I have water temp and water temp buzzer warning up front and water pressure in the back with the other rear pluged

Thanks Jeff.. I drain the block 2 times a year.. Summer sometime and in Nov/Dec when I lay it up for the winter.. its clear.. the temp flux started the day I fired it up.. has to be something to do with steam pockets.. I have lived with it for 5 years.. but would like to clear it up.. maybe it could be the intake gaskets not "right"? I am using felpro 1275 with a Hurricane intake and Canfield heads.. they are the proper intake gaskets according to Canfield AND Professional products.. (Which is the intake manufacturer)

I can do that.. so where does the 1/2" npt to -6 fitting go? over board on yours?? is it ok if that just goes from front to back on mine?

Also.. I have CMI etops'' They have a plug in them right at the collector.. Can I dump water into that??

I've seen a few of the bigger HP boats tie the dump into the tailpipe's, just never saw it tapped into the header like that. I suppose maybe you could but it might be more cluttered??

You can dump back into the front, no problem. I dumped overboard because #1 I wanted to loose a few pounds of water PSI and #2 I wanted to be able look over the side of the boat at any given time to verify the engines were pumping water without having to climb over sun pad to see exhaust pipes! Eddie marine made a really nice fitting that I could hook the #6 line up to inside the boat. :drink:

Thanks Panther. I might just run a 6an from the back of the intake holes to the front intake holes.. "T" 3 of them.. back "T" for the water pressure and front 2 "T"'s for the water temp and buzzer senders

STEAM POCKETS are usually the wrong head gasket, not intake gasket. No other symptoms in the engine? Really strange.

There are thousands of engines out there that don't channel the water from the back of the engine. Maybe check your exhaust for a hairline crack? Crank the air pressue up pretty high as the problem might only show up once the engine reaches temp.

Same thing with a possible hairline crack in the head??

Just thinking out loud? Try dumping the water first, but if that doesn't help, you might want to start looking somewhere else.

I was told that the use of this type of auxiliary rear to front water passage was developed many years ago with both endurance road racing and desert racing. Both (depending on tracks of course) have long extended periods of WFO throttles. Depending upon one's throttle hand, this does have it's merit in marine performance use too.

Idea is that it allows complete circulation of water from all parts of the engine. Water does accumulate in the back and does not escape the back of the engine. Thus making the rear of the engine slightly warmer than the front.

Drag racing guys used to tell me that I needed to do this and I would make more power.

I actually have a set of twins thaat are plumbed this way.

I did not have the water by passes installed when I dynoed the first engine. The water bypasses are installed on the second engine. I will let you guys know if anything happens after I dyno it.

Bothe engines are set up exactly the same.

Nice.. that is what I am looking to do.. but instead of 90 degree right angles I need to run a “T” and put my sensor and pressure senders in.

I have heard that a steam pocket can be “developed??” due to no circ pump and a crossover. Not sure how true that is..

Maybe..... But there sure are a lot of really big HP engines that don't use a circulating pump.

Let us know what you find.