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-   -   502 carb jetting help. (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/general-q/229711-502-carb-jetting-help.html)

ballon78 05-04-2010 10:50 AM

502 carb jetting help.
 
have new holley 800 dp on new 502 mag 435hp motor. seems aweful rich right off idle at 1200=1300 rpm when im headway speed for 20-30 mins to get out in ocean, when i start to bring up on plane it stumples and coughs if i dont feather the throthle up very slowly. think my front jets are to big for the stock 502?

Any rejetting ideas? Runs perfect at 2500 and above, just seems like it really loading up down low.

bajabob 05-04-2010 11:51 AM

i check the power vale and wt size jets do you have in the carb ??????? your motor should idle 650 to 700 rpm

Thunderstruck 05-04-2010 12:04 PM

Accelerator pump shot too big on the primaries??


Power valve leaking is also a possibility. Do you have a 6.5" PV in the primary?? What is the idle vacuum??

Also, is the motor loading up at idle and the idle is causing the stumble? Does the motor wind up crisply when you rap it out of gear? Maybe adjust the idle circuits down with the motor in gear, warmed up, until the motor dies then back up 1/8 turn on each circuit so you know you are very lean at idle and try again.

What timing are you running at idle and what is the total advance?

Griff 05-05-2010 12:58 AM

Power valve is probably opening up too early and making it load up.

ezstriper 05-05-2010 06:51 AM

sounds more lean than rich, jets have little effect just bringing on plane, accel pump/power valve issues seem like to me, you see black smoke when this happens ? what temp is engine ? timing ?

ballon78 05-05-2010 06:52 AM

Its a Brand New Out of box 800 DP 9022 carb so dont even know what size jets and powervalve are. its idleing much higher like 800, doesn't seem to like o idle real low at 650-700. Have adjusted the mixture screws a few times, think they are at 2 turn now. i have Tunderbolt V so, i think i can only set my timing to the 8 degrees as they say in book after i ground the ECM wire. Some times my idle hangs at 1000-1100 and i have to blimp the throthle to know it down.

The TB V ignitions have Idle control function in the ecm that changes the timing at idle for what ever reason, and i think that is what is happening besides the rich condition.

If i put in gear, and get on throthle it will cut out and backfire sometimes, i have to be real smooth gettinng the throthle then above 2500 i can hammer it hard with out any problem.

ballon78 05-05-2010 06:54 AM


Originally Posted by Thunderstruck (Post 3101773)
Accelerator pump shot too big on the primaries??


Power valve leaking is also a possibility. Do you have a 6.5" PV in the primary?? What is the idle vacuum??

Also, is the motor loading up at idle and the idle is causing the stumble? Does the motor wind up crisply when you rap it out of gear? Maybe adjust the idle circuits down with the motor in gear, warmed up, until the motor dies then back up 1/8 turn on each circuit so you know you are very lean at idle and try again.

What timing are you running at idle and what is the total advance?

Cant rap it out of gear, dont think PV is leaking as it brand new...10 hours on motor. Havent chaecked vacum. what should it be at.

ballon78 05-05-2010 06:57 AM


Originally Posted by ezstriper (Post 3102309)
sounds more lean than rich, jets have little effect just bringing on plane, accel pump/power valve issues seem like to me, you see black smoke when this happens ? what temp is engine ? timing ?

145 degrees water temp, Thunderbolt V so its set at 8 degree's when wire is grounded. new carb, no black smoke, boat runs awesome just have to ease into throthle till it comes out of stumble.

bajabob 05-05-2010 07:17 AM

here wt you got to do!!!take the carb apart and see wt jets and power vales are in it !!!till then you are you are pissing in the wind. when your motor back fires that when the power vale blows. you need to check them!!and did you look at any plugs see what color they are that would help to .

ballon78 05-05-2010 07:43 AM

[QUOTE=bajabob;3102334]here wt you got to do!!!take the carb apart and see wt jets and power vales are in it !!!till then you are you are pissing in the wind. when your motor back fires that when the power vale blows. you need to check them!!and did you look at any plugs see what color they are that would help to .[/QUOTE
Here is specs from holley:

9022 800 jets (F)72,(R)87 Powervalve 6.5 style4150 Marine

Plugs look great after i had a few hours on them, looked perfect color but thats alot of 3500-5000 run time.

Has been running like this since i install new carb and motor so i dont thing the powervalve are blown. Didnt backfire til after it was already running like this. Holley has fixed the backfiring/ powervalve blowing out issue years ago from all I have read but, i could be wrong...They have a check ball valve or something so it doesn't blow the valve out...

thanks

Griff 05-05-2010 01:50 PM

If it basically has an off idle flat spot/bog, then you might need a bigger accelerator pump. Is the carb stock with the 30cc or the 50cc accelerator pump????

FIXX 05-05-2010 02:11 PM

Fixx
 
your way too far out on the idle mixture screws,,1/2 to 1 turn max..your stumble could be several reasons..first try to set the idle mixture correctly,start at 3/4 turn and turn the screws vary little at a time and let the engine calm bown..out is fat in is lein..if your idle screw is set to high then you will get a off idle stumble,set the idle with the secondary stop screw and leave the primary alone..

read this,

http://www.candsspecialties.com/tuning1.html

bajabob 05-05-2010 03:03 PM

idle mixture screws,,1/2 to 1 turn max .i agree with mrfix.the jets set up sounds ok. let your motor idle take carb cleaner spray around the base of the carb to see if you have a leak and if the motor revs up the gasket is not seal . if thats ok i wounld check your timing put it at 34degrees at 3000rpm

getrdunn 05-05-2010 07:10 PM

I see your getting a lot of info here and don't want to add any more confusion to your problem however I would seriously pull it off and pull your bowl covers and metering gaskets. I have pulled down brand new carbs with similar problems and found the metering block gasket was way off from where it was suppose to be. In a nutshell it (they) were blocking holes in the carb base. It's just a manufacturing quality issue. It happens. Just pay close attention when you pull the bowls for insepection. The gaskets can just sometimes shift during assm. from Holley or ???

Thunderstruck 05-05-2010 07:18 PM

Carb thunderbolt V at 8 degrees???? I think my 1998 carb 500 hps had thunderbolt V ignitions. I think the ignitions had 20 degrees advance. At 34 degrees total advance, which is whate you need, you need to be at 14 not 8 at idle. Forget the purple/white wire deal. Put the boat in the water and run the rpms up to 3200 or so and set the timing at 34.

Thunderstruck 05-05-2010 07:24 PM

I believe all the timing was in at 3000 rpm for the thunderbolt V so you should be OK at 3200-3500.

Why can't you rap the throttle out of gear???

Also, setting the idle screws while idling in gear is the best way to set the idle adjustment. Just enough fuel to keep it from dying in gear.

You need to get down and start eliminating issues.

It can't be ..... should not be in your vocabulary right now.

getrdunn 05-05-2010 07:32 PM


Originally Posted by Thunderstruck (Post 3103039)
Carb thunderbolt V at 8 degrees???? I think my 1998 carb 500 hps had thunderbolt V ignitions. I think the ignitions had 20 degrees advance. At 34 degrees total advance, which is whate you need, you need to be at 14 not 8 at idle. Forget the purple/white wire deal. Put the boat in the water and run the rpms up to 3200 or so and set the timing at 34.

I caught that also and forgot to mention it. His idle should clean up a great deal also. I'm just not certain what module he is using. As mentioned take the guess work out of it and time it at full advance. Personally I never check base timing.

getrdunn 05-05-2010 07:38 PM

you probably have done so however also be sure both primary and secondary squirters are working well.

mentalica1102 05-05-2010 07:59 PM

thanks for explanation
--------------
Atlanta Press Release Service

ballon78 05-05-2010 08:36 PM

Here is the TB V info as it different than the TB IV by alot. Its always changing advance so i dont think you can check the advance at at 3500 as depending on load it will chang itself. Thats why they want you to set base timing with wire grounded at 8 degrees....The knock sensor pulls and adds advance.

I have gotten alot of great ideas and info that i need to look into all of these ideas.

See they tell u in the manual to set idle and mixture screw adjustments with the ECM in base timing mode with the wire grounded, is this rally necessary? in gear what should rpms be.

General Description
The Thunderbolt V ignition system has several spark
control features that will be described following:
D
Idle Speed Spark Control
D
Acceleration Spark Advance
D
Mean-Best-Timing Spark Advance
D
Over-Speed Control (Rev-Limiter)
D
Knock Retard Spark Control
NOTE: The Ski models do not have the Mean Best
Timing feature.

Idle Speed Spark Control
The ignition module will control ignition timing to
maintain a calibrated idle speed. This is accom-
plished by making small spark advance adjustments.
This feature is only active within a certain RPM
range. This range may be slightly different from one
engine model to another. The approximate range is
400-700 RPM.

Acceleration Spark Advance
This feature is active during acceleration only. When
accelerating, the ignition module may add more
spark advance to the “Base Spark Timing Curve”.
The amount of spark advance added, is totally de-
pendant on how fast RPM increases (how fast the
throttle is moved). This feature is also active within a
certain RPM range. This range may be slightly differ-
ent from one engine model to another. The approxi-
mate RPM range for this feature is 1200-4000 RPM.
Within this range, the module can add approximately
10 degrees of spark advance to the base spark timing
curve.

Mean-Best-Timing (MBT)
Spark Advance
During light load cruising, the ignition module
searches for the optimal ignition timing. This is also
accomplished by small changes to the spark ad-
vance. At a given RPM, the module will try to add a
small amount of advance and wait to see if there is
an RPM change. If RPM increases, it will try to in-
crease timing more. The module will continue to ad-
vance timing until it no longer gets an increase in
RPM. Conversely, if it senses an RPM drop, it will
start to retard some of the spark timing. The approxi-
mate RPM range for this feature is 1200-4000 RPM.
Within this range, the ignition module can add
approximately 10-15 degrees of spark advance to
the base spark timing curve.

NOTE: The Audio Warning System is also connected
into the ignition module circuit. If the audio warning
system becomes activated by the closing of one of
the audio warning system switches, the MBT feature
is deactivated.

Over-Speed Control
The ignition module will prevent the engine speed
from exceeding a preset limit by stopping the spark.
This feature has an RPM range that varies from mod-
el to model. The over-speed limit for a particular en-
gine is set slightly higher than the top end of the RPM
range for that model. For example, if the recom-
mended range is 4600-5000 RPM, the over-speed
limit would be set at 5100 RPM. When RPM reaches
this limit, spark is turned-off until engine RPM drops
down to a “Reset RPM”, which would be approxi-
mately 4750 RPM for this example. At this point,
spark comes back on.

Knock Retard Spark Control
The knock control feature helps provide protection
from harmful detonation. Knock control is handled by
the Knock Control Module. This module receives a
signal from a sensor that is mounted on the engine
block. The knock control module works in conjunc-
tion with the ignition module to retard the timing if
spark knock is present.

ballon78 05-05-2010 08:43 PM

Timing and Idle Adjustment
Procedures For Thunderbolt
V Ignition

Setting Base Ignition Timing
1. Connect timing light to number 1 spark plug.
Connect timing light power supply leads (if
applicable) to 12 volt source.
2. Connect a shop tachometer to engine.
3. Using a jumper wire, connect the ignition system
timing lead “13” (PUR/WHT wire) to a good en-
gine ground (–). This locks the ignition module
into the “Base Timing Mode”.
4. Start engine and run at normal idle speed. Allow
engine to reach normal operating temperature.
5. Aim timing light at timing tab, located on the tim-
ing gear cover and crankshaft torsional damper.
6. Adjust timing using the conventional method.
IMPORTANT: Be sure to disconnect the jumper
wire from the ignition system test terminal before
attempting to resume normal operations. If the
jumper wire is left in place, the ignition module
will operate in the “Base Timing Mode”. This
means that the additional timing advance fea-
tures would not function.
7. Make sure that the distributor has been tight-
ened. Remove the jumper wire from the timing
terminal.
1. Using a jumper wire, connect the ignition system
timing lead “13” (PUR/WHT wire) to a good en-
gine ground (–). This locks the ignition module
into the “Base Timing Mode”.
2. Adjust idle mixture following the procedure in the
appropriate engine service manual.
3. Remove the jumper wire from the timing terminal.

Adjusting Engine Idle Speed
This procedure should be done with boat in the water,
drive unit in neutral and engine at normal operating
temperature. Refer to the Operation and Mainte-
nance Manual for the correct idle speed.
1. Disconnect the throttle cable from carburetor.
IMPORTANT: In order to properly set idle speed,
the ignition module MUST BE locked in the “Base
Timing Mode”. This is necessary because of the
“Idle Speed Control” feature that exists in the
ignition module. See information on the previous
pages about this feature.
2. Connect a shop tachometer to engine.
3. Using a jumper wire, connect the ignition system
timing lead “13” (PUR/WHT wire) to a good en-
gine ground (–). This locks the ignition module
into the “Base Timing Mode”.
4. Start engine and allow it to reach normal operat-
ing temperature.
5. Adjust idle speed to recommended RPM.
6. Stop engine. Readjust cable barrel and reinstall

getrdunn 05-05-2010 09:29 PM

wow

bajabob 05-05-2010 09:29 PM

http://www.cpperformance.com/c-161-distributors.aspx here wt i did i got a msd with the box and set mine up .idles 650 in gear and timing at 34 she runs great tops at 5600rpm i took all merc stuff off . but that me . i got one more thing for you to check the is the float level . make shore it not to high that will make you run bad at a idle !!good luck

FIXX 05-05-2010 09:50 PM

Fixx
 

Originally Posted by ballon78 (Post 3103103)
Here is the TB V info as it different than the TB IV by alot. Its always changing advance so i dont think you can check the advance at at 3500 as depending on load it will chang itself. Thats why they want you to set base timing with wire grounded at 8 degrees....The knock sensor pulls and adds advance.

I have gotten alot of great ideas and info that i need to look into all of these ideas.

See they tell u in the manual to set idle and mixture screw adjustments with the ECM in base timing mode with the wire grounded, is this rally necessary? in gear what should rpms be.

General Description
The Thunderbolt V ignition system has several spark
control features that will be described following:
D
Idle Speed Spark Control
D
Acceleration Spark Advance
D
Mean-Best-Timing Spark Advance
D
Over-Speed Control (Rev-Limiter)
D
Knock Retard Spark Control
NOTE: The Ski models do not have the Mean Best
Timing feature.

Idle Speed Spark Control
The ignition module will control ignition timing to
maintain a calibrated idle speed. This is accom-
plished by making small spark advance adjustments.
This feature is only active within a certain RPM
range. This range may be slightly different from one
engine model to another. The approximate range is
400-700 RPM.

Acceleration Spark Advance
This feature is active during acceleration only. When
accelerating, the ignition module may add more
spark advance to the “Base Spark Timing Curve”.
The amount of spark advance added, is totally de-
pendant on how fast RPM increases (how fast the
throttle is moved). This feature is also active within a
certain RPM range. This range may be slightly differ-
ent from one engine model to another. The approxi-
mate RPM range for this feature is 1200-4000 RPM.
Within this range, the module can add approximately
10 degrees of spark advance to the base spark timing
curve.

Mean-Best-Timing (MBT)
Spark Advance
During light load cruising, the ignition module
searches for the optimal ignition timing. This is also
accomplished by small changes to the spark ad-
vance. At a given RPM, the module will try to add a
small amount of advance and wait to see if there is
an RPM change. If RPM increases, it will try to in-
crease timing more. The module will continue to ad-
vance timing until it no longer gets an increase in
RPM. Conversely, if it senses an RPM drop, it will
start to retard some of the spark timing. The approxi-
mate RPM range for this feature is 1200-4000 RPM.
Within this range, the ignition module can add
approximately 10-15 degrees of spark advance to
the base spark timing curve.

NOTE: The Audio Warning System is also connected
into the ignition module circuit. If the audio warning
system becomes activated by the closing of one of
the audio warning system switches, the MBT feature
is deactivated.

Over-Speed Control
The ignition module will prevent the engine speed
from exceeding a preset limit by stopping the spark.
This feature has an RPM range that varies from mod-
el to model. The over-speed limit for a particular en-
gine is set slightly higher than the top end of the RPM
range for that model. For example, if the recom-
mended range is 4600-5000 RPM, the over-speed
limit would be set at 5100 RPM. When RPM reaches
this limit, spark is turned-off until engine RPM drops
down to a “Reset RPM”, which would be approxi-
mately 4750 RPM for this example. At this point,
spark comes back on.

Knock Retard Spark Control
The knock control feature helps provide protection
from harmful detonation. Knock control is handled by
the Knock Control Module. This module receives a
signal from a sensor that is mounted on the engine
block. The knock control module works in conjunc-
tion with the ignition module to retard the timing if
spark knock is present.

the article posted is for the newer style carburetors,their controlled by the ignition module and are choke less or at least the 2 barrel version is..

so you installed a Holley on your boat now all that info is useless, set your timing procedure and go from their on the carburetor issues...you will need to do this by touch and feel of how the engine performs..i can go on and on about accelerator pump sizes,air bleeds,metering block modifications,accelerator pump cams,accelerator pump squatters but with out seeing it or hearing it run i would be here for hours trying to explain to you what to do.
you may want to buy a Holley tuning book and read up on your carburetor to get the feel for what your trying to accomplish :)

ballon78 05-06-2010 06:22 AM


Originally Posted by getrdunn (Post 3103163)
wow

WOW?

ballon78 05-06-2010 06:25 AM


Originally Posted by bajabob (Post 3103164)
http://www.cpperformance.com/c-161-distributors.aspx here wt i did i got a msd with the box and set mine up .idles 650 in gear and timing at 34 she runs great tops at 5600rpm i took all merc stuff off . but that me . i got one more thing for you to check the is the float level . make shore it not to high that will make you run bad at a idle !!good luck

Really dont want to buy new parts when mine are perfect, Just bought a new ECM becuase mine was a non-mag and had rev-limiter at 4750 and i like the idea of a knock sensor and always changing the advance for the best situation.

I want reliababilty and won't run the msd stuff, everyone i know on here and around be carry an extra msd box, because its not if it will fail, but when. having a single engine i cant put, put home like twins can.

ballon78 05-06-2010 06:37 AM

Float levels are good, just below threads and only spill out when i rock boat with caps off...Im going to spend some time this weekend and try to dial it in better and look at a few thing that you folks have mentioned, I have lots of ideas now.

The thunderbolt V system was one my boat from new and so was a AFB carb, which wasnt ecm controlled.....basicly all i did was swap blocks and new carb. everything else is same.

When i recheck timing and fuel screws, and idle should i do it all with the boat in gear?

bajabob 05-06-2010 07:34 AM

ok thats good floats fine. 1990 i install a msd box and it still works good for me i have msd install in my two cars gto and camaro. ok you wt to use the old stuff . you have to do the timing at a idle . i would set it at 14 not 8 let it warm up then put it gear and adjust your carb . good luck:drink::drink:

ezstriper 05-06-2010 08:02 AM

with the flame arrester off, not running, ck to see if you a good accel pump shot when you open the throttle, you may have to change the cam position or the cam itself..also may have to up the shooter to get a better shot..Rob


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