Originally Posted by MarkDonzi (Post 3286265)

Hey Guys,

I had all kinds of header problems on my 525 boat. Moved up to 600 SCI's different boat. Headers look the same but no problems so far.

Are 600 headers made the same as the 525's?

Thanks, Mark

Originally Posted by crb76 (Post 3242661)

I just my CMI back to the factory last month. They had 200 hours on them. CMI will test, seal, repair (if they can) and polish them out for you if you give them $150 per side plus shipping. It is cheap insurance. They can fix problems if the are just starting to develop. I hightly recomend it every 200 for the first check and 100 after that.

They come back like this!

Originally Posted by f_inscreenname (Post 3242908)

Well there goes my dream. $8000 for manifolds for a 525 alone makes it all not worth it. If I have to go that fast, with 8 grand for the manifolds I'll buy a flat bottom drag boat.

Originally Posted by paul buckner (Post 3243089)

you got me thinking now on the bringk of buying to sets off Etop headers for my twin 496ho and a read n this post a they allso come apart and leak not as many but some?? i had made my mind up that the Etop were the ones i would buy not too sure now any one had problem with Etop 496 kit ???? paul England

Originally Posted by omerta one (Post 3243739)

What is normal life expectancy for headers in terms of years vs hours; salt vs fresh???

Originally Posted by 575cat (Post 3243906)

I believe someone was looking for a single header for a 600 or 700 a couple months back because of a crack issue. I talked to jerry at stainless marine last weak and he says they have had only one failure in 20 + years, an external water leak, he says if the manifold leaks it is designed to leak externally .

Originally Posted by Tom A. (Post 3285186)

I have the same volume and pressure coming out the exhaust as I did before the drains were installed and have had NO temperature increase in the exhaust or pipes. I pull the boat after each run or at max. after a weekend and the motors get a thorough fresh water flush.
The picture below shows no significant water coming out the tubes, plenty of water out the tailpipes, and no steam.
The idea of leaving water sitting in the pipes to me makes no sense if you can get it out. Besides the corrosion factor, let's say you do have a weld failure or crack, if there is no water sitting in the tubes, there is no water to drain back into the cylinders.
Most damage occurs from the motors sitting for awhile, the water slowly seeping into a port. Go to start it up and Boom!

The only drawback I have found is you do get little stains from the water dribbling down the transom. Nothing a little Spray-Nine can't fix.:drink:

Originally Posted by PhantomChaos (Post 3289830)

I like this. Are the holes you added below the waterline?

Originally Posted by Philm (Post 3289905)

I drain mine after every use anyway, but this would save me the effort of taking off the hose clamps.

Originally Posted by Dave M (Post 3289920)

Don't you have the blue drain plugs? I thought they all did?