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what oilpan for 383 stroker, stock is hitting !!
my buddy just had his late 80's? 350 built to a very mild 383 stroker
engine builder is an aquaintaince and has been building engines ( including marine) for 25 years buddy gets the engine finally installed, starts it and clunk,clunk,clunk,clunk...... called the builder and he said the crank is prolly hitting the pan, said the "vortech" pans are real close and they tapped it out in an area and it was ok but tight, recommended loosening and shifting the pan, because maybe it got slid during transport, setting down, installing, etc. and it is real tight clearance. unfortunately the engine needs to be pulled again to get to even the pan bolts !!!! and my buddy had to leave for a week trip, only to arrive back home one day before 4th weekend...... so...... is there a better marine pan ( any difference?) that will work with this crank since it will be out? thanks Ramb |
Just crank the stereo up until the sound goes away... :lolhit:
If you have to pull the engine anyway it's not hard to yank the pan and give it a couple whacks with a hammer. You should be able to see where the rod bolts are hitting the pan and target those areas. It doesn't take much to get it to clear. If they're contacting right at the pan rail a little heat will help you reshape the metal. Also, if it doesn't already have one the thick one piece pan gasket will give you some extra clearance. Good luck. :drink: |
Originally Posted by Rambunctious
(Post 3146164)
my buddy just had his late 80's? 350 built to a very mild 383 stroker
engine builder is an aquaintaince and has been building engines ( including marine) for 25 years buddy gets the engine finally installed, starts it and clunk,clunk,clunk,clunk...... called the builder and he said the crank is prolly hitting the pan, said the "vortech" pans are real close and they tapped it out in an area and it was ok but tight, recommended loosening and shifting the pan, because maybe it got slid during transport, setting down, installing, etc. and it is real tight clearance. unfortunately the engine needs to be pulled again to get to even the pan bolts !!!! and my buddy had to leave for a week trip, only to arrive back home one day before 4th weekend...... so...... is there a better marine pan ( any difference?) that will work with this crank since it will be out? thanks Ramb |
thanks haxby
we'll see if he want to "heat and beat to shape regardless of dimensions" - favorite saying of my mechanical engineering professor in grad school hey mrfixall is that pan number the crusader marine pan ($216) http://www.marinepartssource.com/new...ts&mfgno=31145 or the milodon racing pan ($345) also, how doe y our 336 run with those 600's? were they 525sc's at first? I have 525sc's in my 336 thanks Ramb |
Fixx
Originally Posted by Rambunctious
(Post 3146981)
thanks haxby
we'll see if he want to "heat and beat to shape regardless of dimensions" - favorite saying of my mechanical engineering professor in grad school hey mrfixall is that pan number the crusader marine pan ($216) http://www.marinepartssource.com/new...ts&mfgno=31145 or the milodon racing pan ($345) also, how doe y our 336 run with those 600's? were they 525sc's at first? I have 525sc's in my 336 thanks Ramb http://www.milodon.com/oil-pans/stre...ns-sbchevy.asp i know i paid under 200 for the pan,,works great no issues with loss of oil pressure,it has trap doore in it to keep the oil around the p/u screen.. my 336 came with 502 465 hp oe but when i got it it had 330 hp in it... I put the 600's in it then took them out and changing things around and fixing things up a bit..i sold off the b&m blowers, freshening up the motors and installing pro chargers..i also need to get hydraulic steering because i know I'm going to kill my self |
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