No Voltage to Port
 

My 35 Cigarette woke up Saturday with an issue I have never come across.
I went to fire up the port engine, turned on the key and there was no normal gauge movement. The battery switch was on, 12.3v at battery.
I suspected the 90 amp fuse so removed exhaust yesterday and checked it, it was good. While there I checked for voltage at the positive cable for the starter, NO juice. I removed the batteries and had them tested - they are OK and have a full charge.
The breakers @ the batterery switch cabinet are not tripped and I even tried to reset anyway. It does not matter what position the battery switches are in. It is as though there is a break in the cabling from the battery to the starter.
The route is battery to Parallel switch to battery switch. From there to the starter is a little confusing. The cabinet has breakers for the engine hatch, drive trim, tabs, and a switch w/ gauge to check battery status.
Any suggestions. All was well three weeks ago when I started both fresh engines and then it sat until the issue. it has not been in the water since Christmas.

check the circuit breaker by the fuel filter housing or on the back behind the distributor

Did that
 

Thanks.
I have, but that would not explain the lack of power at the positve cable @ the starter.

wrong, the 50 amp breaker controls that signal circuit... on mine it does for sure

I am sorry.
I thought since I was checking for power on the positive cable it would be raw, meaning bypassing all interupters except the battery switches. I even did the check with the cable removed from the main post of the solenoid.
I will check out the 50 amp near the exhaust riser again.

Thanks

Fixx
 

I know what buiz is saying but you stated that their was no power on the big honkin cable going to the starter which feeds the breaker its power..do you have any solenoids??

i would start at the battery switch,,they do go bad..

Update
 

Well after 3 hours of work with my brand new multi meter I now have 12.5 v to the 'big honkin' cable at the starter, from there to BOTH sides of the 50 amp breaker and to one side of the of the solenoid that is next to the 50 amp breaker. Still no power to ignition switch. I have used the probe portion of the positive lead and confirmed there is no issue at the helm. Something is preventing power from leaving the solenoid or starter area and getting to the ignition switch. I say that because I am not sure where the power to the ignition switch comes from, the starter solenoid or the remote / slave solenoid.
I have compared the conditions of the port engine w/ those of the ST engine and the same readings exist with one exception, the ST ignition switch has power and the engine starts.

Does this slave solenoid play a role in this?
Do they go bad? I realize it is a 'switch' but I have never had to replace one.

Thanks

the slave solenoid is probably the culprit

there is an old Ford style Merc solenoid that is notorious for failure, the newer and smaller Merc solenoid seems more reliable, they are cheap

Solenoid
 

For good or bad, since I am a Ford guy at heart, I am very aware of the two post(small wire) fender mounted solenoid that Ford used for almost ever. This is a small version of that and exactly the same as far as number of wires, two big guage (8 or 10) on terminals w/ nuts and two smaller (14 or 16) that are 'push on' style.
I will purchase a new one on Monday and try it.

Thanks to all.

Sierra and Standard Igniton both make replacements for these, but I would stay with the newer more compact Merc part.