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Bravo Water Leak and Shift Problem

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Old 05-28-2002, 08:20 PM
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Default Bravo Water Leak and Shift Problem

More Bravo Issues:

Water Leak - I had a small leak when I put the boat in this year. It was definately coming in through the shift boot. I replaced the shift boot and the cable (10 yrs old and stiff). The shift boot is now dry but there is a tiny leak coming from the top near the steering arm. I assume it is coming from the pivot shaft attached to the steering arm but I have never taken apart a transom/gimbal assembly before. How bad is it. Should I hire a pro? How many hours?

Impossible to shift - On one drive it almost takes two hands to shift. The other is smooth as silk. It does not appear to be a cable issue. I think it may be in the drive. Any clues on where to look. The cables move freely when disconnected. Can they get stiff when loaded?

Thanks!

Steve
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Old 05-28-2002, 09:34 PM
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Steve,

There is a shift shaft going through the gimbal that has a seal that can leak,,, doesnt show very well on the parts breakdown either,,, we searched long and hard on a buddies boat to find/ repair this !!!

You either have to pull the engine or drill a hole in your gimbal to repair,,, where are you located at?

Shift problem could be in the cable going down to the drive also,, or in the shift assy located behing the inspection plate on your drive, or worse yet in the cone clutch assy.

Again,, where are you located, if your close to Chicago I can give you a hand,,, it's not as bad as it sounds,,, plus I already have all the tools if it's the steer shaft.
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Old 05-29-2002, 07:53 AM
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The boat is up at Winthrop Harbor. It is a 42 Baja and both problems are on the center drive (decent access to the transom plate from the inside).

What is the shift shaft and what does it do? I am only aware of the following items goint through:
U Joint Bellows - dry
Shift Cable - dry and brand new
Wires for Mercathode
Hoses for trim
Exhaust is capped off

Leak is coming from the very top of the drive near the steering tiller from the inside of the transom. I looked on the drawings but I did not see an O-ring or anything else to seal the steering shaft. How is it sealed?

The shifting problem is on the same drive but I believe the problems are unrelated. I just replaced the shift cable and bellows due to a small water leak at the bellows. The cable was stiff. The new cable did not solve the problem. The shift cables from the dash to the engine compartment move with the same force when disconnected from the shift plate on the engine. When I try to shift with my hand (engines running) the stiff one is definately harder, but not as hard as it seems from the driver's seat. It literally takes two hands at times. It's hard in forward and reverse.

I am thinking about switching the drives and see if the problem follows the drive.

Thanks!
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Old 05-29-2002, 04:04 PM
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You misread I think ,,,, my guess is the STEER shaft,,, the tiller you are talking about goes through the transom plate into the gimbal ring,,, there is a seal for that shaft that I dont believe is on a drawing ( found out the hard way ) This seal has to go in from the outside of the boat with the drive and gimbal ring removed !!!!!If you can get a wrench on the nut that hold the tiller shaft to the steer shaft you wont have to drill the holes ar pull the motor. Do you have a trailer for it? Dont know what your work scheduale is on Friday but it looks like I will be off, we can take a ride up there and look at it if you want. If not I will be boating this weekend, and also no big deal to shoot over there.

Dennis
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Old 05-30-2002, 12:03 AM
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Steve1,

Most likely it is the seal on the tiller post. It's very common with the center drive in triple installations as it's usually submerged when sitting. It's a a lousy seal, steel, and by the time you see it's bad, the area surrounding it is probably corroded. In some instances the entire part, not just the seal, must be replaced, ughh!

I just replaced mine after about 2 1/2 years and app. 300 running hours. I removed the drive and transom shield and took it to the Merc shop. SM Marine in Fort Lauderdale does my drive work. I believe the part was less than $10 and about a 2 hour labor charge to take it apart, clean up the area, and put it back together.

Once you've done this, be certain to use Corrosion Block or similar to lubricate the area on a regular basis in the future. On older Bravo drives there was a grease fitting on the outside for that purpose. They've done away with that on the later Bravo drives.

If you have further questions, call Tony San Marco at 954-764-1724. Good guy, straight shooter. The outdrive fellow at TNT in Miami also does a fine job and has developed a method to build up the corroded area and use a better seal than Merc provides. If you call TNT ask for Mike Thomas.

Good luck,

Steve
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Old 05-30-2002, 09:39 PM
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Thanks for the advice Steve and Dennis. I thought is was the steering shaft but I could not locate any seals on the drawings. There are two washers and the shaft??? I didn't see a seal anywhere???

Dennis - I will be out of town this weekend but I truly appreciate your offer to help. I may take you up on it. I am going to see if a dealer can take care of it early next week - if it is only going to be a few hours. I need the boat back together and hopefully shifting better by next weekend for the Smoke on the Water Poker Run. If they can't get it done I may ask for your help the following week or so.

Steve - I hope I don't have a corrosion issue. Freshwater only. Do you know of any good drive shops in the Chicago area by any chance? I would hate to be out of commission for 2 or 3 weeks sending the drive back and forth to Florida. In the cold North we only get about 12 good weeks a year.

Thanks again!

Steve
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Old 05-30-2002, 10:37 PM
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Dealer !!!! I'm better then any dealer !!! As far as driveshops,, no,,,, at least not until I get mine going !!!!!
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Old 05-31-2002, 01:45 AM
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Steve,

Mark Berman who owns BAM marine in Fort Lauderdale was formerly in the marine business in Chicago and could possibly advise you on a good shop there. I personally don't know of anyone in that market.

Sounds like Obnoxus is a good guy and willing to help. The actual removal of the drive isn't a tough challenge. It's just a bit overwhelming the first time. Once you've done it, you'll be comfortable.

Good luck!

Steve
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