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If an oil's flow rate meets or performs "like" a 20w oil and when elevated to the proper test temp, meets or performs "like" an SAE 50 that particular is a multi-viscosity oil period.
It does not make any difference if the oil was blended with straight cut base stocks or with a polymer. If thereis a "w" in the descriptor of the viscosity, I am sorry to say, it is a multi viscosity. Knot 4 me sorry for jumping in your S***, but just because Mercury says something doesn't mean it is correct, espically with something they don't even manufacture. Ken |
Originally Posted by minxguy
(Post 3175597)
If an oil's flow rate meets or performs "like" a 20w oil and when elevated to the proper test temp, meets or performs "like" an SAE 50 that particular is a multi-viscosity oil period.
It does not make any difference if the oil was blended with straight cut base stocks or with a polymer. If thereis a "w" in the descriptor of the viscosity, I am sorry to say, it is a multi viscosity. Knot 4 me sorry for jumping in your S***, but just because Mercury says something doesn't mean it is correct, espically with something they don't even manufacture. Ken |
Originally Posted by minxguy
(Post 3175597)
If an oil's flow rate meets or performs "like" a 20w oil and when elevated to the proper test temp, meets or performs "like" an SAE 50 that particular is a multi-viscosity oil period.
It does not make any difference if the oil was blended with straight cut base stocks or with a polymer. If thereis a "w" in the descriptor of the viscosity, I am sorry to say, it is a multi viscosity. Knot 4 me sorry for jumping in your S***, but just because Mercury says something doesn't mean it is correct, espically with something they don't even manufacture. Ken That's the key differentiator in my mind. :) Here's an informative article here for the others concerned about using a multi-visc. vs. straight weight; http://www.blackstone-labs.com/oil-viscosity.php |
20W50 Mobil ONE
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My favorite brand that seems to work best is........FRESH OIL.
Everbody gets their panties in a bunch over what brand is better than the next, 25w40 vs straight 40, and so on. you can have brad penn, amsoil, royal purple, or whatever you spend 10 bucks a quart on, and if you dont change it often, its as good as junk once it get contaminated with fuel, carbon, moisture, etc. My advice is use a good name brand 20w50 and use a wix filter, change it often, and keep tune up in top running order. The engines will live a long time. Your 4.3 will be fine with some castrol or pennzoil from wally world. Big rig engines go a million plus miles, mostly using fleet oils. Diesels or not, bearings are bearings, lubrication is lubrication. Key is maintance intervals. |
Teague would likely run dinosaur piss in the race boat if his sponsor requested :drink:
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20W50 Brad Penn :eek: there is no other :party-smiley-004:
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Originally Posted by MILD THUNDER
(Post 3176398)
My advice is use a good name brand 20w50 and use a wix filter, change it often, and keep tune up in top running order. The engines will live a long time. Your 4.3 will be fine with some castrol or pennzoil from wally world.
Big rig engines go a million plus miles, mostly using fleet oils. Diesels or not, bearings are bearings, lubrication is lubrication. Key is maintance intervals. All the other claims are snake oil. A good brand name oil changed at regular intervals is the key. |
Originally Posted by apollard
(Post 3176520)
+1, with the cavet for flat tappets of choosing one with 1000 ppm zinc / phosphorus (good choices in all brands for that).
All the other claims are snake oil. A good brand name oil changed at regular intervals is the key. |
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