Pulling engines ???
 

Okay
On Saturday, I yanked everything off the front of the 2 engines, risers, exhaust tubes, all wiring harnesses, carbs, tstat housings, all hoses, and now im ready to yank them out,
My main question is simple

Yank both drives , fine no prob,
The 2 bolts (motor mounts thru bolted to stringers) take the big 1 inch nuts off - that I get
What I dont get is the back, do you leave the bell housing on the engine and take the two 3/4 inch bolts out of the top of the bell housing OR do you undo the whole bell housing from the block?

Any and all help will be greatly appreciated
Thanks
Jason

Jason, First thing is you don't have to pull off everything on the motors.You should have had a plug on the back of the engine to disconect the main harness,then remove your positve cable and any grounds.On your side mounts its easeir to remove the lags in the stringers and then remove the 2 3/4 in. headed bolts in rear of bellhousing.Any additional hoses or wiring will be aparent when you raise the engine.When you go to install the engines its alot easier to make the engines as complette as possible before you drop them in.

Well this boat is a 1990 so there is no simple wiring harness disconnect (I wish it were that easy)
Anyway, Okay that is good, the bolts through the stringers look easier to get out anyway rather than the 1 inch nuts on top.
But the 3/4 inch bolts on the back bell housing will disconnect it off the transom assembly and allow it to come out and free?

What about the starters? Raise engines up a bit and get to them easier?
This baja is TIGHT in the engine compartment
I mean TIGHT!!!
Jason

All you have to get off the starters are the wires and you can get those as you raise engine,90 Baja should have wiring disconect on back starboard side of each engine,it should have a hose clamp around harness connector.

You just unbolt the two big bolts on the transom assy. and the motor mounts. Leave the bell housing on. There will be other connections like ground straps and battery connections too.

Be sure to mark those stringer brackets and engine mounts. By reinstalling them exactally will greatly ease your alignment. Double jointed elbows helps also.

Well a friend has an engine alignment tool that I was going to use to get them properly set, dont need to chew up any shafts, bearings, races or the like (taking into account that this whole thing is pissing me off big time anyway)

I did take all the grounding wires off the bolts of the bell housing already and disconnected the water line from the drive to the pump also, the power steering cooler thing shoved under the engines was a ***** too but got the small hose off of it and clamped a bolt in the line to keep fluid in the pump itself.

Any thing else I need to know under the engine that needs to be disconnected that I cant see other than the starter wires?
Thanks
Jason

Mark everything!!
 

It would be a good idea to mark all of those ground straps and small ground wires on the back of the engine. Otherwise, if you're luck is like mine, you will miss one of them when you put it all back together and something will not work, or the engine won't start or turn over, or something else stupid like that. Also, a digital camera (or regular camera) or even a video camera is helpful to refer back to when you have to put this mess back together again. I videotaped mine, and added narration to myself ("okay, I don't know what the hell this wire is for, but this is where it was connected!") :D This came in real handy when it comes time for everything to go back together - might save you a ton of time and head scratching.

You should not have to disconnect anything from the starters until the engine is out, besides the main positive to the battery. The wires going to it are part of the main harness mentioned above. This harness will also go to the alternator and ignition module/distributor. I found it to be easier to leave the harness attached to the individual parts and just "peel" everything off the engine as a unit after it is on the stand. Make a note of where the wiring is routed too, so you don't come up short on some of your connections or pinch a wire.

Good luck, and let the fun begin! :D

Well all the bolts and things have gone into baggies and labeled to where they came from.
All the wires have been tagged and labeled as to where they go, the thunderbolt 4 thing has been labeled and all the ground wires have been taped together and temporarily tied off to different things and marked as to what side and what bolt they ground to.

I thought about video taping the process but came to the conclusion that it is not that big of a deal to get it apart (had less parts than I thought)
All bolts are labeled and reinserted into block again, All brackets are coming off and going to be cleaned, sanded, primed and painted to match the block and heads with the custom paint.
A lot of new parts have already been purchased for this project and new bolts have been bought (new exhaust bolts, new intake bolts, new carb studs, ect)

My main question was what bolts do I undo to actually fork lift these suckers out of the compartment.

I might take a peek at the thru stringer bolts tonight and see if I can just crack them loose for now and undo them prior to forking these engines out.

Maybe an impact gun on the back two 3/4 bolts on the bell housing and the thru stringer bolts and im ready to heave Ho!!!

man this is nerve wracking!!!
Jason

You shouldnt need an impact on the rear engine mounts. They should not be very tight. They are tourqued down to a certain amount so you will not crush the floating type mounts in the bellhousing. When you lift the engine you will understand what Im saying. There should be a large fiber washer and a spring washer. The actuall mounts are pressed into the bellhousing.

Good luck, its not that big of a deal pulling a motor.

Ron

your on the right track. sounds like the first time I ever pulled a motor, if you do not un hook every thing you will be the first to know. when you put it back in put every thing back on the motors first. It is much easyer. next time they will come out easyer. and with high proformance boating there is always a next time. good luck.

your on the right track. sounds like the first time I ever pulled a motor, if you do not un hook every thing you will be the first to know. when you put it back in put every thing back on the motors first. It is much easyer. next time they will come out easyer. and with high proformance boating there is always a next time. good luck.:rolleyes:

those confound ground wires.
 

If you have room to come straight up with the motor far enough to clear the side motor mounts I wouldn't disturb the bolts to the stringer. I've had them restart differently than they were in origionally and strip the wood out. Then you have to replace them with longer or larger lags. A hint on those confoud ground wires is to count them while the motor is out and recount them when re-installing them. You allways seem to be working blind and backwards when you are putting them back on the back side of the flyweel housing.

I have seen the flyweel housing 3/4" bolts freeze up. I've had to break out the 1/2" impact with no extension just to get them out. Usually they aren't that bad.

Jason, on my 280 the lags had a piece of angle that was bolted to the stringer and kept the lags from backing out. I always ake the big nut off the studs then the two bolts off the back. The two motor mount nuts are no big deal because you will have to align anyways. The bolts on the bell have two nuts on the transom mount that can fall out so be sure not to loose them, all the nutsw I have seen are aluminum so be easy on assembly. Its an easy job to pull and dress the motors before you install them it will same a ton of time.
mike

flyweel pins
 

The pin, washer and spacer you need to pull out from the top, when you pull the motor there is a spring and composit washer sandwitched in the back. The nut is held in the gimbal by a slot and small shelf.