Scorpion rocker clatter
 

I just installed scorpion rockers and morel lifters on a bob m cam.

I can hear a little clatter with head in engine bay 2 feet away.

We did adjust while running..

Any recommendations, maybe a little more then 1/4 turn after noise goes away
Thanks

I have to put 1 full turn after zero lash on my morel lifters to quiet them. Anything less I get noise.

Blue: 1turn while adjusting running or not running

Not running. You spin each pushrod in your fingertips and tighten the rocker until slight resistance in the pushrod is felt. This is zero lash. Then go 1 full turn after that point.
Every lifter I ever set up was happy with 1/2-5/8 turn after zero lash but for some reason the morels insist on one full turn or else they are noisey. I have also had crappy rockers before that were noisey no matter what you did with the lifter preload.

I learned the same thing with Morel lifters.

Make sure you don't apply too much preload, or the result will be premature camshaft wear and lifter damage. Check on the lifter manufacturers Recommended preload.

Ok guys appreciated, I was worried about the lifters loosing pressure and collapsing, is there a way to prevent this or it shouldnt be a problem.

Just to share a little technical knowledge here. On most standard big block rocker arm valve trains each full turn down on fine thread rocker studs will compress the lifter plunger body about .040". Most hydraulic roller lifters and most hydraulic lifters have about .120" to .160" plunger travel machined into them. Pre-loading (compressing) the lifter plunger body will take about .030" to .050" to properly float the plunger and still have enough travel to handle valves and valve train energy and operation. Using to little pre-load will cause a noisier valve train and can actually cause possible lifter damage and excessive wear at high rpms when the lifter and valve train pieces can snap back and forth between the camshaft lobe and the and valve stem tip. For the same reasons to much pre-load can limit the travel of the lifter plunger to a point where some of the same damage can occur as well as possible uncontrolled valve action at high rpms.
I have always used the 3/4 -1 turn after REAL zero lash as a good safe point and most adjustments between 3/4 turn and 1.5 turns seem to work just fine.
Having said this though with a specialized lifter like Morel, you should follow the manufacturers recommendations.

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar

Appreciate it Ray... In order to keep lifters pressured up should i take spark plugs out and crank a little to get oil psi up

No, you will be able to feel zero lash. Particularly if the lifters have previously been run. New unpumped needs a lighter feel for just when the plunger starts to get loaded.

Ok Blue thanks, do you recommend doing the eo, ic method or tdc then 5pm turn and do both for that cylinder, since ill be in the compression and power stroke area??

Starting with cylinder 1 turn the crank until you see the intake valve close, then about 1/16-1/8 more turn of the crank. Then set both valves on cylinder 1. Then go to cylinder 3 and you will find you only need to turn the crank a small amount to have its intake valve just closing, then do cylinder three both valves. Continue 5,7,2,4,6,8 till all are set. Doing them in this order really cuts down on how much crank turning you have to do and makes it easy to keep track of where you are at.

This may work but it don't seem to me that it would be the most accurate way and the cyl. sequence don't seem to make sense either. 1/16 to 1/8 turn on the crank after the intake closes would not have the lifter anywhere near the lowest spot on the cam. I always set #1 cyl. in firing position or TDC. Check that the timing pointer is on zero. Then I adjust both valves on #1. Then I turn the crank 1/4 turn or 90 degrees and adjust both valves on the next cyl. in the firing order which would be #8. Then turn the crank another 1/4 turn and adjust both valves on the next cyl. in the firing order which would be #4. Continue the same way until all are done. 1 and 3/4 revolutions of the crank and your done. Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. This way you are approximately 1/2 revolution of the crank after the intake closes and approximately 1/2 revolution of the crank before the exhaust is going to open.

Been doing it that way for years and never missed a perfect valvetrain setup yet. You just need to make sure you are off the ramp. Do it enough and you will see how efficient this way is. But to each his own.

Bob m gave me a new firing order with the cam swap but not looking at paper work now.
Makes sense bc both valves are closed right inbetween compression and firing strokes...
Appreciate all the help as usual...