'm still working on wires in engine compartment. Found what most of them are for. Just these 2 sets of wires left. Large orange and black,and orange red and brown zip tied together. Might they be the shift bracket wires?http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c3...Picture623.jpghttp://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c3...1202091212.jpg

On my 265 the large ORG and BLK go to the hatch actuator. And the RED,ORG,and BRN go to the Mercathode.

Everything else looks very similar to mine.

red,orange.brown are mercathode. orange and black may be hatch or power for K planes, could be some kind of setup for charging sys. try to trace them to where they go.

Mercathode
 

Thanks guys. Is the Mercathode needed? I am running in fresh water only.Is it an expensive system?

More guys on here will know the details, but the I've been told that the Mercathode is definitely needed!

Is the boat left in the water all the time or trailered? If it's always trailered out I wouldn't worry about it.

It's a system that protects your drive against corrosion.It consist of 2 "pucks" mounted on the transom,one on each side of the drive which are wired to a control box. They create a field that protects the drive. If it says Mercury on it you know it's expensive!! If your boat is not in the water 24/7 I wouldn't worry about it.

While your in there get rid of those wire connectors and use heat shrink connectors. Those will corrode and cause problems.

I don't keep it in the water.On trailer. Thanks. I will remove the but connectors.

Go to Autozone and buy a qt of fiberglass resin and seal the holes that go thru the stringers for draining if they are just drilled with no protection. From looking at the pic, it appears to be raw exposed wood.

Get rid of that ugly blue butt connector. The absolute worst way to physically connect two wires. No control over the crimp height on that type of connector.
1) non insulated butt connector
2) "light" crimp both wire ends with your stripped wire conductors (core)
3) solder both ends - no cold solder joints either
4) apply (this is done before you crimp your connector ends) a dual wall shrink tube. Heat and shrink into place
5) Done. You have now the best budget boater electrical connection for your marine application

Thanks I will sure check that. I just got the boat.Still cleaning and checking stuff.http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c3...1205091625.jpg

ware do you boat???

Delaware river. Mostly between Paulsboro New Jersey to Betsy Ross Bridge. At Penns Landing in Philadelphia there are a few good places to dock and grab a bite to eat.