Joe Gibbs Racing Oil
 

Anyone use Joe Gibbs racing oil? Any feed back?

no... but i have a question... and i'm not trying to be a wiseass...

in a world where there are well known, infinitely tested and proven superior oils made by major manufacturers that you can buy anywhere at reasonable price.. every kind of symthetic and petro oil there is on the shelf thats been run in eveything from 5000 hp blower motors to 20,000 rpm F1 motors, why would you see the need to go with " specialty blend" with a customer base roughly that of motel on the new jersey turnpike that may or may not do what you need it to do ? do you suddenly doubt that mobil or castrol or amsoil have forgotten how to make oil ?

first rule of engineering. never fix anything that isn't broken.

and oil is one of those things that isn't broken

It's all about the Zinc.

Yes i have used Joe Gibbs oil. My motors we broke in on Gibbs BR and i have 20 hrs on the Gibbs Hot Rod oil 15-40 Syn. it is EXPENSIVE. Very good oil for a flat tappet combo!!

But may be it is broke..... the oils we use today are not what we used 10 years ago. They have been stripped of all the important additives to satisfy the EPA (Zinc (ZDDP) is a proven wear preventive, Molybdenum disulphide is an exceptional lubricant).
Joe Gibb's Racing oil is not for street use...racing only! But it has all the good "stuff" our engines need.
Since Walmart doesn't carry M-1 15w-50 (not even on their order guide to special order it) I have been on a quest to find alternatives. This looks like a good one.... but EXPENSIVE, so are our motors though.....

Brad Penn oil also is very high in Zinc.

WOW.... Similar to Gibbs in additives, Half the price on Amazon search....

Thank You

Randy

I am in search of a new oil. I have been using Mobil 1 15W50 Extented Performance , gold cap, for a long time. Now, Mobil has decided not to make it anymore. I am considering using standard 15W50 Mobil 1 instead. Anyone have any feedback on this?

I have very good luck with Valoline Vr oil. It is still loaded with zddp.

i've been runnin brad penn in my big block chevelle for 5 yrs now. 755hp without the sqeeze:evilb: just bought my boat and put brad penn in it also.

a good alternative would be royal purple, its about $2 more a quart but is a very good oil, I use the "street" version even in my race car...Rob

Thanks for all the feed back. My engine builder highly recommended Bill Gibbs oil because of the Zink content. I am running flat tappet cams, so for me, to spend alittle more on oil changes and extend the life of my engines.....Im in !

i understand the zinc deal. but it would seem to me that within the context of the new formulations required by law, that the chemists at mobile and castrol and the rest have worked that out...

which begs this serious question...

do you actually believe that a quart of oil that you found in your garage unopened from 15 years ago would be a superior lubricant across the board to the same product produced today ?

i don't. i think a top of the line , off the shelf , pure synthetic
made by mobile or castrol or any of the others would generate better results in any objective scientificly based test regime that it could be subjected to.

i am skeptical that a modern flat tappet motor could have such extraordinary oil requirements as to require some
" home brew" oil company to create something from scratch. the metallugy is well understood by everyone involved.

why re invent the wheel. everyone wants to believe there is always some magic bean or trick required that the factories are too stupid to think of... drilling holes in thermostats , running bizzare clearences, all the usual mythologies but the fact of the matter is that very very rarely does the aftermarket do something materially better than the factories do.

and this magic bean snake oil is , in my opinion, very likely to be just another case of white shoes, plaid pants marketing BS

I hope your engine builder is smart enough to realize there is no such thing as "Bill Gibbs" oil. I've heard of Joe Gibbs Oil but...:eek:

Zinc became a major player in flat tappered cams in the NASCAR world; that's not the only thing it helps with but a big part of it ... Our oil is less than half the price of Gibbs oil. Would be glad to get anyone some sent out to test. I run the renegade 20w-50 part syn in my boat.

P.s. One of childress demo cars just dynoed ours against Gibbs and it out performed on that particular car and motor.

+ 1:drink:

www.goldenmotorguard.com/

If you are looking for zinc.

Ken

Ooops. Hahhaaha, sorry. At least I ddnt say Andy Gibb Oil!

I would just like everyone to know the remaining amount of ZINC and Phosphorus in my AMSOIL Series 2000 Racing Oil 20w-50 after 60 hours. My Zinc content was 1389ppm and Phosphorus was 1306ppm. Thats after a hard season of running. Also remember, if the formulation isn't exactly right, and you have too much ZINC, the oil WILL foam.

Just wanted to thank everyone for all the info. Didnt realize how important oil ingredients were !

:drink:+2

Mobil is still making 15-50, but it is a race only formula. That is why Wally's is not carrying it anymore. My local distributor has it on hand. It say's race use only on the bottle now. Has higher zinc and phosphorous. Can't use in street vehicles because it will eat up your converter, or at lest that is what the car manufactures say.

Penzoil still makes a 25-50wt racing oil as well that is high in zinc.

castrol full synthedic syntec 20/50 said its made for flat tappet cams has lots of zinc

I used Gibbs Oil in my motors to break them in. My builder said that is what should be used. I figure if he built them and is standing behind them then I will do what he says.

Watch out for 100% ester-based synthetics in boats unless you get your oil temp well over 210 degrees on a regular basis. Accumulated water condensation in esters can create acids.

I did use the Joe Gibbs Break in oil for the first 25 hours. My engine builder likes the Valvoline VV851 20W-50, so that is what I use.

Just an FYI... I was a diehard Valvoline VR-1 20w50 user in all my performance boats... that is until my recent failure in my 575sci. I ended up loosing a cam lobe (flat tappet) and subsequently killed the cam and lifter. I sent the oil out for testing and per Valvoline's website, the zinc count should have been upwards of 1400 and my results came back in at 617. No where near where it needed to be. Mind you this oil had 1.5 hours hours on it as well. So with that said, no more valvoline for me. Once the motors are done, Joe Gibbs for the break-in and then Brad Penn. Even though I won't be running flat tappets anymore, still great oils to run!

I was told by my machinist and my spec and build sheet man Bob Madera to break in on Joe Gibbs and run Bradd Penn all the way. Used to run VR-1. and have heard from one very respected engine builder to just run oil i.e. castrol, valvoline, bradd penn. no full synthetics. all i know is that his engines have been dummy proof and pushing that boat for 3 years now. Bet the bulk of you guys know who he is...

Is it PSLONAKER? LOL :party-smiley-004:

No its WESCO!