Help - Mud Sucking Low Water Pick-ups
 

Bravo 1 - 2000 (502 gen VI) with LWP sucked up mud . Could not free the system and had to be towed in to avoid lovely 220*+ engine temps. Where do I start? Remove hoses off bottom of water pump and try to push back out drive? Coat hangar in actual outdrive holes?

What can I do about blued Q&Q system from high engine temps? What else should I be wary of? Had fresh oil but should I now change it?

Future? This situation due to low water levels in the chain of lakes I boat on will no doubt present itself again? What is the best fix? A lower with sidewater picks alone might not be good with the stepped hull/aeration issues.

THANKS IN ADVANCE!

Tim

i just did the same thing. packed mine full of sand. backflush everything. check / replace your impeller. stay in deep water.

mud
 

26ZX,

Pull off hose from transom assembly to sea pump, back flush outdrive.

Pull sea pump, disassemble, check/replace impeller. Also check if plate next to impeller is scored. The ps heat exchanger (horizontal mount on bellhousing) tends to get plugged as it's first in line. Pull hoses off both ends, look through with flashlight. You may need to poke through the passageways with a wire.

Pull thermostat housing, check for obstruction.

If you have a water pressure guage, you may also need to back flush the hose leading to the guage.

Where on chain did this happen?

Also, was that you at Livorsi a few weeks ago at lunchtime. I was with my son getting some more guages and bezels for my Whipple project.

Best Regards,

Mark S.

Tim,

blued q&q may be cause to check flappers in exhaust tips. They're rubber coated on the edges and high temps caused by lack of water in exhaust may have deteriorated them.

Wouldn't hurt to change oil, but 220 isn't that high relative to what oil runs in autos.

You have to trim way up in most channels on the chain. Blarney is one of the worst spots. While your jockeying for a slip, your in some real shallow water. You can see the mud churning. Reverse helps as the thrust pushes "clear" surface water past the pickups. Trim up until you see the prop thrust behind you. Makes it a ***** to steer straight and it's harder on U joints but it's cheap insurance.

When comming off plane, trim up as the stern sinks down too.

Mark S.

Mark,
That was me at Livorsi. I've been boating on the chain for 12 years now, but this is only the second season with Low Water PU. It happened coming out of channel by McD's. Does the two large hoses that come through transom go first to sea water pump? I will jam a hose and backflush. Sea water pump (looking at motor from pulley side) is located down low/left correct? Power steering heat exchange is mounted on the transom wall? I'll be working on it tonite and will get a better idea of things. I was so disgusted I just trailered it home and covered.
Tim

Tim,

Large black hose goes from angle fitting on inner transom plate to bottom fitting on sea pump. You're correct about the location of the sea pump (it's also hard to remove all the nuts on the mounting studs holding it to the bracket). The top hose from the sea pump goes to the ps heat exchanger (probably the one on your transom). If you remove the water inlet hose from the black plastic fitting on the inner transom plate, you can stick a garden hose in the fitting to back flush the drive. You may want to buy a length of hose and fittings so you can generate some pressure to blow out any mud/sand through the bravo.

I had this happen once, but because I have a water pressure guage, I noticed zero pressure when getting on plane. I shut down before getting too hot. I may install sea strainers but I've heard they may not stop the mud. At any rate, the water pressure guage helps.

Mark S.

Maybe you should consider an offshore pickup and sea stainer.

I was considering a transom mounted low water pick-up with a sea strainer. Bryan Tuvell, one of our members, was considering using the stock PU plus a transom mount, "Y" pipe them together into a sea strainer (same boat). Thoughts?

Try the standard pickup bravo. Installing a transom pickup will eliminate water flow through the drive. I don't know if that will fry it or not just FYI.

Treadwell uses side water pickup Bravos on his Factory race boats. And they are stepped hulls. The solution is to drill, tap and plug the top two holes on either side of the lower case. It's also been said that a "side pickup" drive can give a 2mph increase in top end over a "low water pickup" drive.

This one is for sale, by the way.:D

Eric

26 if you have an intercooler be sure to clean that out as well as the block. The intercooler isnt as forgiving as the motor. One quick to fry the motor. I did it! Blarny island no less! It took 2 more months for the problem to trash the motor and I didnt find the problem until I removed the motor. Rod a Performance Marine fixed me up with a std side pickup bravo. Maybe a 2 mph gain and no plugging will result? Hope so. Good luck Greg 815-218-1603

CheckmateF1 - Eric,
Is this lower set up like Treadwell's with holes blocked as you stated? I assume that is an aftermarket nosecone that was added? How much for the unit - can I (relative dumb ass re: engines/outdrives) have my stock gears/shafts put in this lower? How much? e-mail me if you would like.

HPJunkie - Greg,
Did you change this on a stepped hull type boat? How much did Rod charge you for one? See fourth question above - internals?

Thanks guys.

Also, I removed raw water pump last nite and flushed system. There was quite a bit of debris that exited pick ups. I also flushed the engine through the output of the raw water pump. After doing I got to thinking - GEE, I hope this doesn't revert back into cyclinders. Well, please tell me "no worries mate".

Tim

26, You should have no problems with the cylinders, They are sep. systems. Although after you put it back together I would run it on the hose and remove the side block drains while running. your hand will probably fill up with sand and mud. Run it until the water is clear. You might rev it a little from time to time to increase the water movement. Carefull the water might get a little hot. Also remove the bottom hose of the exhaust manifolds. (another low point). My block wouldnt drain at all. I had to poke it with a wire to loosen up the crud. If your motor runs any hotter than before you might try to remove the t-stat, sometimes sand can make those operate erratically. The t-stat is prob ok because most of that bottom is mud leaves and those little snails. I dont lnow what Rod would charge for that swap. I bought my drive from him and we traded relativley quickly. Greg

Im not sure if Treadwell has the holes plugged or not. But that's what I do on my boat, and I don't have a stepped bottom. I could plug them for you if you end up buying it. No biggie.

Yes all your stock internals you have now will swap right into this case. It is a 98 model. The nose cone is a WPM and was recently installed by Bruce Dudley who did my new motor. As you can see it still needs to be blended and painted.

I was going to use it on my boat until I found out that the oil passage will not line up with my old 89 upper Bravo.

The price is $600. firm + shipping

I was quoted by a Merc shop for the swap. 4 hours labor at $65/hr. Plus any parts. Which, since yours is new, probably won't need any parts except for maybe seals and shims.

Let me know,

thanks, Eric